Coolant loss help please

[Paulsven]

Thanks.

I have sent a few emails to some local recon places to enquiry about prices for re-boring, honing etc.

The score in cylinder 1 can be felt with a finger nail but having said that my nails aren't exactly manicured.

I think the plan is to try and get the engine out over the bank holiday and strip out pistons etc and re-assess.

I will definitely be doing a dye test.

In terms of getting the engine out, what is the minimum I need to disconnect from the transmission side and do I need to mark things up so they re-align after?

 

[Trevor]

To get the engine out:-

Disconnect batteries and remove driver side battery.
Remove aircon belt, undo aircon compressor from block and rest where driver battery was. Top tip, loosen the bolt that goes through the aircon belt pulley first, before winding the threaded adjuster. That one caught me out in the past.
Disconnect alternator plug.
Disconnect oil level sender connector from side of sump.
Remove flexi pipe between airbox and and intake pipework.
Remove airbox from inner wing (3 bolts).
Remove both props, doesn't need to go back the same way on the 4 holes but some folk will centre punch a mark either side of the companion flange joints at each end .
Remove centre console and gearstick gaiter. Pop the plastic surround off and gaiter will come with it, gaiter held on by very delicate plastic clips so be gentle.
Put transfer box into neutral and remove the transfer gear lever by removing the 4 bolts from the turret and lifting transfer gear lever out. Take a photo of it's positioning first, it'll help when refitting.
Undo 4 bolts from "V" bracket to transfer box.
Undo gearbox crossmember (2 long bolts at each end) and support with jack.
Lower crossmember so gearbox and transfer box hang down.
Undo Transfer wiring loom connectors and unclip or unbolt loom fixing hardware.
Remove transfer box, try not to let it just drop on the floor, ally casing and all that. Support on a decent garage jack if you can and maybe have some timber on the floor in case it does drop.
Remove starter motor.
Undo clutch slave cylinder from side of gearbox.
Unclip gearbox wiring loom connectors and unclip or unbolt loom fixing hardware.
Undo bellhousing bolts, top two bellhousing bolts are a bugger to get to, need a few extension bars and a knuckle, go at them from top of gearbox so as not to deflect knuckle too much.
The bottom 4 bolts on the bellhousing will release the flywheel inspection plate, the plate is a bit of a bugger to wiggle out from the PAS lines but is doable.
Move jack to gearbox and jack back up.
Refit crossmember to chassis (4 long bolts can be loose). Top tip, turn the crossmember upside down so the "V" bracket points to the floor.
Wiggle gearbox backwards (support on jacks) until clear of clutch and resting on crossmember. There should be enough clearance moving backwards to clear the clutch without having to remove the gearstick from the gearbox, if you need to take this out undo the 4 bolts for the gearstick housing, using a cloth for grip, turn the round cover 90 degrees to the left whilst pushing down to release. It's a bit like taking a bayonet light bulb out.
Either undo PAS line at the banjo bolt on the pump, or easier to remove PAS pump (two bolts, fiddly but not tricky but catch the fluid that will come out).
Split exhaust below turbo (3 bolts, plenty of PlusGas sprayed ahead of time).
Remove viscous fan and fan cowling from rad.
Drain rad and disconnect top and bottom hoses.
Undo earth strap from drivers side of block low down, might be one on other side too.
Disconnect heater hoses.
Unbolt heater valve from bulkhead.
Disconnect fuel and return lines from fuel pump.
Undo engine mount bolts (2 each side).
Hopefully engine has the lifting hooks already on it, if not then a couple of slings should do it.
Start unclipping wiring loom from front of engine and work backwards (its all on the passenger side), the awkward stuff towards rear can be left until you start lifting the engine a bit, just check you're not straining the harness as you lift.
The engine will just clear the bulkhead and radiator, might need a little twist to clear the last bit.

Pretty sure that's it.

 

[Paulsven]

To get the engine out:-

Disconnect batteries and remove driver side battery.
Remove aircon belt, undo aircon compressor from block and rest where driver battery was.
Remove flexi pipe from airbox and and intake pipework.
Remove airbox from inner wing (3 bolts).
Remove both props, doesn't need to go back same way but some folk will centre punch a mark either side of the join.
Undo gearbox crossmember and support with jack.
Lower crossmember so gearbox and transfer box hang down.
Remove centre console and gearstick gaiter.
Put transfer box into neutral and remove the transfer gear lever.
Undo Transfer wiring loom connectors and unclip or unbolt loom fixing hardware.
Remove transfer box.
Remove starter motor.
Undo cluctch slave cylinder from side of gearbox.
Unclip gearbox wiring loom connectors and unclip or unbolt loom fixing hardware.
Undo bellhousing bolts, top two bellhousing bolts are a bugger to get to, need a few extension bars and a knuckle, go at them from top of gearbox so as not to deflect knuckle too much.
The bottom 4 bolts on the bellhousing will release the flywheel inspection plate, the plate is a bit of a bugger to wiggle out from the PAS lines but is doable.
Refit crossmember (bolts can be loose).
Wiggle gearbox backwards (support on jacks) until clear of clutch and resting on crossmember. There should be enough clearance moving backwards to clear the clutch without having to remove the gearstick from the gearbox, if you need to take this out undo the 4 bolts for the gearstick housing, using a cloth for grip, turn the round cover 90 degrees to the left whilst pushing down to release. It's a bit like taking a bayonet light bulb out.
Either undo PAS line at the banjo bolt, or easier to remove PAS pump (two bolts, fiddly but not tricky but catch the fluid that will come out).
Split exhaust below turbo (3 bolts, plenty of PlusGas sprayed ahead of time).
Remove viscous fan and fan cowling from rad.
Drain rad and disconnect top and bottom hoses.
Undo earth strap from drivers side of block low down, might be one on other side too.
Disconnect heater hoses.
Unbolt heater valve from bulkhead.
Disconnect fuel and return lines from fuel pump.
Undo engine mount bolts (2 each side).
Hopefully engine has the lifting hooks already on it, if not then a couple of slings should do it.
Start unclipping wiring loom from front of engine and work backwards (its all on the passenger side), the awkward stuff towards rear can be left until you start lifting the engine a bit, just check you're not straining the harness as you lift.
The engine will just clear the bulkhead and radiator, might need a little twist to clear the last bit.

Pretty sure that's it.

Awesome Trevor thanks. You're a legend.

 

[Trevor]

Just added a couple of extra steps

 

[Paulsven]

Well here it is!

A KZ1TE!



I must say it has been a bit of a struggle but got there in the end without breaking anything I hope! 3 days or swearing, spitting cursing, bleeding but do feel a sense of achievement already though!

Top tip - after scraping all the skin off your thumb when the spanner and scaff bar slip, don't then spray WD40 on it cos it hurts like hell!

Now just need to get it mounted to the stand. I assume the best way to do this is to remove the flywheel and bolt through where the bell housing goes? I assume I have to mark the flywheel before I remove it so it goes back on the same way? Anything else I need to mark before it comes off?

 

[frank rabbets]

I always put 1 centre punch dot on the front of the top of piston number one, 2 on piston number two and so on. This double checks that you have the right one in each bore and they are the right way round.

 

[Trevor]

Nice one, bit of graft gone into pulling that out.

 

[BobMurphy]

Now just need to get it mounted to the stand. I assume the best way to do this is to remove the flywheel and bolt through where the bell housing goes? I assume I have to mark the flywheel before I remove it so it goes back on the same way? Anything else I need to mark before it comes off?

I don't think there is any reason to mark the flywheel - unless of course it is dynamically balanced with the crank, which I doubt. Does anyone know??

I don't think there are any timing sensors on the flywheel either .

I have an engine stand. I used it when rebuilding a Land Rover Engine (the old 4-cylinder 2286cc petrol lump). It bothered me that the casting around the flywheel to which the bell housing bolts wouldn't be strong enough to support the entire motor - even though it was a cast iron block as I recall. It survived, so you should be OK.

Awaiting the strip, clean-up and crack testing with great interest .

Bob.

 

[Trevor]

No marks on flywheel, bung it back on any old how.

 

[Beau]

A bit late, but my youtube vid may have helped you! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2g_OxGnJkKU&list=UUFyd8yL0OIFPYmxH9p7CJ8Q

 

[Paulsven]

Ok so I've hit a snag and wondered if anyone could advise.

I'm trying to remove the injection pump but need a "special tool" to push it through the timing gear. Has anyone got a work around or do I need to make/buy my own SST? Is there somewhere Jo public can buy all these SSTs?

I thought I'd ask before I started slugging at the spindle with a block of wood and lump hammer!

Does anyone have any experience of getting a block rebored/honed etc? Any idea of costs and how bare they need the block to be? I assume it needs to be completely stripped. I've tried contacting a few local companies but they just keep telling me to bring it in so they can assess and advise. I only wanted a ball park price for a bore and hone.

 

[BobMurphy]

I'm trying to remove the injection pump but need a "special tool" to push it through the timing gear. Has anyone got a work around or do I need to make/buy my own SST? Is there somewhere Jo public can buy all these SSTs?

Looking at the parts diagrams, the Injector Pump shaft has a taper and a woodruff key.

I would think that a conventional 3-claw puller would do the job.

BUT . . What are you pulling off the shaft - can we see a picture please??

If its a gear pinion, does it have a threaded boss that's designed to take a threaded tube-type extractor ??

Don't hit it (please) that way leads to breakage, grief, expense, delay and earache from 'er' indoors' .

Bob.

 

[Paulsven]

Looking at the parts diagrams, the Injector Pump shaft has a taper and a woodruff key.

I would think that a conventional 3-claw puller would do the job.

BUT . . What are you pulling off the shaft - can we see a picture please??

If its a gear pinion, does it have a threaded boss that's designed to take a threaded tube-type extractor ??

Don't hit it (please) that way leads to breakage, grief, expense, delay and earache from 'er' indoors' .

Bob.

i don't think it's a puller Bob but pushes through front to back rather than pulled. i could be totally mistaken though. I can't see how it would be possible to pull the who;e pump clear. From my understanding the tapered shaft of the fuel injection pump sits in a hole of a timing gear with woodfruff key etc.

I suppose the way forward may be to remove the timing gear cover, all the timing gear and then pull the gear from the pump?? Is that what you are saying?

Have I answered my own question? lol

Only trouble is I can't get the bloomin crankshaft pulley off. From the looks of it I need another SST to lock it to undo the bolt. Perhaps I should have had the crankshaft pulley off before I removed the flywheel and mounted it on the stand so I could have locked the crankshaft via the flywheel end?

These manuals are all well and good but not basic enough for muppets like me! lol I need step by step pictures with stick men, words no longer than 2 syllables and large print!

 

[Beau]

From memory I think you'll need to get the pulley off the pump first, and then push the pump back. There are three bolts I believe securing the pump in place which are more than accessible with the engine off.

Re-boring the engine may not be worth the cost. I recommend re honing which can actually be done by yourself if you get the correct tools. I would recommend stripping the pistons out before doing this though to get a good Job done! At the same time, it's probably worth replacing the rings depending on wear. Cheap enough to replace and might as well as the engines out.

 

[BobMurphy]

I suppose the way forward may be to remove the timing gear cover, all the timing gear and then pull the gear from the pump?? Is that what you are saying?

.

Oh Dear . . Never assume anything .

I had assumed that the covers were off and that you were looking at the gear train that drives the balance shaft and injector pump.

You will have to get the gear off the pump shaft before removing the pump and you will need to have a clear view of all the timing gears so that it can all be timed to the crankshaft when you put it together. I am assuming (again) that there are alignment marks on the gears .

The time-honoured way of removing crankshaft pulley bolts is to put a high-tensile socket on the bolt, attach a large 'power bar' and rest the end of the power bar on the nearside chassis rail.

Then hit the starter button .

I couldn't possibly recommend that as a method though .

As the motor is out, I suggest you make-up a flat steel bar about 3ft long and bore holes to match the flywheel bolt spacing on the rear of the crankshaft. Bolt it to the crankshaft then use some serious torque to undo the pulley bolt while holding the crankshaft with the bar.

A couple of lengths of scaffold pole on the ends work wonders for increasing the leverage, they are an essential part on my toolkit .

Take your time and think things through before attacking the motor with large tools - it saves a lot of grief later.

Keep us posted .

Bob.

 

[Paulsven]

Ok....sooo it's been a productive day and managed to make some progress.

Went to a local machine shop to inquire about cost to rebore and hone.....between £90 and £120 +VAT dependent on the machine he has to use. If I can strip it right down he can do it for the lesser and if I leave fuel pump on etc he'd have to use the portable machine at the higher cost. Not too bad cost wise i don't think and he can source the pistons/rings etc at trade price plus a small markup!

Feeling positive now!

Attacked the rest of the block this afternoon and got the crank pulley off. I ended up having to refit some of the flywheel bolts and locking a steel bar between them and the stand mounts. 3ft power bar and a length of scaff bar to pop it! Flaming nightmare! The manuals are all well and good but I think you need to read it as a whole and not just follow the individual sections as I think there are easier ways and tricks of the trade that make things easier. My first engine out so will hopefully know a bit better next time!

Fuel pump out! Took off timing gear cover after crank pulley came off!

Now what is with these timing marks! Having read the install section and lining up the number marks etc I would have expected these numbers to be lined up but I can get them too! Only the 5's line up! The 3's and 4's seem to be 180deg out. The 1's and 2's 60deg out.





Am I looking at these wrong or is there something not right here? According to the manuals the numbers are put back matched and so surely they should be matched now? Do the different sized gears have an effect on this and will eventually match up? why would anyone mismatch the marks?

Oil cooler also out. Found some coils of swarf in there! Must have come from somewhere!





That's all for now.

Appreciate any thoughts/comments on the pics above. Should I be installing the timing gear back in as currently installed or should I do it by the book? The plot thickens...as does my brain!

 

[AndyCook]

Keep up the good work, not sure I would be brave enough to delve into an engine like this. Good effort !


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Paulsven]

Thanks for the support Andy. To be honest I haven't thought about the consequences but just enjoying the challenge! Good way to know your engine I reckon. If I can do this I can do anything! it's gone well beyond a coolant loss post and turned in to a nut and bolt rebuild!

 

[Pat]

I would suggest taking block minus sump to your reco man and getting him to check bore,bearings,crankshaft and pistons as you can't afford to make mistakes.the little cost for that will help you decide whether or not to proceed on that path or look at other avenues once you get a firm price.

 

[MisterCruiser]

This is a class thread, very interesting reading with the pics and all. Fair play for attacking it yourself, Ill be following the progress with interest, keep up the good work and pictures