80 rear winch bumper build

[Chris]

I know that you have all been gagging for some new build pictures on here, so I thought I'd make a rear winch bumper just to keep you all entertained.

I think that the basics concept is that I shall largely chop out the rear cross member and put the winch into a new custom cross piece built in its place. The winch will probably sit inside the bumper, in the main, rather then have it under the rear floor pan. I might keep the stock wheel carrier system if I can move it forward a few inches so that spare will still go under there. All subject to measuring at this point.

I have had a profile made in 3mm steel which won't be a load bearing part of the system necessarily. I shall have to build in a rear receiver location. I'd like to not have that as a tow bar but rather be built into the cross member. It will get profiled to fit under the rear tailgate just like the original aluminium decking does. Got to be careful as there is a spare wheel carrier to go on as well and there needs to be catches etc and I don't want those to land in the wrong place.

Here's an early picture of the pressed profile for you to ponder over. I think that some of this will be cut out to get to the winch and who knows, maybe even a step let in for reaching up to the roof tent. All to play for as they say.

Chris

 

[Matt Wright]

Bring it on! Keep us posted...

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Looking forward to seeing how this goes Chris I'm still a few weeks away from starting on mine. I'll be going for feet first on the back of the replacement cross member taking advantage of the extra height the body lift gets me there and have the rope exit from the top of the drum/towards the top of the cross member to keep it clear of tow ball etc.

 

[Chris]

I may go for an off set winch Jon. Doesn't have to be in the middle. It's an occasional use item anyway. I will see how much room is in there (when it stops pissing it down) and if there is enough I might leave the original in. I'd deff go feet first or sure. Even thought about putting the winch at 45 degrees across the other cross members under the floor pan with just the rope coming out through the hawse in the bumper. That way the rope would still be straight onto the drum. Just a thought. The strength would be good going across the chasiss leg and cross member if that makes sense.


Anyway steel yard closes for Christmas in 3 hours so I am off for another rummage!

Merry Christmas everyone.

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

It's an occasional use item anyway

Indeed, but thinking about the 2 times I've used the front one in anger a rear one would have been very useful to pull the back end round at the same time and I couldn't be bothered to get the hand winch out. That's my excuse anyway, as well as because we can of course I am still undecided about removing the existing cross member or working around it, either can be made to work but removal would be a cleaner solution. Sounds like you're having the same dilemma.

 

[Chris]

Sorted. Just picked up a massive piece of channel. Same size as X member. I can feel a graft coming on.

It's HUGE.

Chris

 

[Ben]

looking forward to seeing how you build the new bumper.

also looking forward to seeing how that idea you mentioned to me a few weeks ago comes out.

 

[Chris]

There's a lot to plan in this one Ben. Some chin scratching time. That's where the effort goes in. I have to marry up quite a few ideas and functions before I set to.

Hope it all comes off.


Chris

 

[Chris5-7chev]

MM lots of fellow cruiser people interested in your back end Chris so I'll have to show mine!
I'll go and get a new camera tommorrow, the husky winch rebuild was a pleasure but mounting the thing between those chassis rails will be something else indeed.
My current thinking is some very heavy wall aluminum section to build a frame that won't twist under load (1/2" thick ally angle),
and another tubular bumper affair similar to front end.
Chris you can post pics of my front end!! if you want and if you need a hyd. tube bender!? come and fetch it no problem.

 

[J66P]

interesting start Chris

Will keep my eyes peeled

 

[Chris]

Sure will do chaps. As I said earlier, there is some chin scratching to be done here. OK many have been before me - just look at the Frog's bumper. Very nice. But I don't have £550 for one. And if you think about it, all the Frog's one does is replace the existing bumper. It doesn't have any functionality at all other than high lift points.

Been thinking a bit and have decided that trying to work around the slightly odd rear cross member is pointless. If I chop that out it will create a perfect mount for the profile that I have had pressed. The rear cross member that I put in will fit up against the profile meaning that it has supreme strength.

However, rather then weld this new piece in, I'd like to make it as a separate piece which bolts into place. Welding is pretty permanent and not transferable.

One of the issues here is that the chassis rails are actually quite thin so I may need to build in anti crush sleeves to bolt through. All will be clearer once I have attacked it with the grinder. Jeeez, I hope so anyway. Gulp.


Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

If I cut the rear cross member off mine, which seems likely for the same reasons as you Chris, I'm going to weld the replacement cross member in place and it'll probably be an I beam or box section with the main face set about 25mm forward from the ends of the chassis rails and then a 3mm skin that bolts onto it that's the actual bumper. I did a bolt on cross member for my 80 and it was a lot more work for no real gain.

 

[Chris]

Sounds very similar Jon. Just aware that there isn't much to weld to. Unless I can make dihedral additional legs etc to brace and spread forces then I am aware that a simple plank welded across won't give the strength that I'd be looking for. The beam that I have isn't going to bend it's monster, but it can't just be welded in I don't think. The current arrangement isn't that thick, but it's complex. And that's its strength.

If I were to pull sideways, I'd be concerned about collapsing the ends of the legs if it were a simple hurdle arrangement.

I know that you'll be thinking exactly the same things as I am. Cos I have learned from you!

It's quite a width to span and actually offsetting the winch means it's closer to one rail which makes a difference in terms of (easier) strength perhaps.

I still have to look around under there and see what's what of course. Mine will have the 3mm skin over the outside too which is only cosmetic really. I would like to put the 'plank' across the ends of the chassis, cut and bend the wing ends from the same span to provide the internal support for the over-skin.

been practising vertical welding just in case I do decide to weld in place. No chance of tipping the truck on end I'm afraid.

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Sounds very similar Jon. Just aware that there isn't much to weld to.

My I beam plan would have some unequal angle welded to the ends that goes up the sides of the chassis rail and over the top and extends along the chassis rail however far seems appropriate. I'd seam weld it plus some rosette welds and that should spread the load well enough. I'd be going on top because I want to keep the bottom of the rail free for the tow bar otherwise the bottom would be easier to access for welding. I'll probably add some straps across the corners just for good measure

I'm tied up sorting a few things out on other peoples trucks for a few weeks before I can start mine so I'm looking forward to having time to pinch some of your ideas first

 

[Paul_Humphreys]

When I did my rear bumper. I welded a pieice of box section in before cutting the x-member off. I used 100x100x10mm box section. When I get around to it, I will drill and tap the box section and bumper and use a flat plate across the two for the winch mount.

Paul

 

[Chris]

Well had a good day at it and the weather stayed fine.

Here's what it looks like with the Barbie bumper removed

And after a session of slice and dice

Here's the outer fascia offered up after slitting for the rear quarters. Good fit so far.

Obviously there'll be lots of shaping to do eventually

This is what's is going in there - Jon hopefully you approve. It's quite solid.

This is 12mm plate bent to make brackets that will bolt into the tow bar mounts and with an extension, allow a 20mm bolt to go through the chassis rail horizontally.

These brackets will weld onto the channel and onto the fascia too giving considerable stiffness. The brackets will also be a mounting point for the end fences

I guess that this makes the bumper between the chassis ends 13mm! I'm no engineer, but damn that sounds good enough to me.

I have worked out the winch position but that's for another day. It will be offset as I said earlier, but not by much. I need to leave the middle position for the 50mm receiver. I shall put 4 captive bolt holes in the bumper so that a variety of things can be bolted on. As the channel is being mounted flat side into the bumper, there is a handy space for various bolts or receiver tubes to go into. There won't be a standard towbar - bar. I have had enough of ploughing with the last one. If I want to tow a trailer I shall have a drop plate that bolts in. Type approval? Blah blah yadda yadda - not listening. it's a recovery point.

Nice to get the old stick welder out today to fill in the gap where I slit and bent the brackets. Ahh, I've still got it folks.

Chris

 

[silvercruiser]

looking good to me Chris.



Joe

 

[Paul_Humphreys]

Looks like the same size channel as I used . It will stop another 80 series without bending .

Paul

 

[Paul_Humphreys]

Just to add Chris, there is enough room to fit the letter box hole for the winch rope and the 2" reciver hole in the surface.

Paul

 

[Chris5-7chev]

A good days progress there Chris, you're flying along and good photo's as usual.