90 series rocksliders build

AndyCook

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Starting a thread to follow the progress of building some rocksliders for my 90 series Colorado.

Will post photos later.

Progress so far: have cut some of the 100x6mm flat-steel into twelve footplates, measuring 160mm long.
and have started drilling two 12mm holes into each of the plates. One hole at bottom to go under the chassis rail, and another 90mm from bottom (70mm from top) for a bolt to go through existing hole in center of chassis.

I first drilled with two plates stacked, then 5 stacked in a drillvice, using a workbench drill. made the job easier, got 5 more plates to drill tonight.

So I will have 3 chassis mounting points on the chassis for slider. With plate on each side, sandwiched by a bolt at bottom and middle of the chassis rail.
Have ordered a few more 12mm bolts (100 and 110mm long) as I am a few short.

I am building the sliders and the struts connecting slider to chassis plates with 50x4mm box.
and tree-fenders with same.

So next step is to measure the support legs, and think about where they will fit on the foot-plates, I may need to weld a nut in the central holes, as the box may fit over the hole... as i don't have a tap-die set.
Chris - when you made yours for lil'blue did you weld a nut or tap a thread in the plate?

I believe the 90-series chassis is nearly parallel to the body? but possible taper near the front? so i need to watch out for that

pics to follow
 

AndyCook

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finished the drilling 12mm holes in the chassis plates,

stack of plates
1.jpg


in drill-vice and drilling more holes
2.jpg


all 12 plates done
3.jpg


now, I am thinking of where to put the main slider (which is narrower than what others have normally used on here)
is it best right under middle of sill, where there is a vertical strip of metal hanging down, or further out.
Bear in mind i will have a second piece same sized of box further out as a tree-fender and impact bar for inconsiderate people opening their car doors into my LC body panels!!

so picture (A) below is under the vertical strip
4.jpg


and next one (B) if further outboard - so where is ideal position!? look forward to feedback

5.jpg



andy
 

silvercruiser

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Hello Andy im glad your doing this as i want to make some for my l/c when i get some time. with regards to the positioning i would put then out a bit, like picture B but this is just my personal preference but the more experienced may have a different view/idea.

Joe
 
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Jon Wildsmith

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I would avoid A or your sliders will have to sit quite low to stop them knocking on that seam when everything flexes. B or a bit nearer that seam means at least if they're a bit too close you'll only have to 'adjust' the seam where the legs pass under it and not the whole length :)
 

AndyCook

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well, been delayed for a few days - my cutting disc became blunt, so ordered a couple new ones.
meanwhile i used a slit-disc on angle grinder to cut the lower corners off he foot-plates.
tonight I cut last of the "legs", and tack welded them to foot plates, and started the main welds.

welding is still a bit ropey, but now and again getting a good section of weld

a "leg" tack welded to a foot plate
7.jpg


legs lined up!
6.jpg


waiting for longer bolts to arrive in post, then i will fit the legs to the chassis temporarily, and mount a cut main slider bar to them, and support/tie it to chassis and tack weld it onto the legs
 

AndyCook

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thanks J66P - i already have a link saved for your build report and photos - on the other site! one of the guides which inspired me to give it a go!
cheers!
Andy
 

AndyCook

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Done some more cutting and welding in my lunch-break

Good weld and bad weld.... now why can't I get a bead like the "lower" one on that gusset everytime...
8.jpg


Slider on vehicle, after being supported by two jacks and tack-welded onto the support arms
9.jpg


support arms & slider on vehicle
10.jpg


slider
11.jpg


slider - different angle to show gussets
12.jpg


next to add a another 50mm box, offset 50mm out from slider as a tree fender
 

Chris

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Well, Andy I would say that you might clean the metal off a bit more first. As you are welding into a corner, it's not always easy to get in there and get a good grind. Plus, your 'nice' weld looks very flat as though you have good penetration, wire speed and speed of travel. The other weld looks like you don't have any penetration and the weld puddle is just sitting on top. Much of this can depend on your body position. If you face two different welds, then move yourself. Don't try to weld them standing in the same place. The wire needs to be aimed as though you are trying to push it through the metal. You may have been a bit flat there and the wire has effectively bounced off. Now, I am assuming that it's MIG due to the spatter and other marks, but the good weld does actually look more like stick. On the not so good weld, I would have done a side to side wiggle to get more heat into the weld puddle but still be keeping the tip moving so that the weld doesn't pile up.
Sorry if that is egg sucking, but you did ask. Also, worth getting some anti spatter spray. Makes a tidier job.


Chris
 

Chris

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Yes the weld at the bottom looked like stick but the other looked more mig like. Hmm, not so important to clean up the metal with a stick. They aren't as fussy. You've a nice looking pattern going on there with the good one. See the waves in it? There isn't any pattern in the other err' blob'. Still wonder if positional set up was the issue with the other. Sometimes I will do a dry run with the power off just to see how I feel. It does look as though you were bumping around there causing the tip to jiggle. I keep half rods here and there for when I have to do something a little trickier. Easier to get a good feel when you've only half a rod. Doing a scratch start with a full rod can be a bit hit and miss especially if the run is only an inch long. What size rods are you running and what amps did you have on there. I'd be wanting something like a 3.2mm at least to get the fill and probably 90 - 100 amps min. If you're aiming at decent thickness metal then I'd whack even more into it. Obviously I don't know your set. As much as the rod will stand really. As I said earlier in order to keep moving but not build up, I would do a side to side wiggle on that. Your other weld is the classic sort of back and forth wave formation. Try a zig zag in a gusset situation.

Chris
 

AndyCook

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Yes the sticks are 3.2mm and i am shoving about 120 amps into them, cannot remember exact figure, +/-10 possibly on that
I have been trying to do side-side wiggles and zig-zags as i move along. i think maybe I might have the arc a bit long.
I intend to grind out the rubbish welds and re-do them.

good tip on half-sticks - i remember now reading that on a welding forum - i will go that today.

thanks again for tips - I don't intend to do any welding up towbars/bumpers with this welding or welder.
 

AndyCook

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well the tips really helped - I produced some great welds on flat joins between the box section, i used grinder to bevel the edges into a V first.
but still having problems with right-angle welds...struggle to get a wider weld in their, so having to make several passes
 

AndyCook

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a better weld on flat joint (i cut V with angle grinder at joint first)

13.jpg


and another

14.jpg


one slider nearly done - i have added a centre pillar brace between the two main bars
second slider now tack welded together, will then go over bad welds and grind and reweld them, hopefully i will get better at welding right-angle joints by then....

15.jpg
 

Chris

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Andy, good news, but here is something I forgot to say. When welding into an angle like that, I find a huge difference if I tilt the work so that the join is at the bottom and the sides are at equal angles to the vertical. Instead of welding like it was skirting board, weld like it was the keel of a boat if that makes sense. Dunno why but to me it make a world of difference.

Chris
 

AndyCook

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cheers Chris

i have been tilting the metalwork in that way, as i figured out by trial and error that it held a lot!
but still getting weld beam going to one side or other....and not spreading into the "V" properly

practice-practice i guess...
 

Chris

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Put a MIG on your Christmas list then :clap: :clap: :dance:


Can't really explain that. A lot of this is technique and positioning. As MMA is a consumable electrode which by its nature gets shorter as you weld, you arc, angle, tip movement etc all change every second. If you keep your arm still simply pivoting at the wrist, the tip attitude will change relative to the workpiece. ie the angle gets steeper and the weld puddle will change. If you slide your elbow back then you can keep it all constant. I found that welding face on, I ran out of movement when my elbow hit my chest. So now I weld side on drawing my arm across my chest like drawing a bow. Your welds look good so clearly you have it mostly there. How's the slag? Is it peeling off by itself in a shell? You know that you've arrived then!

Chris
 
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