best way to bleed your fuel system

[tony rodaway]

Thanks dave and just found pics of some one else doing there tank and pipes

But trust me i wont be doing it.
Will replace the pipes and see how i get on.

If not a leak then wot else can it be.

 

[Shayne]

Rings a bell this and i think some might have cured it by fitting a non return valve somewhere in the line ? perhaps Beau can elaborate .

 

[Paulpen]

Do they not hasve issues with the under bonnet priming pump either letting air in the system or letting fuel run back ?

 

[Beau]

Honestly these things can be a pain, and I know it can be a lot of work/messy but I'd highly recommend just dropping the tank and checking the lines/hoses. Whilst you're at it clean out the sock filter in the tank as well, and see the general condition of things. You might replace the hose and find it's still doing the same thing.

A non return valve normally solves these kinda things but I don't think it's a good long term solution. Whatever's degraded should be fixed before you get drive-ability issues.

 

[tony rodaway]

were would u fit a non return valve to and were would i get one and wot size

 

[tony rodaway]

when i got my lc90 it was a bin and since i have had it just under 2 yrs now i have replaced the rear axel and diff as the bracket to hold it to the chassis snapped due to rust .
also replaced all 4 break discs,calipers,pads and master cylinder to have desent brakes but never had any issues with my engine or temp issues so just another step closer to rebuilding my 90 to live longer if the tank has to come out the so be it .since i got my 90 i new nothing about cars but with this site and youtube i have solved a few problems myself and its thanks to you guys nd your input.

rant over

 

[tony rodaway]

is it possible i have a damaged bango bolt as doing some research a return valve can cause a non or hard start.any idears were i can get one to try before i start going down the fuel tank pipe replace road.

 

[Shayne]

Fair play to you Tony its obviously a truck for life

I wish i could help with this but i have never had a fuel problem and so i haven't much looked at what goes where .

My thinking is you have a one way leak , when the pump is sucking fuel through there is no leak , but when left for long periods the weight of fuel in the line is dropping and sucking air in like a syringe drawing blood .

I would search ebay for a diesel fuel line non return valve and put it close to the pump so there is always enough fuel at the pump to fire the truck up . Once running it will self purge .

It's a stop gap fix but i would imagine it should eliminate the problem altogether until the leak worsens and starts to weep diesel . When it weeps you can find and fix it .

As i have said this is not something i have done myself so you might want to wait for others to comment before jumping at it .

 

[Beau]

The best place to fit the valves are between the primer pump and injector pump, and then the return line from the injector pump to the line going back (engine bay). You can do them one at a time to see which line has the leak occurring.

I'm not too sure how one can damage that banjo bolt. It's a very simple piece. Inside it is a spring and a ball at the very bottom. This bolt works two ways. The fuel spill rail (excess fuel from injectors) run into this bolt and through the return line. This pathway is constantly open with no blockage. The second path is from the injector pump through a tiny hole (less than a needle size) pressurizing that ball/spring to then escape upwards and out towards the return. I believe hearing this pressure is around 30 psi as it's only the pump body pressure, not what the pump actually generates. The majority of the fuel coming through that bolt is excess pressure from the injectors, not the pump body.

If you have a manual there is a breakdown of the injector pump banjo bolt. Maybe it's worth removing it again and making sure the spring/ball are in place.

I'm not sure if it's been mentioned but the priming pump are known to take in air and just completely fail.

 

[tony rodaway]

Fair play to you Tony its obviously a truck for life

I wish i could help with this but i have never had a fuel problem and so i haven't much looked at what goes where .

My thinking is you have a one way leak , when the pump is sucking fuel through there is no leak , but when left for long periods the weight of fuel in the line is dropping and sucking air in like a syringe drawing blood .

I would search ebay for a diesel fuel line non return valve and put it close to the pump so there is always enough fuel at the pump to fire the truck up . Once running it will self purge .

It's a stop gap fix but i would imagine it should eliminate the problem altogether until the leak worsens and starts to weep diesel . When it weeps you can find and fix it .

As i have said this is not something i have done myself so you might want to wait for others to comment before jumping at it .

Thanks for yor input shayne and I may sound like im going on about it bur rang mr T for a quote foe just the rubber pipes from the fuel tank and was quoted £21 for two small pipes so thats why I just want to be sure about every option before I spend cash.

 

[tony rodaway]

The best place to fit the valves are between the primer pump and injector pump, and then the return line from the injector pump to the line going back (engine bay). You can do them one at a time to see which line has the leak occurring.

I'm not too sure how one can damage that banjo bolt. It's a very simple piece. Inside it is a spring and a ball at the very bottom. This bolt works two ways. The fuel spill rail (excess fuel from injectors) run into this bolt and through the return line. This pathway is constantly open with no blockage. The second path is from the injector pump through a tiny hole (less than a needle size) pressurizing that ball/spring to then escape upwards and out towards the return. I believe hearing this pressure is around 30 psi as it's only the pump body pressure, not what the pump actually generates. The majority of the fuel coming through that bolt is excess pressure from the injectors, not the pump body.

If you have a manual there is a breakdown of the injector pump banjo bolt. Maybe it's worth removing it again and making sure the spring/ball are in place.

I'm not sure if it's been mentioned but the priming pump are known to take in air and just completely fail.

Thanks for your imput beau ans just gettin as much info before I start and I cant see how the bolt would get damaged but thought I would just check.

 

[Shayne]

A quid a year for mrT seems reasonable i can't see any aftermarket silicone hose lasting 20 years .

The primer pumps can fail but its rare for a Toyota i think , in my experience (boat engines) when it does being the highest point of the fuel system it will suck air while the engine is running . I wouldn't rule it out entirely as maybe its only beginning to fail but it wouldn't be high on my list of suspects .

 

[tony rodaway]

Is it possible its a choke problem and would the symtoms be the same as hard to start but my next step is to do wot u said and replace all the rubber hoses from end to end.

Any ideas what size goes were as even toyota dont tell you that.

 

[Shayne]

Tony have you introduced yourself to the forum ? i believe there's a dedicated thread somewhere ?

Maybe you did and i missed it so please forgive if i did , but if not it helps everyone to help you if we have some idea who you are and what you use your cruiser for - truth be told that's an absolute lie but we are just nosey bastards

Thing is if your using mechanics (garage) to find faults its gonna cost you big time .

If i offered you £40 to change a jubilee clip do you think you might manage ? because that's what your paying a garage for , a quids worth of hose and a couple of 50p clips and 5 minutes work if your lucky for 40 quid

And they are no more confident than you that it will fix the problem but they don't care because its your money .

4 years ago i had never owned a car of any sort and i am still in the process of learning that a car is just a box full of very simple things nailed together in a very big box

 

[tony rodaway]

Hello shayne and no I have never introduced myself as still learning to get around this site.
If I remember correctly you helped me with my alarm to add new fob and it worked.also have give my input to other members as the things I have learnt since I gor my lc90.

If you can send me a link I will introduce myself as it helps to get info off other members.

 

[tony rodaway]

I am now official member.

 

[Shayne]

Bravo Tony wish i could find some old school bus mechanics to take my truck to around here

 

[Shayne]

The simplest answers are often over looked and not once has the fuel filter itself be mentioned , a tiny bit of grit could prevent a seal ?

 

[tony rodaway]

Bravo Tony wish i could find some old school bus mechanics to take my truck to around here

Well shayne i work with good lads and girls and very good diesel fitters but there always to busy to give u hand when u need it.weekends are good as if i need to fix my car got full use off tools and the bus pits as one of my pics show when getting my car under sealed.

 

[tony rodaway]

The simplest answers are often over looked and not once has the fuel filter itself be mentioned , a tiny bit of grit could prevent a seal ?

Funny you mention that shayne as spoke to diesel fitter last nite who told me to change my fuel filter as may contain water so got it today just need to fit tmw and hope that ends my problem.

Next quest if all else fails got the new fuel pipes and non return valve as just got to eliminate one by one.