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35's on a 95

Matt Vee

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Messages
164
Is it possible to put 35's on a 95 and if so what are the steps required.
Suspension lift size?
Minimum body lift requirement?
Is there availability of diff ring and pinions?
Can the drive train/steering take the extra forces?
Is there much advantage over 33's?
 
With your welding skills you probably could fit 35's as you have a suspension and body lift , a big offset wheel will help but you will probably still have to trim metal to make them fit , which then has you looking for wider arch flares .
I think the drivetrain could take it because you would render the truck gutless with regards to power .

I'd like to go 35's with mine and i might yet one day but my 1kz has a lot more grunt than Toyota put in it .

EDIT:- i had it in my head that Finiterex asked the question for some reason , he's the can do welder . But still it gives you some idea Matt of how its not a straight forward option for modification .
 
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Cool thanks.
I'm not aware of my truck having a suspension lift but I havn't measured it to see. It's deffo not got a body lift cleaning the tops of the rails pre-MOT this year was a bitch. Well I say that but I don't know how much of a gap these colorado's are meant to have between chassis and rails. It may well have previously had a suspension lift though as this truck seems to be disproportionately useful off road if it's stock height. Is this normal for 95's?

So 33 is the more realistic option then eh. Hmmm, might have to find an me 70 of some description, lol.
 
Lol, yes.
I seem to be converted. I was going to sell this and buy myself a Jimny to mod and play about on the rocks in but the more I do on this truck the more I appreciate it's design and manufacture.
But tbh if I do decide to go down the solid front axle path I will look for a 70 of some kind. Depends on how much articulation I can get out of the IFS once I have figured it all out properly.

The thing that is frustrating me is how little "stuff" you can get to mod a 95, I can see this turning into a full on fabrication project tbh and I'm not sure I can be arsed. Are these little trucks not very popular in the uk for actual off road use? I rekon they would make a really nice overlander if they cannot be made into an all out rock crawler.
 
Hey Matt.. My humble opinion... The 90 ain't a crawler. REALLY capable off roader and absolutely ideal as an over lander, but for crawling you need solid axles and much more clearance for bloody big tyres.

I'm going with 285/75/r16s on a zero offset 8 inch rim (from an 80), I think Shayne has a load of neg offset (-30?) for his 10 inch rims and 305s (correct me if wrong @Shayne).

75s are about the limit on a 2 inch body lift and tbh even if you then go 2 inch shocks (which I am) I doubt the drive shafts will handle anything more... Tbh that becomes the limiting factor with IFS.

You could SAS it but its a hell of an undertaking.

My suggestion... Keep the 95 as your over lander and towing rig... Buy a jimny or mk1 disco to covert to truggy crawler.

Oh and I'm no welder :) all that credit goes to me mate josh... He's the one fabbing my wife arches and everything else.
 
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Diff rings and pinions can be had from Milners and roughtrax BTW.
 
Oh and if you don't mind getting stuff from aus there's tons of bits.

Have you ditched your ARBs yet?
 
Lift wheels and tyres and your unlikely to be left behind in any group off road , Mark has been battering his 95 all over Morrocco for years and it still soldiers on , vastly underated i'd say and i'm 100% sure my swb 90 could go any place a Jimny will and more .
 
Regularly embarrasses the bigger cruisers as an overlander :) and I still run standard tyres. I’ll be switching to either 235/85/16 or 255/85/16 next I think.

Someone posted on one of the Facebook groups recently with a swb 90 on 35’s I think but no details of how
 
Regularly embarrasses the bigger cruisers as an overlander :) and I still run standard tyres. I’ll be switching to either 235/85/16 or 255/85/16 next I think.

Someone posted on one of the Facebook groups recently with a swb 90 on 35’s I think but no details of how

Doh just realised I meant 285/85/r16! Not 285/75/r16.
 
I'm sure my 285/75 R16 touched the chassis on full lock with zero offset 16x8's though not with any cause for concern , cooper stt muds were very close to an actual 33" i think , different brand name tyres showing the sae size might differ more than 2 inches in height using your own tape measure .
 
I'm sure my 285/75 R16 touched the chassis on full lock with zero offset 16x8's though not with any cause for concern , cooper stt muds were very close to an actual 33" i think , different brand name tyres showing the sae size might differ more than 2 inches in height using your own tape measure .
Thinking about adding 30mm spaces tbh
 
Try what you got first mate no 2 trucks are identical so with somethings its better to curb your spending and let evolution play a part . Spacers are easy added later .
 
Unless you're just going for the look, which is an awesome look, 35's over 33's don't really offer much of an advantage. If anything, it requires a fair bit work for not a lot of gain suspension wise. Unless you're making it a complete off road monster.
 
33's it is then and a Jimny at a later date, unless I can find a 70 that is, thanks dudes.
 
Someone posted on one of the Facebook groups recently with a swb 90 on 35’s I think but no details of how

That was me, if you want any more information on what I did to fit them just ask! I’m not saying it’s the correct way but it’s the way that worked for me mechanically and financially
 
35's aren't for me, I need a size I can get in the arse end of nowhere without a long wait.

Curious how you got round the driveshaft angles on the front though. I'm sure others would be interested in how you did it as well
 
Yeah they aren’t the easiest size to come across especially if your remote traveling !? I’m running a ~ 2.5” suspension lift, custom front springs I had made up and 80 series springs in the rear with 80 series shocks it gives adequate rear articulation and the front we’ll its an ifs for now (has anyone SAS’d one?) so nothing to exciting. Both ARB’s removed and I feel not required now. I made up my own diff drop kit to correct the cv angles, I’m not sure if you can buy kits ? I certainly couldn’t find any.
The fronts caught slightly on the factory mud guards and inner arch seam behind the plastic guard, I cut the seam and rewelded in a fillet to put the strength back in. I wasn’t sure about gearing with the 35s and I think it’s ok for the most part, I do have a set of 255/85/16s in my workshop I’m going to fit too compare.
 
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