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Bad ending to my holiday week
- Thread starter clivehorridge
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2010
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Hi Clive
Pity you're not in this country as we'd have you back on the road in 20 secs............well 20 weeks at least.
It could be the external linkage but if that fell off you would have a very sloppy lever with massive fore and aft movement. Still might be something to do with it though.
I also had a Riley 1.5 which fell apart with rust.
My brother has Pat Moss's ex works Renault Alpine. The factory told her to keep the car after an event abroad so she just drove it back to her house and kept it. No paperwork in those days.
Pity you're not in this country as we'd have you back on the road in 20 secs............well 20 weeks at least.
It could be the external linkage but if that fell off you would have a very sloppy lever with massive fore and aft movement. Still might be something to do with it though.
I also had a Riley 1.5 which fell apart with rust.
My brother has Pat Moss's ex works Renault Alpine. The factory told her to keep the car after an event abroad so she just drove it back to her house and kept it. No paperwork in those days.
Thanks Gary, and Nick, the old girl is in the workshop now, hoping for a good prognosis
Frank, lucky brother of yours, that's a piece of history to anyone interested!
The lever doesn't feel sloppy, which doesn't sound so good then....
I can feel it engage in low as usual, neutral position feels positive and when I select high, there's no indication of anything wrong, it just doesn't receive drive from the gearbox.
My worry is a broken shaft or sprocket inside, which may be very expensive. There's little chance of a s/h replacement here, which is sad.
We'll see when I get my phone all from the doctor.... Later.
Chas
Well-Known Member
We'll see when I get my phone all from the doctor.... Later.
Fingers crossed for you Clive.
Fingers crossed for you Clive.
Cheers Chas, no phonecall after 5 hours in service, that's not good news in my book...
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froggy Steve
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anything yet?
Nah, either they've been too busy to get to it yet (hope) or it's bad news and they're trying to find out quite how bad.
One of the few times when no news is not necessarily good news.
I'm off to Istanbul tomorrow morning till Friday, so I'm going to try to forget about it till I get back.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
One of the few times when no news is not necessarily good news.
I'm off to Istanbul tomorrow morning till Friday, so I'm going to try to forget about it till I get back.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
Chas
Well-Known Member
Bringing back some Turkish delight.
I don't think my missus would approve... Oh, the sweets? Yep probably, for the office I guess, been so many times Aura is sick of it!
Im in the airport now, geez it's hot in here. Why can't they do better with AC in a building like this? Really pees me off! Rant rant.
Newsflash!
Phonecall received....
The good news, nothing wrong with the transfer box
The bad news, it's a broken driveshaft at the diff end on the passenger side (its a LHD)
They're going to quote me soon. Of course, I now have the decision to make as to whether to replace the CV's while they're in there. They are 7 years old and the answer will probably be yes, which would be logical.
Better phone the bank manager up....
10 days for parts to arrive, so in 2 weeks she should be up and running!
Phonecall received....
The good news, nothing wrong with the transfer box
The bad news, it's a broken driveshaft at the diff end on the passenger side (its a LHD)
They're going to quote me soon. Of course, I now have the decision to make as to whether to replace the CV's while they're in there. They are 7 years old and the answer will probably be yes, which would be logical.
Better phone the bank manager up....
10 days for parts to arrive, so in 2 weeks she should be up and running!
I'm with Ian Rubie. If you have broken a shaft, cv or drive flange you will loose drive unless you locked the centre diff. In low range it automatically locks the centre diff for you. I'm a newbie to LCs but on a Landie 99.9% of the time it's a broken shaft. To be fair the shafts are quite meaty but everything fatigues eventually especially if you put stress on it in reverse. I suspects it's going to be an easy fix. Even replacing a TC isn't hard and Karl et al will sort you out with parts.Fingers crossed you get a (cheap and quick) result Clive.
I swear your post wasn't showing when I posted mine. At least Ian and I were right (cue smug feeling).
Its one hundred percent unnecessary to replace cvs just because your popped a shaft Clive. Again my frame of reference is defenders but we would carry them as spares. Unless you were running Ashcroft shafts you were more likely to break a shaft than get a puncture if you were running aggressive tyres. Replace. Carrying driving. Don't worry.
Check the drive flanges aren't worn but they are cheap and no extra labour if you are changing a shaft.
cheers.
Its one hundred percent unnecessary to replace cvs just because your popped a shaft Clive. Again my frame of reference is defenders but we would carry them as spares. Unless you were running Ashcroft shafts you were more likely to break a shaft than get a puncture if you were running aggressive tyres. Replace. Carrying driving. Don't worry.
Check the drive flanges aren't worn but they are cheap and no extra labour if you are changing a shaft.
cheers.
Don't say that Chas or he will be buying a complete new transmission as well as CVs 
Driving half on the road and half on the verge would have allowed it to shrug off any wind up. If the t-case was going to blow up it would have done it by now i would suggest.
So thinking about this you should take the prop off (front or rear as appropriate), remove the broken halfshaft (or diff) and lock the centre diff to get some drive. I believe, although it would be good if someone could confirm it, that the hazard light switch is the same plug as the CDL switch which we didn't get in this country. However, the wiring is there behind the blanking plate. Therefore, pop the blanking plate off and plug the hazard light switch into the multi-plug and the centre diff lock light should come on when you 'turn on your hazards' so to speak. It might sound involved if you've never done it but its not harder that changing a tyre if you take it nut by nut.
I hope that is correct because its my plan for when i break a shaft/prop/diff.
Driving half on the road and half on the verge would have allowed it to shrug off any wind up. If the t-case was going to blow up it would have done it by now i would suggest.
So thinking about this you should take the prop off (front or rear as appropriate), remove the broken halfshaft (or diff) and lock the centre diff to get some drive. I believe, although it would be good if someone could confirm it, that the hazard light switch is the same plug as the CDL switch which we didn't get in this country. However, the wiring is there behind the blanking plate. Therefore, pop the blanking plate off and plug the hazard light switch into the multi-plug and the centre diff lock light should come on when you 'turn on your hazards' so to speak. It might sound involved if you've never done it but its not harder that changing a tyre if you take it nut by nut.
I hope that is correct because its my plan for when i break a shaft/prop/diff.
Well, thanks for all the posts guys!
I don't know why I didn't think it was a driveshaft in the first place.
It's a matter of psychology I suppose, move a lever, nothing happens, must be a fault at the end of the lever. Short-sighted, but that's human nature!
As soon as the guy told me the light came on
so to speak, it all fell into place in my head.
As for driving home, given that it was the shaft that was broken, there was nothing to get wound up by having the CDL on. If it had not been a broken shaft then there was potential, which is why I made efforts to keep one side of the truck in the "marbles" or on the grass.
Sadly, I wasn't clever enough to know how to disconnect the auto CDL in Low, because if I had done that I would have known straight away that it was a broken shaft. (it wouldn't have driven at all with the CD open).
Anyway, it's all good news, as it turns out.
My concern about the CVs is not shaft related at all, just that they're 7 years and 180k kms old, and the guy has the whole front axle stripped down at the moment. On full lock, the passenger side was starting to click, so I think I'll change them as a matter of course.
The shafts themselves were renewed 7 years ago too, and I'm surprised one broke, but I guess it's not an age related failure.
We put these trucks to the extreme of their ability sometimes, because they're so good at it! It comes as a surprise when they eventually fail.
All's well that ends well, I say.... not quite ended yet, but it soon will be.... Thanks for all your encouragement! 
I don't know why I didn't think it was a driveshaft in the first place.
It's a matter of psychology I suppose, move a lever, nothing happens, must be a fault at the end of the lever. Short-sighted, but that's human nature!
As soon as the guy told me the light came on
so to speak, it all fell into place in my head.As for driving home, given that it was the shaft that was broken, there was nothing to get wound up by having the CDL on. If it had not been a broken shaft then there was potential, which is why I made efforts to keep one side of the truck in the "marbles" or on the grass.
Sadly, I wasn't clever enough to know how to disconnect the auto CDL in Low, because if I had done that I would have known straight away that it was a broken shaft. (it wouldn't have driven at all with the CD open).
Anyway, it's all good news, as it turns out.
My concern about the CVs is not shaft related at all, just that they're 7 years and 180k kms old, and the guy has the whole front axle stripped down at the moment. On full lock, the passenger side was starting to click, so I think I'll change them as a matter of course.
The shafts themselves were renewed 7 years ago too, and I'm surprised one broke, but I guess it's not an age related failure.
We put these trucks to the extreme of their ability sometimes, because they're so good at it! It comes as a surprise when they eventually fail.
All's well that ends well, I say.... not quite ended yet, but it soon will be...
. Thanks for all your encouragement! Yes, if the CV is clicking i would replace it.
I once drove down a steep bank in my old Rangey classis that was fully tricked out. It hit the bottom of the bank with a proper head on collision type impact. When i tried to back it up a bit to get an angle on the upward bank it wouldnt move. It was a Isuzu 2.8td going into a ZF autobix with a viscous transfer case that auto locks. I put both McNamara lockers in thinking it was a shaft even though the strengthened Ashcroft shafts/CVs/flanges shouldn't break with only 33" tyres.
Nothing.
Uh-oh, ive broken the transfer box i thought. Everything looked ok underneath. Hmmm. What's going on?
"Is it in gear?" asks a buddy. "Of course its in gear you....ah, good spot" the impact had popped out my radio which knocked the transfer box lever out of low and into neutral but because its such a short nob it wasnt obvious
I should never have sold that Rangey.
I once drove down a steep bank in my old Rangey classis that was fully tricked out. It hit the bottom of the bank with a proper head on collision type impact. When i tried to back it up a bit to get an angle on the upward bank it wouldnt move. It was a Isuzu 2.8td going into a ZF autobix with a viscous transfer case that auto locks. I put both McNamara lockers in thinking it was a shaft even though the strengthened Ashcroft shafts/CVs/flanges shouldn't break with only 33" tyres.
Nothing.
Uh-oh, ive broken the transfer box i thought. Everything looked ok underneath. Hmmm. What's going on?
"Is it in gear?" asks a buddy. "Of course its in gear you....ah, good spot" the impact had popped out my radio which knocked the transfer box lever out of low and into neutral but because its such a short nob it wasnt obvious
I should never have sold that Rangey.
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Sorry Ian, thanks to pberrey, I realize I somehow missed your post.
Good point you made and so much closer than my diagnosis!
Yes, the CDL is automatic on mine when in Low, and with the transfer lever in high, the drive behaved like it was in neutral (because the CDL was off and all the motion was spinning the broken shaft).
I do want to disconnect the auto CDL so that I can manually switch it from the dash mounted CDL switch. Problem is, I know nothing of 'lectrics its a black art to me other than replacing batteries in my kids toys!
I've heard there's two loom connectors on the top of the gearbox, and one of them simply needs disconnecting to leave the CDL in Low open until switched from the dash, do you know if that's correct?
When I looked, all I could see were 2 loom connectors, already disconnected but these were hanging b the side of the g/box and thy are both female (i.e. they don't join together). Dunno what they're for (maybe for use on an auto box and redundant on my manual).
And pberrey, good point about in gear or not, on a couple of occasions my kid has been playing in the truck and knocked the t/f lever into N. It always comes as a shock to slip it in gear and..... nothing, when you know it's in gear....!
I used to use the neutral position when I had the prop-drive mechanical winch on the truck, that was good because the winch drove off the gearbox, meaning it had 5 winch-in speeds and one spool-out gear (reverse). Tough winch too, takes a lot to stall these engines with a few revs on!
Good point you made and so much closer than my diagnosis!
Yes, the CDL is automatic on mine when in Low, and with the transfer lever in high, the drive behaved like it was in neutral (because the CDL was off and all the motion was spinning the broken shaft).
I do want to disconnect the auto CDL so that I can manually switch it from the dash mounted CDL switch. Problem is, I know nothing of 'lectrics its a black art to me other than replacing batteries in my kids toys!
I've heard there's two loom connectors on the top of the gearbox, and one of them simply needs disconnecting to leave the CDL in Low open until switched from the dash, do you know if that's correct?
When I looked, all I could see were 2 loom connectors, already disconnected but these were hanging b the side of the g/box and thy are both female (i.e. they don't join together). Dunno what they're for (maybe for use on an auto box and redundant on my manual).
And pberrey, good point about in gear or not, on a couple of occasions my kid has been playing in the truck and knocked the t/f lever into N. It always comes as a shock to slip it in gear and..... nothing, when you know it's in gear....!
I used to use the neutral position when I had the prop-drive mechanical winch on the truck, that was good because the winch drove off the gearbox, meaning it had 5 winch-in speeds and one spool-out gear (reverse). Tough winch too, takes a lot to stall these engines with a few revs on!
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Aaron93LC
Active Member
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- Dec 25, 2013
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I can confirm the Hazard light/CDL switch. I used the hazard switch as my CDL switch until could find the time to wire in a basic flip switch. Not pretty, but it works and now I have my hazards back.
On another note, congratulations to Clive on a less than terrifying repair bill!
On another note, congratulations to Clive on a less than terrifying repair bill!
