best way to bleed your fuel system

[tony rodaway]

yes i got 2m 8mm hose off ebay for £6.35. do my hole car fo what toyota want .
Take it the 10mm was for the flow and 6mm for return pipe.
Im amazed at how much i have learnt from other members on here as always willing to help.
If i had the correct tools and space could probably strip and rebuild my lc90 with just info and pics from other members.

 

[tony rodaway]

did u have a problem. getting the tank brackets off cos of rust .

 

[Yorkshire4x4]

did u have a problem. getting the tank brackets off cos of rust .

No they came off straight away on mine with a bit of wd40 the only issue I had was taking all the diesel out 30liters then had to pour it back in I've been following this forum for a while now as I'm on my third Lc90 a member called digger Dave mentioned corrosion at the top of the fuel tank which in most cases is hard to see or detect however in my case the diesel was dripping out of the metal pipes the fuel tank valves at the top of the fuel tank! Mechanics were asking me to change Alsorts of parts but touch wood I think it should be ok now

 

[Shayne]

I find leaving rust remover on nuts overnight followed by penetrating oil works well .

 

[Yorkshire4x4]

Yorkshire4x4 - On top of the fuel tank are the metal pipes referred to on the first page of this thread. You have a leak there. This is QUITE LIKELY to be the cause of your hard starting (just as I still think it is in Tony's case). They need replacing. See the photos in the link that I provided and the parts diagram that Shayn has just provided. This is a very common place for corrosion because it is a dirt and moisture trap.

To cause your symptoms, the leak is likely to be your return pipe (or perhaps the supply) rather than the breather but you'll be able to tell when you get the tank off. I don't see how it's possible to tell which of the three is leaking from that photo.

Thanks digger Dave for your help and guidance

 

[tony rodaway]

Well look at it this way your car struggled to start and you found a fuel leak and fixed and now starts ok.
Would say problem solved and as machanics run a buisness they will tell you anythink for money.
Good luck with your lc90.

 

[diggerdave]

Thanks digger Dave for your help and guidance

No problem mate. I'm glad it was a simple fix and glad that you got the tank off ok - it gives me hope for when I (inevitably) have to do ths job.

 

[Yorkshire4x4]

No problem mate. I'm glad it was a simple fix and glad that you got the tank off ok - it gives me hope for when I (inevitably) have to do ths job.

Hi Diggerdave I've been out driving all day today no problems started first time didn't stall! I went under the car when I returned checked the three rubber pipes and noticed that the one of the 6mm was warm the other 6mm and 10 mm were cold! Is this OK?? Don't want the rubber pipe overheating and coming off whilst I'm thrashing it on the m1

Thanks

 

[diggerdave]

Fuel in the return pipe will be warm. It's nothing to worry about, as long as you've used tubing rated for fuel lines (which I assume you have done).

 

[Yorkshire4x4]

Fuel in the return pipe will be warm. It's nothing to worry about, as long as you've used tubing rated for fuel lines (which I assume you have done).

Thanks diggerdave yes I'm sure they were suitable for fuel lines they were very similar to the original Toyota ones

 

[tony rodaway]

Since its getting warmer and will have time of work next weekend will take a look at my fuel tank.
Have put a none return valve on my return pipe and up to now still struggles.
Will give it a couple of days and if no difference wil change to the feed pipe but if no change does that mean the tank pipes are ok or can this test be inconcusive or is the non return fool proof.

 

[Beau]

Ideally you should put non return on both lines, as both lines could be bad.

 

[tony rodaway]

Cant u tell i dont wanna do the tank but needs must and the challenge awaits me.

Ideally you should put non return on both lines, as both lines could be bad.

Thanks beau did think of that but the return deffo dont work so may be feed pipe.

 

[Beau]

It's well worth it even if it doesn't come out to be the problem. You can clean up the tank and stick some paint on it and the underside of your truck. They come out nice....

 

[tony rodaway]

thanks for the pics beau and would love to do many things on my LC but im married and the wife moans about me spending to much time on it.
What she dont notice is my tool collection getting bigger so can do plenty of repairs or mods when im off work and she is not.

 

[tony rodaway]

Have done the none return valve test on my lc90 and it still the same so its not a fuel leak or air in the system.
Got told to check my glow plugs but after watching numorous clips on youtube im not convinced as my car dont have them symtoms i,e struggle to start and then start with a cloud of smoke.
My car just struggles to fire so cutting all the symtoms down to either possible

Possible glow plug
Or my thinking its the banjo bolt as stupid as it sounds but rule every thing out and only
its started since i done the banjo bolt spring stretch.

Dont get me wrong i have taken all members advice onboard and acted on it

Changed all rubber engine hose pipes
Changed fuel filter
None return valve on both feed and return line and even eliminated my primer with none return valve

Take all this in to account and if there is something im missing then please let me no.

 

[Beau]

You're missing the fuel filter housing itself, the one where you prime fuel. These commonly fail and let air in the system.

Also I have/had a similar problem to you, and looked over my entire engine/fuel system. After months I've finally traced it to my batteries being weak (some kind of draw on the system) which has led to the starter turning over slower and not starting as quick as it should. The starter should spin the engine over at no less than 250RPM, Is this the case? Mine with the poor batteries is turning over just below 200rpm which I thought was fine until I stuck another battery in and turn the key and boom she fired.

 

[Shayne]

Air ? fuel cant burn without air ?

Is the egr still trying to feed your engine to vegetarians ?

 

[tony rodaway]

You're missing the fuel filter housing itself, the one where you prime fuel. These commonly fail and let air in the system.

Also I have/had a similar problem to you, and looked over my entire engine/fuel system. After months I've finally traced it to my batteries being weak (some kind of draw on the system) which has led to the starter turning over slower and not starting as quick as it should. The starter should spin the engine over at no less than 250RPM, Is this the case? Mine with the poor batteries is turning over just below 200rpm which I thought was fine until I stuck another battery in and turn the key and boom she fired.

well one step at a time but since i have no e,m,l light to point in the right direction at least im closeing in on the problem.
Take it you mean the primer pump as its on my list of suspects and if it does leak does that mean that air is getting trapped between injection pump and non return valve getting in threw the primer pump.

 

[tony rodaway]

Air ? fuel cant burn without air ?

Is the egr still trying to feed your engine to vegetarians ?

do u mean it may have traces of vegi oil in there cos not used that since last summer and two fuel filters later one wud think wud be burned off by now.
To be honest shayne did think fuel filter change wud have done the trick as wen useing vegie oil thats one thing u notice the longer start but fuel filter solved that last time.