CV joints .... ??

[Red Oktober]

Hi guys.

need some clarification here please ...

I've got a fairly loud clunking noise from the front end while turning corners ... tis fine in straight lines ...

Cv joints on it's way out ..... am I barking up the right tree ....

 

[clivehorridge]

Probably, WOOF!

If it's a regular clunk, clunk, clunk in rhythm with the wheel rotation, I'd bet my 10 million dollar mansion that's what it is

 

[Red Oktober]

Probably, WOOF!

If it's a regular clunk, clunk, clunk in rhythm with the wheel rotation, I'd bet my 10 million dollar mansion that's what it is

yup .. exactly that. ...

right then ... off to see how much it's going to cost to fix.

 

[Red Oktober]

is Milners any good for them ..... or should I look else where

 

[clivehorridge]

is Milners any good for them ..... or should I look else where

I would say that's a question for Chris or others. You could PM him if he doesn't spot this post.

 

[Red Oktober]

I would say that's a question for Chris or others. You could PM him if he doesn't spot this post.

Cheers Clive

 

[grantw]

You may not need new ones ... a rebuild/regrease and swapping them over may word. Genuine toyota ones are around £600 each ... Milners are around £70

 

[denboy]

Did you look at the Slee's ??

 

[Chris]

The Milner ones at present are the HDK ones. They look well made and fit properly. But, in my view they are very soft. For the money and on normal driving I'd say they were fine. I'd certainly take one as an emergency spare in my vehicle. But, I put big-torqs through mine and they failed spectacularly. So for any kind of off road, I'd forget them. Toyota ones are prohibitive as are the Longfields. But, I have put Longfields in mine. Owwwwwchh. Now the real issue is, if you don't want to put genuine one in and you don't want cheap fix and flog Milner ones, just what DO you put in? Answer? I don't know. Karl may have some, but the Lezura ones don't seem to be available any more. Some more expensive ones out here are actually just supplied by Milner in the first place.
Greasing won't cure clicking. Sorry. That's just wishful thinking there buddy.

Between genuine and Longfield, I would have the Longfield at the same money.

 

[vrecha]

I'm using Milner's HDKs without a problem so far (swapped them just before the current trip).
They have gone through quite some bashing and recently even serious overheating but they still do their work without complaints.

 

[Chris]

Can't argue with that. But mine too were perfect until they weren't. No warning they went from driving nicely to this -

 

[clivehorridge]

Can't argue with that. But mine too were perfect until they weren't. No warning they went from driving nicely to this -

View attachment 9436

That's quite spectacular

 

[yogi]

Just my 2p worth about pattern part CV's, not landcruiser related but more a general observation!!

They CAN be great and up to OEM standard, they can also be total crap. I personally think that the biggest problem with pattern parts in general is quality control. FOr example, Chris, Clive and myself buy 3 aftermarket sets of CV's (or waterpumps or whatever) , mine last for about 20k miles and then click, Chris's explode and Clives do 150k.

The problem isn't that they are crap as such rather that the level of quality control isn't necessarily in the build process, so an element of luck is added to the equation. That's where you have to factor in labour costs against part costs if you have to redo them quickly or if in the case of a water pump whether a catastrophic failure could result from penny pinching for the cheapest part.

Some pattern parts are better than others and that's where research pays off.

 

[Lorin]

I also had a HDK CV disintegrate on me as I gently drove down a hill. No bang, no crunch, nothing, it just quietly melted and left me without front drive. It had done less than 10,000 and no hard off-road at all.

 

[vrecha]

That picture from Chris is really spectacular!

I'm thinking my luck can't last forever! Time to sell the truck.
But seriously, don't know what to say. Obviously Milner's CVs aren't consistently good/bad. A quality control issue, as said, probably.

 

[clivehorridge]

I also had a HDK CV disintegrate on me as I gently drove down a hill. No bang, no crunch, nothing, it just quietly melted and left me without front drive. It had done less than 10,000 and no hard off-road at all.

Well my problem is the lack of availability of pattern parts here, so I was forced to get Mr. T replacements. Money well spent in the long run, maybe. They were expensive (can't remember the price TBH) but only fitted once.

I've given them a hard time off-road and although only 130k Kms, they're still going strong with no clicking! Beats 10k Miles, I would have been very disappointed with that, however cheap they were.

Like yogi says, cheaper parts are a lottery, but IMO the thought of having to do the job again (even though the labour charge is cheaper here) would p!ss me off big time, especially if something failed me on the mountain

Just on the subject of labour charges, I had a cam belt, bearing & tensioner replacement, all suspension bushes renewed, hand-brake adjusted and front pads changed with all brakes checked, cam valve clearances checked and a shim replaced, rear G/box mounting replaced and the engine, G/box, front and rear axle oils changed + engine oil filter, for the equivalent price of appx 300 quid in labour.

Not as cheap as doing it yourself, but not bad IMO. The price of the Mr. T parts was a different story

 

[yogi]

Have to envy you there Clive!!

What sort of price are Mr T parts in Romania??

Sat the timing belt, tensioner etc?

Just curious because I've always noticed that worldwide brands such as coke etc are often a lot cheaper in poorer countries when they are also made in that country, but other things such as good brand power tools looked quite expensive.

 

[Towpack]

Just on the subject of labour charges, I had a cam belt, bearing & tensioner replacement, all suspension bushes renewed, hand-brake adjusted and front pads changed with all brakes checked, cam valve clearances checked and a shim replaced, rear G/box mounting replaced and the engine, G/box, front and rear axle oils changed + engine oil filter, for the equivalent price of appx 300 quid in labour.

Not as cheap as doing it yourself, but not bad IMO. The price of the Mr. T parts was a different story

Having that little lot done professionally over here wouldn't leave you much change out of £1k.

 

[grantw]

Greasing won't cure clicking. Sorry. That's just wishful thinking there buddy..

It was more the swapping of the sides than the greasing ... to at least extend life a little.

Labour for my front axle rebuild (which included swapping the cv joints over) on mine was £540 which wasn't including parts.

 

[clivehorridge]

Have to envy you there Clive!!

What sort of price are Mr T parts in Romania??

Sat the timing belt, tensioner etc?

Just curious because I've always noticed that worldwide brands such as coke etc are often a lot cheaper in poorer countries when they are also made in that country, but other things such as good brand power tools looked quite expensive.

I'll try to dig out the billings yogi. As I don't intend selling this one EVER, I'm not very diligent in keeping papers, but I'll see what I can find. The other aspect here, if I don't want an official receipt for the job, I get the labour VAT free It's a matter of trust, but I've been using this service for 7 years now with only the occasional complaint which they've always dealt with quibble free without papers.