Elecronic Diesel Tuning Devices

[Shayne]

I obviously dont understand how this works .

To my thinking the normal factory set up sees gas build to a set pressure that spins the turbo , when that pressure is exceeded the wastegate opens releasing gas and causing the turbo to stop working . If an in-line boost controller was introduced it would allow more pressure to build (allowing the turbo to run longer) before releasing the higher pressure gas in exactly the way it would normally .

This is were my lack of lingo causes problems .

Is it the actuator that allows pressure to build ? if so the manual boost controller might be looked at as adding another actuator , one that will allow more pressure to build for the factory set up even comes into play and without leaking thus not allowing the wastegate to open slightly before it should . This turns the factory actuator into nothing more than a release valve because as soon as the after market booster opens so will the factory one as the pressure that hits it is likely far higher than its set to accept .

Am i way off the mark in my thinking ?

 

[mrdelmonti]

You sound like you're there or thereabouts.

The only reason I said you don't want to stick in the boost controller without a gauge is because you won't really know just how much boost it's letting through without a gauge, so you'll find it difficult to get it dialled in to a "safe" setting.

 

[Shayne]

Ah i see said the blind man . The manual boost controller i imagined actually has a dial , so i'm thinking put the tee piece into the line and turn the adjuster until the dial won't exceed about 14psi no matter what i do with the throttle . So yes i guess we've been thinking along parallel lines heading in the same direction but never actually meeting .

I would want to see what Toyota states as max pressure for the turbo in print before deciding what psi to go for .

 

[fridayman]

If that is £400 including the dump pipe, it is a bargain!

 

[Chas]

I spoke to prospeed a couple of months ago , i think they said about 350-400 quid for a full 3" stainless exhaust made to order , Chas suggested them.

It was about 2/3 years ago I had my 3" exhaust from Charlie, and I think the price was about £470. I do love the sound it makes, not overly loud but nice and throaty, you can hear it at Lincomb next week.

 

[Shayne]

Sensible people lower prices if they want to stay in business through a recession , maybe the world went bankrupt to save me a few quid

 

[Beau]

The reason for the boost guague is purely for set up, but as I said the ECU limits boost anyway so you'll be able to dial it up until the ECU puts the car into limp mode and then dial it back down again, guess work, but is it the safest way, I dont know? If putting one in place there is a hose in the intake side middle section that loops into a circular chamber and back out, thats meant to be the place...anywhere on the intake will give you the boost reading.

And yes, your understanding on how the wastegate works is correct, by putting a additional actuator in place (boost valve) you are just stopping the boost creep from happening and also upping the boost pressure.

 

[Shayne]

I am thinking the ECU can only protect the turbo by telling the factory actuator to release pressure . I don't believe the ECU safeguard will work as the aftermarket manual boost controller is now regulating pressure .
Would i not be right in thinking the factory actuator is nothing more than a valve that opens the wastegaste using released pressure ?

As i see it the factory actuator could remain open all the time once the aftermarket one is introduced and it wouldn't make any difference because it has no physical means of opening the wastegate until the aftermarket actuator opens anyway .

I could be wrong but it seems unlikely to me the wastegate has any powered mechanical means of opening , i imagine it is only a lightly sprung flap which is blown open ?

 

[fridayman]

It can put the ecu into limp mode

 

[Beau]

Shayne, if the ECU senses the turbo is overboosting, it will limit the amount of fuel being taken in meaning your revs will be limited to like 2000, so the turbo wont reach max boost or have a lot of load on it and therefore it wont damage the engine.

The actuator works by a very very stiff spring to which it's designed to start oppening around 7psi and fully open closer to 10-12psi. It's all mechanical and very simple indeed. However not very effective as you get boost leak at low boost levels where the boost could have been help instead of leaking at earlier stages.

 

[Shayne]

Yes Beau i was just guessing the ECU must tell something to do something , now i think about it limiting fuel is the obvious safeguard . And the leak is what i want to cure , i think if the wastegate couldn't open until the max pressure was reached the turbo would be employed more often improving everything . The turbo should not need to work harder it should just work more often .

 

[Shayne]

Think i have a pretty fair idea now of what i want to do , what need now is a dummies guide with pics on how to do it .

 

[Beau]

I've been quite busy but when possible I'll post some pics of where you need to connect up everything!

 

[Shayne]

Cheers Beau that would be great i haven't even got around to opening the bonnet and trying to work out which bit does what yet but past experience , with bikes tells me you only really find out whats what when you take a spanner to things .

 

[silvercruiser]

Im still watching with interest

 

[Shayne]

It all makes sense though Joe don't you think , an electronic gadget can't possibly add power or performance by itself . That's what got me thinking , if electronics can adjust and improve mechanical parts then why can't the same parts be adjusted manually with a spanner ?

 

[silvercruiser]

It all makes sense though Joe don't you think , an electronic gadget can't possibly add power or performance by itself . That's what got me thinking , if electronics can adjust and improve mechanical parts then why can't the same parts be adjusted manually with a spanner ?

Especially with the fairly low tech 1KZTE

 

[Shayne]

http://forum.ih8mud.com/90-series-tech/170126-fuel-pump-adjustment.html

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14193


Back pressure is not a friend of the turbo vehicle. On a turbo diesel it will make exhaust temps hotter under load.
The 1KZ-TE has a severe restriction at the cast flange right behind the turbo. Pulling off the muffler will do little to no good unless this is addressed.
I fabricated a new flange with a 3" outlet (more than double the original). I ran 3" all the way back with a muffler. Its a little loud but not too bad. You hear a lot of turbo.


http://www.toyotadiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?5443-Took-off-throttle-plate-on-1KZ-TE


http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=135134


Its the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation valve.

It feeds into the end of the inlet manifold and is connected by a pipe to the exhaust manifold.

Easy to remove if the engine is on the bench, but I would consider this to be the last thing to check as its a pig of a job with the motor in the car.

If you remove the engine from the equasion, this is what the EGR assembly looks like





In reality, its hidden down behind the throttle body next to the bulkhead.





With the heat shields removed, the exhaust take-off is similarly difficult to get at. The nuts WILL be siezed .





Check everything else before contemplating this - it will drive you mad .

 

[CAT]

I am also going to watch this thread with interest, I have already blanked off the EGR and was really considering an electronic chip device. From the sound of it I am better off manually adjusting fuel and boost settings, I also would really like a EGT and boost gauge and it sounds like I can do everything at the one time. Hoping to see some more explanations and get some links for nice gauges that I can sit on my dash!

 

[Beau]

Will do a update on monday night guys, stay tuned