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Crank Pulley bolt - would this do it?

It's £40. Milwaukee ones are £400. You have to ask why. Decent socket and a long bar I'd say. That way you know how much grunt you've put in. You are turning the nut at the centre but by blocking the starter ring gear you are actually applying less force to counter what you are putting in. It's leverage.
 
I would hardly think it was critical to have the crank pulley bolt at exactly the specified torque. If in doubt that 360 nm is essential to hold the crank pulley on without the bolt coming undone then use some "Loc tite" on it.
 
I've only just gone flipping and done it!!! :)

Found a T piece of angle iron at work (tv aerial support), jammed in flywheel, big spanner underneath horizontal bit between chassis and a a flat spot on block, then an old wooden file handle wedged between upright bit of T piece and engine block to stop it crushing sensor!

Don't know why I was so scared of it! 363Nm is not as much as I thought!.....either that or I've got a duff brand new fresh out the box certicated 250-400Nm Norbar!

Am well chuffed although easily pleased! :)
 
I bought one of these the other day for wheel nuts and shock absorber bolts and anything else that may strike my eye :)
So far it's been ok, bit heavy to use but useful don't know if it's any good compared to what the professionals use as I have never had one before, when I did my trade tools like this were all pneumatic and workshop only.
 
Well done that man. Time for a cuppa.
 
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