Elecronic Diesel Tuning Devices

[Beau]

Strange that you get no black smoke on start up revving but you do when taking off... When the engines not under load it'll use less fuel meaning more unburnt fuel I imagine... More fuel on take off so surely less black smoke, something doesn't sound too right!

And be careful with turning up the spill control valve too much, I did that and when I revved the engine it basically ran away with it self nearly red lining it self! Had to physically block the intake to stop the engine, was a scary moment! And the mechanical pumps actually don't utilise any electronic form of fuelling, like using a spill control valve. It does have one but it's known at a stop/start solenoid as it's only used to drop and go back up to block or open the valve to start or shut the engine off. The mechanical pumps are purely mechanical (don't ask me how) and surprisingly do a good job at providing the engines with fuel. The main reason Toyota changed to the electronic pump was due to Economy, emissions and better efficiency but from what I've read you need a mechanical pump to push these engines. The electronic pump just doesn't have the capacity and strength to control and push the fuelling to the engine, especially not without a well managed ECU/Tune box in place!

 

[Shayne]

Question for Beau i guess , Can i T both the boost gauge and the boost controller into the rubber pipe that runs from actuator to turbo ?

 

[Beau]

Question for Beau i guess , Can i T both the boost gauge and the boost controller into the rubber pipe that runs from actuator to turbo ?

Shayne, when you put the boost controller into place it isn't going to be run as a T but instead like a straight piece. What I mean by this, is you cut the vacum line from the turbo side to the actuator and put your controller in place. With the Boost Gauge you, this you T off on the AFTER section of the controller unit. The hose that runs to the actuator. This should give you the most acurate way of measuring the boost.

Some people also take a spur off the intake which is possible as well. I believe taking it from the actuator will provide you with better measurements anyway. If you plan on boosting above 15, I believe you may then need to trick the ECU into thinking you're boosting lower so that it doesn't send the engine into Limp mode. This is of course if you can reach those levels safely first. Then we can talk about this... But from factory you should be able to get a couple PSI more.

 

[Shayne]

I guess that means yes lol . The controller nearer the actuator and the gauge closer to the wastegate yeah . It shouldn't matter if i have to add a couple of inches in length to the pipe should it ?

 

[Shayne]

I have searched high and low all over the web only to end up finding the advice i need on my own thread Thanks Steve H i've no idea how info below completely slipped my mind .

OK we are talking sensors here that need to be moved which means soldering in some wire , it may be overly cautious but i will disconnect the battery before i start because the sensors do talk to the ECU and i don't want that getting in a sulk . What wires should i use ? will near as damn it suffice or will anything other than an exact diameter match alter the signal to give a false reading ? I don't know how the sensors work ?

Shayne. As you look at that picture of your intercooler the light coloured connector on the left is your air temperature sensor which on your truck before you fitted the cooler was in the long black intake pipe that runs from the filter housing. The other black connector on the right with the orangey/pinkly coloured filter on is the boost sensor for the turbo. On your inlet manifold towards the front of the engine you should see the same set up bolted to the side of the manifold but on my truck this filter is a grey colour. Don't know if connecting these up instead of the originals will make any difference. Can't see that there would be much difference in boost readings at the intercooler but temperature wise there should be a few degree's difference inside the intercooler to the inlet pipe. Also make sure that the boost sensor filter is cleaned out as this caused me to loose power as while back.

 

[Beau]

Extending those vacuum lines won't do anything shayne, so that's fine.

And regarding your ECU boost sensor, you won't have a problem extending wires, just make sure it's done correctly and shrink wrapped when all done!

 

[Shayne]

Cheers Beau it will be interesting to see if moving it makes a difference .

 

[Shayne]

Been looking into upping the boost and can't see the purpose of having a boost gauge permanently installed . Of course i will need one to set things up but as far as i can tell you choose your max psi then lock it in and the gauge serves no further purpose . Am i missing something ?

 

[Beau]

Been looking into upping the boost and can't see the purpose of having a boost gauge permanently installed . Of course i will need one to set things up but as far as i can tell you choose your max psi then lock it in and the gauge serves no further purpose . Am i missing something ?

No, you're right with what you're saying. These aren't high performance engines and there's no need to constantly monitor the boost. But whilst adjusting and tinkering with the boost I'll have it in place so you can monitor and adjust it for a while until you are 100% happy! To be honest, you can probably adjust it even without one as the engine will know if it's boosting too high and cut power to the engine, but it's not the safest way anyway.

 

[Shayne]

Cheers Beau i don't fancy using limp mode as a guide so i figure to use something like this low psi gauge http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ez-Flo-45...US_Measuring_Layout_Tools&hash=item2a39361cc1 to tell me what i'm boosting at now because its likely to give a more accurate reading before deciding how much to up the boost . I've read people setting the boost controller at 20 psi without problems but i would rather see what i've got and maybe add 3psi until i'm happy i've got the best balance between boost and reliability .

 

[fridayman]

To run 20 psi you might also need a manual fuel pump.

 

[Shayne]

I'm only fitting a controller because the wastegate on a truck as old as mine must leak . Of course the temptation to up the boost will be there and i will probably succumb to it but mainly i'm fitting it because its the last thing i can do that might alter anything . I will never get the fuel air ratio throughout the range right with diesel engines being so forgiving which means i will never get the most out of the intercooler and exhaust and other mods . After much reading i now understand the Tunits work by interpreting readings sent to the ecu and altering how much fuel the pump delivers in accordance . So if its set up on a rolling road the fuel air mix should be computer accurate at any revs and that should tie all the mods together for optimum performance .

 

[Beau]

You'll definitely get a couple more PSI out the turbo before mixture leans back out. I don't know how much the electronic pump can cope so I'm interested in seeing the results you get.

 

[Shayne]

I think the crux of it is a mechanical pump allows a very forgiving diesel engine greater room for error so if the electronic pump is limited by comparison then its ultimately a good thing . I did find the thread of someone who seemed to have open access to a rolling road , no pics or anything to confirm it but the op did seem well respected by his peers so ............... ?

He claimed after much experimentation his best set up was 14.5psi as power peaked there and adding boost beyond that served no purpose .

 

[fridayman]

He claimed after much experimentation his best set up was 14.5psi as power peaked there and adding boost beyond that served no purpose .

With which type of pump? Do you have a link that you can share?

 

[Beau]

On the electronic pump you may be right about that 14.5 PSI as from there on the pump is limited with the fuel, but with the mechanical pump I have heard of people upping the boost further, and in cases people have actually changed the complete turbo for a better one to push the engine further. Of course, there's only so much bang these engines will take before they go bang themselves.

But I've seen some people get crazy power out of these things on stock internals. Like always though, keeping them running cool is so important.

 

[Shayne]

Sorry Fridayman it was just a random search for 1kzte boost i must have read 50 threads and of all of them that one seemed most feasible .

Beau i've read plenty from people saying they know a guy who runs at 20 psi and the likes , I've petty much dismissed those claims as people pushing others to take risks they won't themselves take . A turbo can't produce infinite power so upping the boost beyond peak power is just forcing it to spin far longer than its designed to risking turbo failure for no real purpose .

 

[Beau]

Sorry Fridayman it was just a random search for 1kzte boost i must have read 50 threads and of all of them that one seemed most feasible .

Beau i've read plenty from people saying they know a guy who runs at 20 psi and the likes , I've petty much dismissed those claims as people pushing others to take risks they won't themselves take . A turbo can't produce infinite power so upping the boost beyond peak power is just forcing it to spin far longer than its designed to risking turbo failure for no real purpose .

I've read the same, not too sure if it's on the standard Turbo or not though... I'm more worried on the engine side at that pressure than the turbo if I'm honest with you. The turbo's are known to be very reliable. The engine side of things, not so much, especially when we'll be dealing with a bigger combustion and heat! Plus if you get the mixture lean I think this is worse on a diesel than running it slightly rich. But let's stick with the thread here, we want reliability and small improvements, we're not building a race car here!

 

[fridayman]

... especially when we'll be dealing with a bigger combustion and heat! Plus if you get the mixture lean I think this is worse on a diesel than running it slightly rich.

On a diesel running rich or over fuelling is worse than running lean (opposite to petrol engines) as the excess diesel just ends up turning into excess heat.

 

[Beau]

On a diesel running rich or over fuelling is worse than running lean (opposite to petrol engines) as the excess diesel just ends up turning into excess heat.

From what I read, it's a bit of a grey area... I've read increasing the fuel and making it richer decreases excess Nitrogen and NOx which is where the high heat comes from. However the temperatures I'm referring to are internal readings in the cylinders. Excess volume temperature as the hot air leaves the engine is higher. For example, at idle the cylinder temperatures are extremely high due to the high NOx count in the cylinders due to a very lean mixture, however the hot air leaving the engine and entering the turbo's will be lower. As you increase the mixture and it richen out the opposite effect takes place, which is where you end up with a lower cylinder temp compared with exiting air. Anyway, that's just my thought, I could be wrong