Looking good Chris, that should turn out strong enough 
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80 rear winch bumper build
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J66P
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Chris, might seem a silly question but why have you gone for such a vast I beam section ?? obviously you have a fabrication shop that can do pressings for you surely thye could have knock you something up that was way lighter but just as strong 
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J66P said:Chris, might seem a silly question but why have you gone for such a vast I beam section ?? obviously you have a fabrication shop that can do pressings for you surely thye could have knock you something up that was way lighter but just as strong
Have you seen the way he drives!!!!!!
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Why do you think mine is made out of something that thick!!! If I remember right, as it is channel, mine goes from 8mm at the thinnest to 12mm thick as the bends!!.
Paul
Paul
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Chris5-7chev
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Chris, appologies spent 6 hours trying to post a picture but didn't know where to practice so its ended up here, its my version
of the beginnings of an 80 rear winch mount so is sort of applicable.
of the beginnings of an 80 rear winch mount so is sort of applicable.
Err, because it's having a rear winch in it? That's the point of the thread. Don't think a pressed section of 3mm is quite up to the job. A winch tray is usually 6 mm min. And to span a gap of 1600 mm it has to be quite strong. The section that came out was pretty complex and made up of all sorts of pieces pressed and folded - all to just hang a bumper on.
To replace that, a single piece needs to be this sort of size. I wouldn't want to hang 3 tonnes off anything less.
But more than that, why would I have someone make something up for me? I might as well just buy a shop one. Bit surprised you ask given my history.
What do you mean 'Have you seen the way he drives' I'm probably about the slowest most calculating off roader there is!
Chris
To replace that, a single piece needs to be this sort of size. I wouldn't want to hang 3 tonnes off anything less.
But more than that, why would I have someone make something up for me? I might as well just buy a shop one. Bit surprised you ask given my history.
What do you mean 'Have you seen the way he drives' I'm probably about the slowest most calculating off roader there is!
Chris
silvercruiser
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Chris said:What do you mean 'Have you seen the way he drives' I'm probably about the slowest most calculating off roader there is!
Chris
Im sure if little blue could talk it would have something to say
joe
As someone who makes stuff too, I know that you'll appreciate the design time that goes into something like this. Having bits made is something that I don't really have time to get into. I'd actually have to have a finished design in mind. As this is a combined protection system, a rear receiver, a wheel carrier and a winch mount, I don't have the wit to pull all that together in one go. I don't actually quite understand what you mean by 'vast section'. But as I said before, it has to be strong so that it doesn't bend when I winch from it. The original was all fancy perforations and the like but not conducive to attaching a winch to. The reason that I selected this particular piece of channel was simply that this is what I found in the rummage bin at the local steel stockholder. I didn't order it specially. Everything I make, I make from scrap out of the garage. That's part of the challenge.
If like you I were to make things for production runs - sliders and winch mounts etc, I simply wouldn't do it like this. This is when people come to me and say would you make me one, I say nope. Too much work. And it is!
I have to go with what I have got. Until I get my plasma, cutting and shaping steel is very hard so any design has to bear that in mind too. My front bumper was a thinner ighter design, and I have bent that several times trying to get up steep banks etc. I'm not bending this one!!!
Chris
If like you I were to make things for production runs - sliders and winch mounts etc, I simply wouldn't do it like this. This is when people come to me and say would you make me one, I say nope. Too much work. And it is!
I have to go with what I have got. Until I get my plasma, cutting and shaping steel is very hard so any design has to bear that in mind too. My front bumper was a thinner ighter design, and I have bent that several times trying to get up steep banks etc. I'm not bending this one!!!
Chris
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Chris said:
I have a 2nd hand plasma cutter here, I have never used it. If your down this way and want to borrow it your more than welcome.
Paul
Paul, that's mighty neighbourly, but it's a long way to come to borrow a cutter. I shall order one from Weldequip for delivery early new year. They have a good one with excellent warranty and support. There's £50 cash back on it too at the moment.
Spent all day battling ailing equipment. The pillar drill has all but given up the ghost. New one on the cards for next week in the VAT orgy at MM. Still, pretty much millimetre perfect today. Just need the rain to stop pouring. Cross member is lined up. 20mm cross bolts and 4 x 12 mm into the chassis so far.
Going to get the number plate (oblong not square) on the LHS so it doesn't have to go on the spare wheel.
Air points of course and towbar wiring. I have already drilled 4 standard spaced holes in the beam so that I can bolt on any accessories that I want. Winch will be just off centre on the right. Dunno if I will bother with HL jacking points yet.
Now that I have fixed 12 mm plates against the ends of the rails, I will be able to weld on the insides for the bumper wings. Once bent and trimmed I want to come around the sides of the rear quarters like my old bumperettes did, to give side impact protection. I found them to be very effective when driving in deep trenches etc.
Chris
Spent all day battling ailing equipment. The pillar drill has all but given up the ghost. New one on the cards for next week in the VAT orgy at MM. Still, pretty much millimetre perfect today. Just need the rain to stop pouring. Cross member is lined up. 20mm cross bolts and 4 x 12 mm into the chassis so far.
Going to get the number plate (oblong not square) on the LHS so it doesn't have to go on the spare wheel.
Air points of course and towbar wiring. I have already drilled 4 standard spaced holes in the beam so that I can bolt on any accessories that I want. Winch will be just off centre on the right. Dunno if I will bother with HL jacking points yet.
Now that I have fixed 12 mm plates against the ends of the rails, I will be able to weld on the insides for the bumper wings. Once bent and trimmed I want to come around the sides of the rear quarters like my old bumperettes did, to give side impact protection. I found them to be very effective when driving in deep trenches etc.
Chris
Been a productive morning really.
Put in some new thicker captive nuts so that I can really wind them up tight and some 3mm wall anti crush tubes in the box section.
Put a plate on the other side of the box too although not really necessary with the crush tubes in there
But hit a snag with the winch position. The gear box end and motor end are actually different lengths so in order to not hit the centre of the cross member where the tow hitch etc will go, I have had to rethink, spin the winch upside down and shift it to the near side. Well, I suppose it's going to be a sensible counterbalance for the spare wheel on the other side. It does affect some other minor design attributes but not much.
The outer skin now sits totally on the cross member and the top of the brackets. Starting to feel reassuringly solid. Cross member now tacked into the brackets.
Next job is to cut out the cable slot. I have thought about having a hawse inside and outside. But I shall look at that later. Normally the rope slot is lined up with the bottom feet as the rope comes off the drum on one side. With this design, that wasn't really possible so the slot is more central. Having looked at the angles it's no more work on the rope than you'd get across the full diameter of the winch drum from full to empty - just in reverse; so I'm cool with that.
Chris
Put in some new thicker captive nuts so that I can really wind them up tight and some 3mm wall anti crush tubes in the box section.
Put a plate on the other side of the box too although not really necessary with the crush tubes in there
But hit a snag with the winch position. The gear box end and motor end are actually different lengths so in order to not hit the centre of the cross member where the tow hitch etc will go, I have had to rethink, spin the winch upside down and shift it to the near side. Well, I suppose it's going to be a sensible counterbalance for the spare wheel on the other side. It does affect some other minor design attributes but not much.
The outer skin now sits totally on the cross member and the top of the brackets. Starting to feel reassuringly solid. Cross member now tacked into the brackets.
Next job is to cut out the cable slot. I have thought about having a hawse inside and outside. But I shall look at that later. Normally the rope slot is lined up with the bottom feet as the rope comes off the drum on one side. With this design, that wasn't really possible so the slot is more central. Having looked at the angles it's no more work on the rope than you'd get across the full diameter of the winch drum from full to empty - just in reverse; so I'm cool with that.
Chris
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Chris, if you look for the pictures of my rear winch mount/bumper. I have the letter box on the middle of the bumper and there is enough room to put a 2" reciver in above it.
Paul
Edit to add, looking at the 2 pictures. You channel does not look as deep as mine.
Paul
Edit to add, looking at the 2 pictures. You channel does not look as deep as mine.
Which is exactly why I haven't put mine in the middle Paul 
My winch is mounting directly onto the channel, not somewhere under the floor. I am keeping the std spare wheel space so that I can simply unbolt the winch if necessary and put the spare up there. Or a second spare. I have a receiver sled that the winch will sit on if I needed it, but you can't drive around like that, it's like a picnic table on the bumper and would get ripped off in a steep bank. Hence going for this mod. But the reason that I don't want a deeper channel is that I am trying to shave height off the departure angle. Now Gav has gone extreme - he's chopped his out completely. But as I have a roof tent, having a bumper is a very handy thing to stand on when packing it away so I have kept the step.
It's OK there. Not a problem. I already had pics of yours Paul that I took at Lincomb a couple of years ago.
I have a library of other people's work!
Chris
My winch is mounting directly onto the channel, not somewhere under the floor. I am keeping the std spare wheel space so that I can simply unbolt the winch if necessary and put the spare up there. Or a second spare. I have a receiver sled that the winch will sit on if I needed it, but you can't drive around like that, it's like a picnic table on the bumper and would get ripped off in a steep bank. Hence going for this mod. But the reason that I don't want a deeper channel is that I am trying to shave height off the departure angle. Now Gav has gone extreme - he's chopped his out completely. But as I have a roof tent, having a bumper is a very handy thing to stand on when packing it away so I have kept the step.
It's OK there. Not a problem. I already had pics of yours Paul that I took at Lincomb a couple of years ago.
I have a library of other people's work!Chris
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I through you had some pictures, but was not sure. I have been out and the channel I used is 150mm deep. How deep is the one you have? As it cannot be that far off as it fits over the chassis rails.
Paul
Paul
Today's thrilling instalment.
Got a mate with plasma to cut out the rope hole in the bumper. Great to have mates like that. I mean mates with tools that you need.
Got the x member welded up and the winch points added. Offered up and bolted in place. Got some nice long HT cap heads to go into the chassis rails and pig tails.
In all it's pretty slim. I rotated the freespool lever so I can reach it more easily.
Here's some shots in the rain.
The cable will reach the aux batter from this position.
I have ordered another hawse to go on the inside so that the rope gets looked after on sideways pulls. Maybe not necessary, but prudent looking inside.
Have also ordered my own plasma Yay! An IPF Cut 40 roll on next week.
Chris
Got a mate with plasma to cut out the rope hole in the bumper. Great to have mates like that. I mean mates with tools that you need.
Got the x member welded up and the winch points added. Offered up and bolted in place. Got some nice long HT cap heads to go into the chassis rails and pig tails.
In all it's pretty slim. I rotated the freespool lever so I can reach it more easily.
Here's some shots in the rain.
The cable will reach the aux batter from this position.
I have ordered another hawse to go on the inside so that the rope gets looked after on sideways pulls. Maybe not necessary, but prudent looking inside.
Have also ordered my own plasma Yay! An IPF Cut 40 roll on next week.
Chris
Red Oktober
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Looks great so far Chris 
