you won't be able to drop it far enough to worry about the fan Rob, there's quite a lot of space around it and the back of the head will hit the bulkhead first.
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Centre Diff Lock Actuator, 1993 auto.
- Thread starter Paul_Humphreys
- Start date
Cptsideways
Well-Known Member
If you want to get to the mechanism that actually does the locking you have to take the front most output part of the housing off
If you take the actuator off you can manualy lock and unlock the centre diff so you'll be able to feel if there's a physical problem before you go as far as the above 
Rob
Well-Known Member
Managed to get the actuator off today after a lot of swearing 
Not the most accessible part but I got there in the end. I found 2 things wrong, firstly the actuator breather had deteriorated and as a result was not connected the the gearbox breathers. I tried the WD40 thing and it did not work. Once I finally got it off I tried it off the TC and the motor spins but the output gear does not spin, so I shall most probably be replacing the unit. I will try and repair it but I suspect that something has actually broken inside as the gear is jammed. I also found that I need a new gearbox mount.
A couple of notes on removing the actuator, when dropping the gearbox I found that you need to remove the TC lever as the gearbox would rest on it. I think this is only applicable for manuals as the TC lever has a couple of bends in it that get in the way. Also once you remove all 4 bolts holding the the actuator in place it will be difficult to get it off. After a phone call to Jon I got thinking about leverage (thanks Jon
) and decided to get the crowbar out. After getting it in all sorts of positions I finally managed to shift it by feeding it through the TC lever hole in the body and levered the motor can against the side of the gearbox. It was not obvious at first as the TC lever linkage occupies the space where the crowbar went.
Not the most accessible part but I got there in the end. I found 2 things wrong, firstly the actuator breather had deteriorated and as a result was not connected the the gearbox breathers. I tried the WD40 thing and it did not work. Once I finally got it off I tried it off the TC and the motor spins but the output gear does not spin, so I shall most probably be replacing the unit. I will try and repair it but I suspect that something has actually broken inside as the gear is jammed. I also found that I need a new gearbox mount. A couple of notes on removing the actuator, when dropping the gearbox I found that you need to remove the TC lever as the gearbox would rest on it. I think this is only applicable for manuals as the TC lever has a couple of bends in it that get in the way. Also once you remove all 4 bolts holding the the actuator in place it will be difficult to get it off. After a phone call to Jon I got thinking about leverage (thanks Jon
) and decided to get the crowbar out. After getting it in all sorts of positions I finally managed to shift it by feeding it through the TC lever hole in the body and levered the motor can against the side of the gearbox. It was not obvious at first as the TC lever linkage occupies the space where the crowbar went.
Good to hear you managed to get it off without any disasters
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- Mar 1, 2010
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Hi Rob; I think your LC has definately caught Mogoliaitis. No known cure.
Frank
Frank
Rob
Well-Known Member
I will find the cure, I promise.
An update on the actuator, the magnets are loose inside and so will try to glue them back in place. Also I seemed to have damaged the actuator casing when removing it from the TC, there is a hole in the casing used to locate the actuator on a dowel on the TC and it is cracked. Might try to get that fixed but looks unlikely, seems that you need to be very careful when removing the actuator from the TC.
An update on the actuator, the magnets are loose inside and so will try to glue them back in place. Also I seemed to have damaged the actuator casing when removing it from the TC, there is a hole in the casing used to locate the actuator on a dowel on the TC and it is cracked. Might try to get that fixed but looks unlikely, seems that you need to be very careful when removing the actuator from the TC.
it's no fun keep taking it on and off is it, that's the conclusion I came to when mine went and after a bit of prodding just replaced it.
I just kept the whole transfer box off my silver one when I replaced the transmission from my white one. I figures that a full change out would be easier then faffing around.
Well done Rob. A lot of work I know but doesn't it feel good when it all works again. Trust me I really DO know what that's like.
Chris
Well done Rob. A lot of work I know but doesn't it feel good when it all works again. Trust me I really DO know what that's like.
Chris
Rob
Well-Known Member
Its working but still not quite finished yet, still need to refill the TC with oil and raise it back in place which should take a while.
It did feel good when I saw the dash light come on and the front and rear diff locks working again!
It did feel good when I saw the dash light come on and the front and rear diff locks working again!
My front locker was engaging but the light would not go solid. In the end I pinched the sender out of my white diff and hey presto, it worked. No idea how the sender unit could fail. It's essentially a 'press to make' switch. I cleaned it, lubed it, worked it and yet it simply would not complete the circuit.
Chris
Chris
