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Clutch replacement
- Thread starter 567simons
- Start date
It's pretty simple. We can talk you through it. Main bullet points are:
Remove front and rear props
Remove transfer box - about 7? bolts
Remover starter motor and the stud
Disconnect clutch slave cylinder
Remove inside gear lever tray
Disconnect gear and 4x4 levers
Remove bell housing bolts
Disconnect breathers and wiring etc
And that's about it
From memory in the FSM there are only 22 steps in the whole thing. No mysteries, pretty simple but heavy. A set of wobble bars, torch, mirror and a whizzy gun do make this much easier.
Remove front and rear props
Remove transfer box - about 7? bolts
Remover starter motor and the stud
Disconnect clutch slave cylinder
Remove inside gear lever tray
Disconnect gear and 4x4 levers
Remove bell housing bolts
Disconnect breathers and wiring etc
And that's about it
From memory in the FSM there are only 22 steps in the whole thing. No mysteries, pretty simple but heavy. A set of wobble bars, torch, mirror and a whizzy gun do make this much easier.
Towpack
Well-Known Member
Nothing overly complex TBH and other than the obvious removal procedures of propshafts, starter motor, shift linkage, speedo drive, electrical connectors etc I'd note the following:
1. Remove the transfer box from the main box first. The FSM procedure shows removal as one unit but it is HEAVY! and splitting the two units first makes it lighter and easier to handle. I changed mine about 3 years ago by removing the main + transfer boxes as one, really struggled and made a right spice shop of it, ending up damaging the clutch cover plate and having to do it all a second time!
2. There isn't much room between the bellhousing and transmission tunnel which makes access to the housing bolts difficult, you'll need some long extension/wobble bars. Removing the Xfer box first also gives a bit more room to manoeuvre the unit, especially on replacement. Once the box is out, changing the clutch itself is pretty straight forward.
Edit.....Chris beat me to it!
1. Remove the transfer box from the main box first. The FSM procedure shows removal as one unit but it is HEAVY! and splitting the two units first makes it lighter and easier to handle. I changed mine about 3 years ago by removing the main + transfer boxes as one, really struggled and made a right spice shop of it, ending up damaging the clutch cover plate and having to do it all a second time!
2. There isn't much room between the bellhousing and transmission tunnel which makes access to the housing bolts difficult, you'll need some long extension/wobble bars. Removing the Xfer box first also gives a bit more room to manoeuvre the unit, especially on replacement. Once the box is out, changing the clutch itself is pretty straight forward.
Edit.....Chris beat me to it!
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A single 3' 1/2 inch drive extension will be your best friend. you can take the starter top nut/bolt off stood at the front and the bellhouse bolts are much easier with a one piece extension.
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I found that taking the front fan off enables the engine to slope down without it catching the shroud. Can be done without having to take anything else off but you need fidly fingers between fan and shroud.
I have a 2 ft long extension bar which makes taking out the bell bolts easy, especially with another 6 inches on the end.
I have a 2 ft long extension bar which makes taking out the bell bolts easy, especially with another 6 inches on the end.
Which is why I suggested a set of wobble bars in post 2. Very handy. Especially with a torch and a mirror. Oh hang on....
Good idea to take the fan off Frank. It's pretty simple and doing it to begin with is the right time. It's a principle called 'sharpening the saw'. Do things in preparation not when you hit a snag - which you know you will hit for sure. And it will prevent a huge ding in your rad!
Good idea to take the fan off Frank. It's pretty simple and doing it to begin with is the right time. It's a principle called 'sharpening the saw'. Do things in preparation not when you hit a snag - which you know you will hit for sure. And it will prevent a huge ding in your rad!
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Don't forget to use a clutch alignment tool or similar.
I did it on my own once. If the shaft hadn't gone in first go, I'd be lying there still with it on my chest. Easier with the transfer box off of course, but when I had a garage replace one they had all the gear and had it done in 45 mins by wiggling the whole assembly off in one go. They took around the same time to put it back too. Really fast. But they made a real mess of the gear shift console area with missing clips and so on. Clearly they weren't completer-finishers. I do need to swap the gearbox for the new 100 series one I have in the garage. When I do that I shall be calling on the help of a most excellent chap who I know has a ramp ....
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Ahh, I sold the ramp the other day..........
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If I'm to be buried in that thing I insist you are one of the pall bearers 
Ok then I'll buy it back then just for you.....
Ok then I'll buy it back then just for you.....
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