Can't loosen front hub flange. Please advise.

[Anwar]

Dear forum

I'd like to service my front wheel bearings, but get stuck very early on.... I remove the 6 bolts holding the drive flange to the hub, but no amount of judicious tapping seems to dislodge cone washers or flange on either side. The axle was rebuilt at Overland cruisers only 10k miles ago, so ought not to be seized. Any tips for how to remove the flange please? Where should I hit it / what with / should I use a puller (though not sure what a puller could latch on to)?

I've looked at the stickies and couldn't see anything on this particular issue (it must just be me!!)

Many thanks for considering

Anwar

 

[karl webster]

Hi.
Hit it harder. Sometimes they do get ver tight. You need to hit the hub straight down with a hammer. Keep a hand over the end of the hub as the cone washers can travel a long way once they give and may end up lost.

 

[Bat21]

As Karl said, but leave the nuts on loosely to stop the cones shooting off to a Black hole

 

[karl webster]

Nice tip Paul. I will use that in the future

I normally just rush ahead.

 

[Anwar]

Thanks for tip re washers.

Have seen reference to brass hammer. Will an ordinary one damage the flange?

Thanks

 

[uHu]

Thanks for tip re washers.
Have seen reference to brass hammer. Will an ordinary one damage the flange?
Thanks

Generally, hitting the side of the flange can modify the shape of the hole for the cones. They become oval.

What always works is hitting the six bolts straight on with a hammer (BFH) on a brass bar, which is also the specified method from Mr T. I see that some "professionals" tighten the nuts way too hard so that the cones are hard to pop next time (They can't afford the time to use a torque wrench and RTFM). Specified torque is only 33 Nm (for the 100 series), which is not much. Use a brass bar of at least 1/2" thickness, 3/8 tend to bend after some time.

When I first serviced my 2nd hand 2004 hdj100, the cones where so stuck that I couldn't get them off without damaging the studs. Changing the studs is doable, but they are glued with locktite, the heat-up type. So that will be the last time I get a 2nd hand cruiser

 

[karl webster]

I always use a lump hammer but just have to be careful.

 

[Anwar]

Very comprehensive, thank you.

Knowledge and prep makes jobs easy, and prevents damage!

 

[frank rabbets]

In my experience if you hit the end of the cones themselves with a punch at right angles to the studs they ping out. It is the cones that are stuck so it is them that need hitting but in a direction away from the hub as much as possible.

Frank

 

[Chris]

Once you get one loose the rest do tend to follow. If one won't move, move on to the next. I always clean the slot in the washer with a piece of paper so that it 'operates' properly when reinstalled. Never had any success hitting the studs inwards though. Mr T's method I know, but not worked for me.

Chris

 

[Towpack]

First time I took my hub down the washers were rusted in. A few good heavy blows on the side of the flange with a copper face mallett and no problem. Copper slip on re assembly. The flange is plenty thick and strong enough to take this punishment without damage IMO.

 

[ajnabi]

I've had success with a combination of hitting the outside edge of the flange and also on the studs, but as mentioned already you do have to use some force, hence the reason for the brass drift/copper hammer.

IQ

 

[uHu]

In my experience if you hit the end of the cones themselves with a punch at right angles to the studs they ping out. It is the cones that are stuck so it is them that need hitting but in a direction away from the hub as much as possible.

x2. As an supplement.

Once you get one loose the rest do tend to follow. If one won't move, move on to the next....

x2

A combination of all methods is OK. But really, I've seen flanges with oval holes and flattened outside.

 

[Chris]

I have certainly bruised a few of the holes in my time I have to confess. You do have to be fairly careful. Just battering away with a BFH isn't the way.

C

 

[frank rabbets]

When I checked my 100 over after buying it fully serviced at Toyota Croydon (I actually saw it in bits there) I tried to remove the front wheels but had a hell of a job. What they had done was used a chisell between the outer and inner hubs. This had swollen their edges so much that obviously they could not get the wheels back on. So what did they do? Used the wheels nuts to drag the wheels back on. When I phoned the foreman about it, and a catalogue of other cocks up, he sounded bored. No wonder the world is in such a state.

Frank

 

[Anwar]

Just a note to say thank you fellas. Combination of tapping the flange, hitting the ends of the studs, tapping the cones themselves and a bit of pre-sprayed WD loosened everything nicely. Hubs now tight.

Thanks again

Anwar

 

[uHu]

Just re-read this thread. To summarize, and use the correct verbs: TAPping the flanges and BANGing the studs!!! Tapping studs won't work - BFH and a steady hand required.

Tap: Strike with a quick light blow
Bang: Hit forcefully