Brake pads

[Gary820]

I'm going to give the milner pads a go I think. I asked my mate at Toyota for a price and he asked if I'm sure lol. Otherwise have my eyes on some ebc yellow stuff pads.

 

[Des johnston]

Is the Milner brake pads you lads are talking about the 9 pound ones on there website?

 

[Gary820]

Yes mate.

I ended up with some blueprint pads tbh as got them at a good price from local factors. Next milner order I put in I'll stick some on my order for some spares.

 

[Knucklehead]

Really old thread but thought I would share how pleased I've been with fairly cheap Ferodo pads I got from Amazon year ago.

Have them running on MTEC disks and have found them great. Wearing well, even with the bigger tyres and cope well when fully loaded up.

Guess everybody has their favourites, i've tried most of the rest apart from Mr T originals but these seem to suit my setup best.

Anyhow the numbers for my '93 where FDB1502 and FDB1021.
Might be worth grabbing a set if see them going cheap.

Dave.

 

[StarCruiser]

I used to run Toyota ones, went for Ferodo from local factors but couldn't stop them squealing. Changed to EBC yellow stuff which worked well but very dusty and only did 11500 miles. Now in Milners ceramic on Chris's recommendation. Surprised at the low price and they do work very well. I do wonder what they might be doing to the discs though. This is only fronts. Rears ok on Ferodo (I think).

 

[Dave2000]

Noting the Mintex pads being mentioned reminded me that my brake overall was done a couple of Xmas's back.

Just checked my records, the Mintex pads F & R were fitted @241,500 miles, now showing 261, 600 odd. I am a 'quick' driver during normal driving, and those on trails with me will confirm the 80 is well loaded.

Slight brake fade and smell when parked up noted on a reccie with @Rodger for GBU 17 during last July after a 2000 metre drop during 40 + heat, other than that no issues. When not loaded and driving the 80 very hard I can get them to fade, having said that I have managed that in any vehicle I have owned!

I will be checking wear and so forth during the next front axle strip down after Xmas.

The discs are the dimpled and grooved versions and pads were included in the kit, so Mintex get a thumbs up for me.

I have in the past used the 100 series pads to get some more life, IIRC it did not make much difference?

So many factors can affect brake pad performance, manual versus auto, discs scored, callipers sticking, bigger tyres, load valve adjustment (removal?), wheel bearing adjustment, load, driver..............blah blah.

EDIT: To help the Gray matter I checked up on the discs that came with the pads, they are MTEC dimpled and grooved.

Regards

Dave

 

[MarkW]

Mtec D&G and Mintex pads is a great combo.

EBC should only be put in the bin. Shocking pads only good at producing dust.

 

[Gary820]

I'm running genuine pads all round now (with genuine discs) and it stops well.
I'm quite heavy on the brakes at times tbh, can still get a bit of fade after loads of steep hills.

 

[Beau]

I always end up returning back to genuine pads. Seem to just last at least twice as long as most other pads I've run.

 

[Grimbo]

Just fully rebuilt my front axle and fitted new Brembo disc's and a new set of 100 series genuine pads , I don't think bad value from RoughTrax at £56 ....yes I can buy pads for £20 odd but I believe you do get what you pay for.

Only issue is with new discs the 100 series pads are too thick to fit with the shims behind .

I've been using the same pads with my previous Brembo discs but only after I went through the set of Brembo pads I fitted when I replaced the original discs .
These were 80 series pads and had about 30% less surrface area of friction material than 100 series pads , hence why I think 100 series pads are better .

Plan is to bed the brakes in without the shims then refit in a few thousand miles......so far the impression is with new dot 5 fluid , new flexible s , new pads and discs.... the braking is superb......almost up to the Mrs Mercs brakes with 6 Pot calipers ;-) , reckon the Cruiser brakes will still fade quicker but pads are a lot cheaper .

 

[Shayne]

When i replaced all my disks i chose the black drilled and grooved from Roughtrax because they recommend genuine pads and i'm very pleased i did .

 

[Dave2000]

Only issue is with new discs the 100 series pads are too thick to fit with the shims behind .
new dot 5 fluid , new flexible s , new pads and discs.... the braking is superb.

Only fit the shims if you get noises.

With the greater surface area of the 100 pads your pedal pressure will be higher for the same stopping distance, how does this along with silicone brake fluid affect your brakes when cold?

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave2000]

When i replaced all my disks i chose the black drilled and grooved from Roughtrax because they recommend genuine pads and i'm very pleased i did .

The MTEC discs also came coated black, supposed to reduce corrosion on areas not worn by the pads, looked good for ooooh about ten minutes.

Regards

Dave

 

[Grimbo]

Only fit the shims if you get noises.

With the greater surface area of the 100 pads your pedal pressure will be higher for the same stopping distance, how does this along with silicone brake fluid affect your brakes when cold?

Regards

Dave

Don't see why pedal pressure will change as the ratio between master cylinder and caliper pistons is unchanged ,
they certainly feel very good , first few miles I found I was over-braking so seemingly no change in pedal force .
I had the Brembo / genuine pad combo before the axle rebuild .....just everything is now new including rebuilt and sealed pistons and new flexy brake hoses .

 

[Ben Stratford]

Very pleased with milner pads just fitted 2k miles ago.
Do manuals get better engine braking than auto’s? (Assuming lower gears are selected of course)?

 

[Dave2000]

Don't see why pedal pressure will change as the ratio between master cylinder and caliper pistons is unchanged ,
they certainly feel very good , first few miles I found I was over-braking so seemingly no change in pedal force .
I had the Brembo / genuine pad combo before the axle rebuild .....just everything is now new including rebuilt and sealed pistons and new flexy brake hoses .

The pedal force will need to be heavier for the same amount of braking distance. Think of where the pad pressure point is, true surface area has increased but you still need to increase pressure to stop by the same amount.

Try this, put a 6 inch nail between the palms of your hands, push together and think about which hand hurts more. More surface area (nail head), less applied........pain.

Unless your piston ratio is increased then physics say push harder.

And the main query was about cold pedal response using silicone fluid, no issues?

Regards

Dave

 

[Gary820]

Very pleased with milner pads just fitted 2k miles ago.
Do manuals get better engine braking than auto’s? (Assuming lower gears are selected of course)?

Yeah manuals have engine braking.
Auto needs the torque converter locking for true engine braking.

I find in low 1st mine copes fairly well going down hill but still have to rely on the brakes.

 

[Ben Stratford]

Im getting over 25k miles in hilly devon per set of pads

 

[Richard Turner]

I find the engine braking on road very effective on my auto, not tried it off road though. The step between 2nd and L seems very severe as 2nd isn't enough and L is too much. That is only on very steep hill going at 30mph though. It is good when coming off the motorway as you can select 2 and it will change down gears automatically when the engine speed won't be too high. Also good on long medium hills at about 50mph. I find it at least as good as a manual and perhaps better as you just pull the selector back and it calculates the downshifts for you!

 

[Dave2000]

An auto 80 without a torque converter lock will be unable to match the engine braking of a manual.

Regards

Dave