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Dreaded brake bleed issue

thanks Paul, some things best bought from dealership but some parts must achieve quality standards its a case of finding them, £470 for a master cylinder without trying to find a cheaper alternative is as reckless and buying one for £35 from ECP .. did you get by with those items you had substandard or bin them?
I managed to get by with the front caliper. The load sensing valve needed assembling correctly to get it to function. The master cylinder ended up in the bin. As the master cyl was replicating the problem that I had before fitting, I was convinced it wasn't that and had to be something else in the braking system. But, after a lot of head scratching I decided it was a faulty item and replaced it with genuine.... this sorted my issue.
I now get all my 'expensive' bits from Amayama.
 
I thought that I’d give Amayana a try recently (just a few small bits). Good communications and prices, dispatched quickly, arrived in the UK quickly…and now they’re apparently on they’re way after having been sitting in UK customs for a week. One aspect of brexit (if it happens) that doesn’t get mentioned much is customs clearance. When I was transporting stuff around Europe before the free movement of goods came in, the paperwork was a pain, T forms for normal goods or carnets for musical or other performance gear that was only a temporary import, TIR forms and sealing etc. etc., and sometimes days of thumb twiddling waiting for customs clearance (4 days on the Spanish border once even while having the correct paperwork and using an agent ). Rant over.
 
Yes echo some of that, the half shaft seal, Bosch batteries, but after 10 years the reliability has been excellent and if had thrown money at some problems that would have been wasted .. But with a problem like sponge brake pedal and brake hydraulics generally.. The genuine part is preffered .. Wonder if Toyota sell a kit ....
 
They list a kit. I made a tool years ago for polishing the insides of M/C's and I've never had to buy a M/C. It's important to keep the fluid clean and then the cylinder will not corrode on the inside. Off roading in water and damp air will let moisture into the reservoir and the fluid can absorb this causing a corrosive mixture. Years ago I used silicone brake fluid to prevent this and also the stripping of paint off calipers.
 
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Replaced the brake master cylinder last year with a no-name brand model which is all I could ge a short notice. Working, but have some pulsing coming through the pedal. Will that be warped discs?

IMG_20170304_163717.jpg
 
Typically, yes. A warped disc will give you this symptom. Nothing is ever guaranteed, but it's where I'd start looking. Warping a disc can be due to pots on the caliper not working in opposition so that an unequal force is applied across the disc.
 
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Discs of unequal thickness or with corrosion/damaged spots on can cause judder and brake pedal vibration. I recut my rear ones years ago but they ended up .002" varying in thickness. It was amazing how much the brake pedal went up and down especially when they were in phase. When out of phase the brakes felt normal so although the pistons were all moving in and out nothing could be felt through the brake pedal.
 
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