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Dreaded brake bleed issue

This is a genuine Toyota oil filter for my 80 in Australia. I know it is genuine because it came from Toyota and I just took the photos but I don't know how you are going to distinguish genuine from copy in your environment. There's no hologram but this box is about 10 years old so the new ones might have it.

oil filter box.jpg oil filter.jpg
 
I don't like not knowing when there are ways to find out! So I stripped open the filter... So now what?

IMG_20160817_164602.jpg IMG_20160817_164618.jpg IMG_20160817_164646.jpg IMG_20160817_164704.jpg
 
Remember years ago when paper filters were just coming in they did not have non-return valves. So, every time you switched off the oil would drain back into the sump and have to be pumped up again on switch on. It think it was Volvo that first put non-return valves in their filters, though I could be wrong with that.
 
I think if the filter bowl had the mounting at the top the bowl would stay full of oil.

The BMC engines were like the latter. In 1973 my friend bought a brand new MG midget. On first service the main dealer mechanic did not make sure the bowl was inside the groove before tightening the bolt up. The bowl was therefore off centre with no sealing. He drove off and the big ends went ! They said it was a faulty filter !!
 
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You mean a faulty fitter don't you Frank…:whistle:
 
At one place that I worked at, the big bosses wifes Zodiac came in for a service. A spanner was left on the crank nut and when the car was started it took out the radiator. She was billed for a new rad, the excuse being that it was leaking.......which I suppose was true !
 
A mate of mine took his allegro 1100 on holiday, it was a wreck when he bought it and Lo and behold, the whole bottom end let go. The AA towed him to a garage and there he had a half engine recon fitted.

He drove it steady coming home but by the time he got close to Brum, it was rattling like a can of dried peas.

So I had a look at it no oil leaks and the dip stick showing full, and beautifully clean oil. I started it up and the hammering made me shut off immediately.

Out with the engine, big ends and mains shot to pieces. New shells bought and I suspected the oil pump. It was a brand new pump, but when I took it off it was bone dry inside.

The faulty fitter in this case had put the oil pump gasket on the wrong way around, neatly blocking off the oil ways to and from the pump!

I wrote a report with some photos and the garage covered my charges and the parts. I wasn't a business so couldn't write a VAT receipt, but I hand wrote a bill with parts receipts, and they accepted it.
 
It does make one wonder Clive. It's common sense isn't it + training on top = foolproof. Why do such "mistakes" occur ?
 
frank rabbets said:
It does make one wonder Clive. It's common sense isn't it + training on top = foolproof. Why do such "mistakes" occur ?
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I put it down to no interest in the job, just doing, with no pride or self satisfaction.

Better off pushing a broom in the street and doing no harm or damage.
 
clivehorridge said:
A mate of mine took his allegro 1100 on holiday, it was a wreck when he bought it and Lo and behold, the whole bottom end let go. The AA towed him to a garage and there he had a half engine recon fitted.
Click to expand...

When the Allegro (or was it spelt aggro?) was in development, a friends uncle who worked for BL was tasked with taking one out with a caravan in tow to see how it got on. All went well…… until they tried to open the rear doors…the original stretch limo.
 
Forgot what this thread was all about! Oh yes, brakes! Been a nice journey through oil filters and fakes to Allegro's :). Have got the word out for an original master cylinder, could take some time here but I'm sure one will surface.
So who's going to gut one of their old oil filters so I can see how it compares to what I am sold?:icon-wink:
 
is the bore of your MC so scored you cant hone and re kit it?
 
Hello All, same problem on my 80, I figure it deserves a brake overhaul since the pedal does slowly sink very low, despite much bleeding .. however just quote by Toyota £470 and after a few purchases from roughtrax so far found their stuff good quality
I did hear of a dealer selling at good discount, any advice?
 
fubar said:
.... after a few purchases from roughtrax so far found their stuff good quality...
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My experience with RoughTrax has been different. Their load sensing valve was not assembled correctly and leaked. Their front brake calliper was assembled with incorrect bolts. Their master cylinder gave me as much grief as the old one I had removed and ended up being replace with a genuine one.
I doubt very much I will be using them in the future as it is simply false economy..... Genuine Toyota always now.
 
thanks Paul, some things best bought from dealership but some parts must achieve quality standards its a case of finding them, £470 for a master cylinder without trying to find a cheaper alternative is as reckless and buying one for £35 from ECP .. did you get by with those items you had substandard or bin them?
 
These LC's are expensive to maintain. That's a sad fact. In the owners handbook it says "only use genuine Toyota parts". There are many people on this forum, including me, who ignored that ORDER and paid the price. Never, never again.
 
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