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After change batteries car won’t start

If its anything like my 100, you have to use the master key, disconnected the battery for a moment, then reconnect, then put the key in and turn somthe ignition is on for 6 min.
Then turn off ignition, then start.
 
Today i called to car services but they haven't intelligent tester for my land cruiser . Idea above about 6 minutes not working . I will be calling to other car services and we will see
 
I'm still confused why Techstream doesn''t work! Have you got anything at all to talk to it over the OBD port?

When you tried to reset the immobiliser by shorting out the OBD pins, did you get all the dashboard lights flashing etc? That would at least be some sign of life.

I think the service manual may have a way of reading the flash codes by shorting the OBD pins, and counting the flashes on the check-engine light. Might be something to look into if you can't get anything else to talk.

After that as others have said, I'd start checking the signals on the ECU - check its got power, good ground and is giving off some reasonable signals - you can probably start with a multimeter (at least to see if there is any sign of life) but will need some sort of scope to look at the signals in more detail.
 
Yes lights flashed after shorting pins. I will check the ground , maybe it’s clue
 
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I don’t have the service manual .
I noticed that not all of lights flashing . Only abs and Vrc off and airbags .
 
Yes after turn the key to start engine , check engine flashing but when i'm shorting obd pins check is not flashing
 
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Have you got the service manual now, and following the procedure in there to read the codes? Page 05-431 on my copy.

Ignition needs to be on before you short the pins - 4 and 13.

To make sure it has a code, try and start it first let it fail. Then turn ignition off, then on and short the pins.

If you don't see any check engine light, I'm guessing it hasn't recorded a code or the ECU is buggered....
 
I mentioned this problem tonight to my brother while we were talking on whatsapp as he lives in the UK who has for 45 years been a electrician , including industrial , and electronic engineer fixing and modifying industrial machinery and A/C and lifts electrics and electronics for factory's , and does commercial and industrial electric inspections , and also works on auto electrical problems , and he firmly believes you have blown the fusible link to the positive , and probably done by disconnecting and connecting the positive first and connecting them last , and thats why he says your techstream is not connecting to the ECU , another symptom of the fusible link is blown is when no engine warning lamp lights up when you turn on the ignition , he says it is a 100amp module usually found at the side of or in the fusebox in the engine bay . your systems with the non starting and central locking problems point to the fusible link blown that blocking communication with the ECU hence no link working with the techstream . sorry its late news maybe I should have asked him earlier and save you the time and non starting of your 120
 
Could be the answer Tony. Karl and I discussed that a few weeks ago, and I looked in the handbook.
A fusible link is mentioned, and says where, a box beside the engine bay fuse box, when I looked it was empty, so couldn't shed any further light on it. Maybe different models, dunno?
 
Hi Tractionman sorry I did not see your reply till this morning , we are 2 hours in front here and I had gone to bed by the time you made your comment , I rung my brother this morning on where the fusible will be and he thinks there is a good chance it is under the engine fuse box , sounds a strange place to be I told him , but he said if its not at the side outside the engine fuse box or in the side inside the engine fuse box its got to to be under the engine fuse box , so removable of the engine fusebox is needed , he said it will/should be quite easy to remove/detach so as to be able to check the fusible link .
 
All good Tony, sounds about right, they've hidden it.
For the benefit of Teros, if he comes back, there is a black plastic box to the rear of engine bay fuse box, and another to the side. I looked in both, as they were in the general area of where the fusible link should be, and they were both empty. Logic says it must be in the area of the main fuse box, so underneath looks favourite.
As you say, an easy area to get at, just over n/s wing.
With the link knocked out, interrupting power to ecu, it may explain why Teros was unable to get diesel
to/through the pump early on, as well.
He seems to have dropped off the radar of late, with no response to Karl's last two posts, let's hope he comes back so he can hopefully confirm the situation, as your post, and give us all feedback/knowledge.
 
I've been looking through the parts diagram on Partsouq and I'm not seeing anything like a fusible link of the type that we see on other LC's.

I thinking that on the 120 the term 'fusible link' is used for fuses of type B/C/D (page 392 in my manual) as opposed to 'normal' type A fuses. See attached pics.

So I think all these are in the main fuse box in the engine bay. In theory you should be able to look through a clear window at the top of them and see if they're OK. I always like to do a quick test on all the type A fuses with a multimeter but I dont think there are any such testing points on B/C/D.

Fuse 62 is a 30Amp for STARTER SYSTEM / IGN - I'd have a check there first!


Have a look at that link - I think the empty boxes are for relays for optional equipment that we haven't all got - eg air suspension.
 

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Good info Karl.
O.P. said in an early post, he had checked fuses. Didn't say if just a visual or not, would be worth going back again for the little time it takes, removing each one and test as you suggested with meter. On my fusebox there is no 'window', so the top has to come off, which is a bit fiddly, the clips being stiff. As the box is raised off the inner wing, perhaps a look with a mirror, or phone pic, to ensure there is nothing underneath, if removal is not necessary.
 
Good info Karl.
O.P. said in an early post, he had checked fuses. Didn't say if just a visual or not, would be worth going back again for the little time it takes, removing each one and test as you suggested with meter.

Totally agree mate. Should be able to test the type A ones without even removing, by just using the exposed pins on the top of each fuse.

On my fusebox there is no 'window', so the top has to come off, which is a bit fiddly, the clips being stiff. As the box is raised off the inner wing, perhaps a look with a mirror, or phone pic, to ensure there is nothing underneath, if removal is not necessary.

Clips seem a bit stiff on all these - I dont think being in an engine bay for 15 years helps!!!

Sorry mate - I wasn't clear there - I meant a window on the top of each B/C/D fuse rather than the box itself!
 
Not great pics, but in practice I think you'd be able to see if one was blown!
 

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Yeh those clips. at first it looks like the lid unclips from close to the n/s battery and hinges upwards towards the windscreen. In reality they unclip as said, then 'unhook'at the rear that I mistook for a hinge. Caution is called for here, as you said 15yrs young and stiff could turn to snap.
Yeh you could deffo see those in your pics, if blown. When investigating fuse problems, in the absence of testing, I always tend to remove/rotate to make sure there is direct contact, been caught before with dodgy contact.
 
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