silvercruiser
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Ok i stand corrected. my later digital dash is different my oil warning light comes up red not amber and water in diesel light is amber.
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Coolant loss help please
- Thread starter Paulsven
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Ok i stand corrected. my later digital dash is different my oil warning light comes up red not amber and water in diesel light is amber.
wobbly
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Photo of rad in situ would help, i can compare it to mine.
The manual and auto rads are the same size, but as the manual one doesnt have the AT coil in the bottom it has a deeper core, so potentially has a greater cooling ability.
Many of the pattern ones for sale are an auto rad with the pipeholes bunged up.
Pete
The manual and auto rads are the same size, but as the manual one doesnt have the AT coil in the bottom it has a deeper core, so potentially has a greater cooling ability.
Many of the pattern ones for sale are an auto rad with the pipeholes bunged up.
Pete
Ok so I have taken some pictures to entertain you all on a Friday night! 
The rad has 2 bunged off pipes at the bottom so I am assuming this is for an auto and not a manual like mine?
The first one here shows the width of the current installed rad. The top tank is approx 4.5cm.
The actual coil/fin width though is actually a lot thinner as demonstrated here.
These are only pics of the internal recess. There is in fact a further recess at the front although maybe not quite as much. I would say that the coils and fins are perhaps 3cm wide max.
Here you can see the amount that the fan blades stick out of the back of the housing.
The front of the fan blades are approx an inch and three quarters to the fins on the rear section of the rad.
I reckon that there is plenty of scope to increase the width of the current radiator which should give a significant amount of extra cooling to the system.
I used a couple of nuts as spacers and took a photo to demonstrate.
This increases the top tank measurement I could have by approx 30%
There is still plenty of room between the rear of the rad and the fan blades, nothing is snagged after the housing is moved further towards the block and the fan blades now sit further in the housing.
To be honest there is probably enough room between rad fins and fan blades and back of plastic housing to belts/pulleys etc for the fan to sit completely inside the fan housing.
My question is this! Is my rad the wrong one and too small? Should a genuine rad have a wider top tank and have deeper coil and fins that the approx 3cm I currently have? If it is the correct one, am what I am thinking an upgradeable possibility?
I think if I had a rad 30% wider where the cooling coil and fins filled the bracket better and the fan itself was further in to the housing this should all equate to significantly better cooling right?
The rad has 2 bunged off pipes at the bottom so I am assuming this is for an auto and not a manual like mine?
The first one here shows the width of the current installed rad. The top tank is approx 4.5cm.
The actual coil/fin width though is actually a lot thinner as demonstrated here.
These are only pics of the internal recess. There is in fact a further recess at the front although maybe not quite as much. I would say that the coils and fins are perhaps 3cm wide max.
Here you can see the amount that the fan blades stick out of the back of the housing.
The front of the fan blades are approx an inch and three quarters to the fins on the rear section of the rad.
I reckon that there is plenty of scope to increase the width of the current radiator which should give a significant amount of extra cooling to the system.
I used a couple of nuts as spacers and took a photo to demonstrate.
This increases the top tank measurement I could have by approx 30%
There is still plenty of room between the rear of the rad and the fan blades, nothing is snagged after the housing is moved further towards the block and the fan blades now sit further in the housing.
To be honest there is probably enough room between rad fins and fan blades and back of plastic housing to belts/pulleys etc for the fan to sit completely inside the fan housing.
My question is this! Is my rad the wrong one and too small? Should a genuine rad have a wider top tank and have deeper coil and fins that the approx 3cm I currently have? If it is the correct one, am what I am thinking an upgradeable possibility?
I think if I had a rad 30% wider where the cooling coil and fins filled the bracket better and the fan itself was further in to the housing this should all equate to significantly better cooling right?
Beau
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Rad looks fine. I fitted Milners Rad couple years ago as the Toyota one had a tough life and it's been fine. The milner one is slightly smaller on width and a touch lighter. I would assume it's not as good quality as Toyota's but it's certainly good enough and I've had no problems with it since.
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BobMurphy
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There are threads somewhere about people getting "3-Core" radiators from certain suppliers. These give a better flow and have decent cooling fins. I seem to recall that 'Chris' was one of the protagonists
.The engine radiator has to be very close to the Air-Con radiator otherwise airflow is lost due to turbulence in the gap between them (also covered in previous threads).
Remember that your radiator was changed by the PO in an attempt to cure a fluid loss problem, it wasn't itself the cause of the problem
; Ergo, the cause lies elsewhere (unless he replaced one faulty radiator with another 
).Bob.
Ahhhh but two wrongs don't make a right.
If the KZ1 (look at me getting all the jargon now!
) has always suffered overheating problems leading to cracked heads then replacing an original rad potentially already on the limit with an aftermarket one that may be a bit thinner surely won't help the situation.
Chucking in a thicker rad shouldn't effect the proximity to the air con rad but merely push the plastic housing slightly further back over the fan blades, effectively pushing the rad coil closer to the fan itself.
I have no doubt from trawling the tinterweb that this subject has been covered about 4000 times a day across the globe and am sure people are bored with the subject.
I might fit one of the more accurate temp displays that I have read about and accurately monitor temps with the current rad and then chuck in a bigger rad and see what, if any improvement/change there is.
If I do end up with it being a cracked head etc then in my mind it is important to prevent a future repeated issues.
I'm tempted to cut a huge hole in the bonnet and fit a giant fan to get rid of all the heat and stick an water tank on the roof to gravity feed the cooling system! Proportional solution to the issue me thinks
If the KZ1 (look at me getting all the jargon now!
) has always suffered overheating problems leading to cracked heads then replacing an original rad potentially already on the limit with an aftermarket one that may be a bit thinner surely won't help the situation.Chucking in a thicker rad shouldn't effect the proximity to the air con rad but merely push the plastic housing slightly further back over the fan blades, effectively pushing the rad coil closer to the fan itself.
I have no doubt from trawling the tinterweb that this subject has been covered about 4000 times a day across the globe and am sure people are bored with the subject.
I might fit one of the more accurate temp displays that I have read about and accurately monitor temps with the current rad and then chuck in a bigger rad and see what, if any improvement/change there is.
If I do end up with it being a cracked head etc then in my mind it is important to prevent a future repeated issues.
I'm tempted to cut a huge hole in the bonnet and fit a giant fan to get rid of all the heat and stick an water tank on the roof to gravity feed the cooling system! Proportional solution to the issue me thinks
cavanmick
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[emoji1]Dagnammit! I thought I was doing so well!
BobMurphy
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Dagnammit! I thought I was doing so well!
.I agree that while you are at it - do everything you can to improve the reliability
.But a small radiator that causes the motor to overheat under load doesn't (usually) result in the coolant disappearing - it causes the overflow bottle to overflow which is very obvious!
All I am saying is - don't get sidetracked into non-issues
.This is very interesting, keep it coming
.Bob.
Ok so I thought I'd make a start at finding out what is going on (if anything) and start a few maintenance tasks.
I thought I'd take the rad off and remove expansion the tank. While at it I thought I'd pop off the viscous fan with a view to renewing the silicon oil in it. I thought this might be better than a suggestion I read somewhere that the best way to test it is grab it!
So off came the grill etc. Off came the sump guard and it looks like the sump has been in a blazing inferno! Looks cooked to me! I am not sure if it is historic but looking up from underneath there is evidence of some staining near the "new" water pump. Wondering if there could be a weep there.
Think that might need removing, cleaning up and inspect what's underneath!
The expansion tank has a thick reddy/brown sludge at the bottom. I also noticed after draining the rad that clumps of this sludge had appeared in the rad which I could see as cap was off and rad drained. Not sure if this indicates anything or not other than a good flush might be in order. Old oil perhaps indicating head issues?
Viscous fan off no problems so thought I'd have the timing belt cover off to have a look. There appears to be some oil in the vicinity although the oil filler cap is above this so I was thinking overflow from previous topping up? Anyone concur?
I then noticed some oil under the intake manifold but not from the rocker cover so I thought I'd try to investigate further. Could just be from intake manifold gasket? Is this an issue?
Intrigued even further I took the intake pipe off and there is a very good coating of oil in the outlet of the turbo.
I couldn't get a very good photo but there is "standing" oil in there.
Thought I'd better knock it on the head as a couple more hours and the whole engine would have been out!
Not sure what any of this has to do with cooling issues but someone might see something that could ring a bell or two of similar issues they may have had.
Does my turbo need a recondition? Perhaps the coolant loss is in the turbo after all?
I thought I'd take the rad off and remove expansion the tank. While at it I thought I'd pop off the viscous fan with a view to renewing the silicon oil in it. I thought this might be better than a suggestion I read somewhere that the best way to test it is grab it!
So off came the grill etc. Off came the sump guard and it looks like the sump has been in a blazing inferno! Looks cooked to me! I am not sure if it is historic but looking up from underneath there is evidence of some staining near the "new" water pump. Wondering if there could be a weep there.
Think that might need removing, cleaning up and inspect what's underneath!
The expansion tank has a thick reddy/brown sludge at the bottom. I also noticed after draining the rad that clumps of this sludge had appeared in the rad which I could see as cap was off and rad drained. Not sure if this indicates anything or not other than a good flush might be in order. Old oil perhaps indicating head issues?
Viscous fan off no problems so thought I'd have the timing belt cover off to have a look. There appears to be some oil in the vicinity although the oil filler cap is above this so I was thinking overflow from previous topping up? Anyone concur?
I then noticed some oil under the intake manifold but not from the rocker cover so I thought I'd try to investigate further. Could just be from intake manifold gasket? Is this an issue?
Intrigued even further I took the intake pipe off and there is a very good coating of oil in the outlet of the turbo.
I couldn't get a very good photo but there is "standing" oil in there.
Thought I'd better knock it on the head as a couple more hours and the whole engine would have been out!
Not sure what any of this has to do with cooling issues but someone might see something that could ring a bell or two of similar issues they may have had.
Does my turbo need a recondition? Perhaps the coolant loss is in the turbo after all?
BobMurphy
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Paul,
Some thoughts . . .
Your sump has been bathed in hot anti-freeze which has removed the paint. I think that is probably from the failed water pump that has now been replaced. So - I wouldn't worry about it (but clean it and paint it before it rusts ).
The sludge in the expansion tank and rad is probably the 'leak stopper' that the PO put in, I would flush it all out if you can - a high-pressure hose and some Industrial Cleaner would be the things to use - but wash any cleaner out thoroughly before re-fitting.
The Timing Belt looks fine, but I would change it as a precaution while you're there, they don't cost much. I put up a detailed thread somewhere (may be on "The Other Side" ).
The Inlet Manifold is down-stream of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve. When I last removed mine it looked like a cylinder head inside - a lot of oil & carbon seems to be coming from the exhaust manifold.
The Exhaust Manifold and the EGR take-off are upstream of the turbo, but the air that the exhaust gas mixes with has come from the output side of the turbo - so, is the oil coming from the Turbo or the combustion process (or both) ??
I guess a diagnostic check would be to clean the inlet manifold thoroughly, then blank-off the EGR outlet and see what happens over the next couple of thousand miles.
Another couple of hours and you'd have had the head of - then you could have checked the faces of the block and head for low spots that might be causing a leak, or bulges in the head gasket where its leaking between the leaves .
Like this . . .
Keep going - you'll get there yet (wherever 'there' is) .
Bob
.
Some thoughts . . .
Your sump has been bathed in hot anti-freeze which has removed the paint. I think that is probably from the failed water pump that has now been replaced. So - I wouldn't worry about it (but clean it and paint it before it rusts
).The sludge in the expansion tank and rad is probably the 'leak stopper' that the PO put in, I would flush it all out if you can - a high-pressure hose and some Industrial Cleaner would be the things to use - but wash any cleaner out thoroughly before re-fitting.
The Timing Belt looks fine, but I would change it as a precaution while you're there, they don't cost much. I put up a detailed thread somewhere (may be on "The Other Side"
).The Inlet Manifold is down-stream of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve. When I last removed mine it looked like a cylinder head inside - a lot of oil & carbon seems to be coming from the exhaust manifold.
The Exhaust Manifold and the EGR take-off are upstream of the turbo, but the air that the exhaust gas mixes with has come from the output side of the turbo - so, is the oil coming from the Turbo or the combustion process (or both) ??
I guess a diagnostic check would be to clean the inlet manifold thoroughly, then blank-off the EGR outlet and see what happens over the next couple of thousand miles.
Another couple of hours and you'd have had the head of - then you could have checked the faces of the block and head for low spots that might be causing a leak, or bulges in the head gasket where its leaking between the leaves .
Like this . . .
Keep going - you'll get there yet (wherever 'there' is)
.Bob
.
Pat
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I had similar problems to you.I replaced the rad with a new Toyota one but then found the engine was smoking.It was suggested that the head gasket and or head may be defective so took the head off,breaking 2 of my ribs in the process and then found that water had been getting into no2 cylinder and scoured the wall.the head gasket had been replaced about 5 years previous by an expert? and according to my diesel mechanic mate it was the roughest job he had ever seen.The upshot of it all was after I pulled the motor out I did more damage to myself and ended up getting a used motor(done 160000ks) and got it fitted for the princely sum of $4100 with a 3month 5000warranty and it is now going very well.If I have any more motor problems I will take the complete engine out before disassembly as it is a damn site easier to do.I hope you get the problem sorted out but I do think it needs a look inside.
Ok. So I decided to go for it and "whip" off the head!
I got a tad confused at a couple of points mainly as the KZ1TE manual on here seems different to the Aussie manual I bought from roughtrax. At what I would consider a crucial point, removing the timing belt there was a bit of a different description and didn't know which was correct. Lined up timing marks etc and removed tensioner. Manual I downloaded said the next step was to turn the crankshaft 90deg counterclockwise in order to prevent some sort of damage, then remove tension pulley and then the belt. The hardcopy manual I have mentioned nothing about that and just said take it all out! When I saw the work "damage" I got a bit panicked. Surely the timing marks are important so I didn't know if I should do the counter clockwise manoeuvre or not! Sod it I followed the Aussie rules!
I'd be grateful if someone could enlighten me on whether or not I did the right thing or if I should have cranked back.
Nearly got foiled by a little vac pipe I had missed when lifting off the head but worked out the snag and off it came ripping my shorts in the process climbing in to the engine bay!
Here is the head
Not sure if it shows anything head gasket wise!
However here comes the crunch!!!!!!
I don't know what's been rattling around in cylinder 1!!!!
and cylinder 2
I think I may have to request the thread be changed from coolant loss to "Engine rebuild help please. My motor is a lemon!"
I assume that this is now going to cost me! Any idea how much new pistons cost?
Is it worth me trying to get the engine out or do in situ assuming the pistons need changing of course! I would say it might be a good idea!
If I remove the engine completely can anyone recommend an engine crane? Does it need to be long reach and what sort of weight would do?
I love a challenge but wondering if I should cut my losses. Enjoying it too much though to quit now but the bank manager might think differently!
I got a tad confused at a couple of points mainly as the KZ1TE manual on here seems different to the Aussie manual I bought from roughtrax. At what I would consider a crucial point, removing the timing belt there was a bit of a different description and didn't know which was correct. Lined up timing marks etc and removed tensioner. Manual I downloaded said the next step was to turn the crankshaft 90deg counterclockwise in order to prevent some sort of damage, then remove tension pulley and then the belt. The hardcopy manual I have mentioned nothing about that and just said take it all out! When I saw the work "damage" I got a bit panicked. Surely the timing marks are important so I didn't know if I should do the counter clockwise manoeuvre or not! Sod it I followed the Aussie rules!
I'd be grateful if someone could enlighten me on whether or not I did the right thing or if I should have cranked back.
Nearly got foiled by a little vac pipe I had missed when lifting off the head but worked out the snag and off it came ripping my shorts in the process climbing in to the engine bay!
Here is the head
Not sure if it shows anything head gasket wise!
However here comes the crunch!!!!!!
I don't know what's been rattling around in cylinder 1!!!!
and cylinder 2
I think I may have to request the thread be changed from coolant loss to "Engine rebuild help please. My motor is a lemon!"
I assume that this is now going to cost me! Any idea how much new pistons cost?
Is it worth me trying to get the engine out or do in situ assuming the pistons need changing of course! I would say it might be a good idea!
If I remove the engine completely can anyone recommend an engine crane? Does it need to be long reach and what sort of weight would do?
I love a challenge but wondering if I should cut my losses. Enjoying it too much though to quit now but the bank manager might think differently!
Trevor
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No need to move either pulley once the timing marks are lined up. In the 90 section on this forum, look at the sticky section and you'll see my 1KZTE engine rebuild thread which might help you out. After my experiences I would recommend taking the engine out, will be much easier. I use a 2 ton engine crane with the bolt in the 1 ton position, thus gives the reach you need. From memory I think Milners and Roughtrax do new pistons, you might get lucky and pick up set from eBay.
Depending on funds, you could consider deglazing the bores and putting new piston rings in at the same time.
Depending on funds, you could consider deglazing the bores and putting new piston rings in at the same time.
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Trevor is the 1KZ-TE expert! 
You may find this thread useful, its certainly inspired me and will be a huge help when I rebuild mine:
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...KZ-TE-engine-rebuild?highlight=1kz-te+rebuild
This thread may also be useful, again from Trev:
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/50503-Fiery/page3?highlight=trevor
Good luck with it and don't give up, its not too hard a job and if you get any problems/need more advice just shout.
You may find this thread useful, its certainly inspired me and will be a huge help when I rebuild mine:
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...KZ-TE-engine-rebuild?highlight=1kz-te+rebuild
This thread may also be useful, again from Trev:
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/50503-Fiery/page3?highlight=trevor
Good luck with it and don't give up, its not too hard a job and if you get any problems/need more advice just shout.
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