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Front and rear power points (for fridge)

Animal Mother

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Sep 27, 2016
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wales
Will the front and/or rear power points in the 120 run a refrigerator?

The fridge has a max draw of 5.5A at 12v.

Can the socket and wiring cope?
 
Hi

I think the socket says 120w, so it should supply 10amp. So your well in range.

Gary
 
You may find that they are only powered when the ingnition is on. Not so good for a fridge unless you don’t mind it being off when your away from the car.

I’ve added 2 permanent live sockets in my truck and the fridge currently runs off them fine. Eventually I’ll run a dedicated power supply just for the fridge.
 
You may find that they are only powered when the ingnition is on. Not so good for a fridge unless you don’t mind it being off when your away from the car.

I’ve added 2 permanent live sockets in my truck and the fridge currently runs off them fine. Eventually I’ll run a dedicated power supply just for the fridge.

What's the longest you've ran a fridge without running the car?
 
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There is a mod you can do on the 120 which makes the aux power points live all the time. When I looked at it, it was straight forward, but can't recall the details now
 
Ha, I will search later on and see if I can find it
 
Can't find the link, but essentially you remove the acc relay, and bridge the output to permanently live...

From the interweb
The boys on the LCOOL forum have found a way. Pull the "ACC" relay from the fuse box under the bonnet and bridge the 2 large terminals with male spade fittings and a bit of wire. Plug it back into the fuse panel. Just have to watch how much load you put on.

Please note I have not done this, and at your own risk...
 
There is a mod you can do on the 120 which makes the aux power points live all the time. When I looked at it, it was straight forward, but can't recall the details now

I remember reading that too...sadly can't remember where, or how to!

I've bought piggyback fuse holders to wire a permanent live usb out, when I get round to it. You could always go down that route.
 
Can't find the link, but essentially you remove the acc relay, and bridge the output to permanently live...

From the interweb


Please note I have not done this, and at your own risk...

Thank you. But I fear that flames would be in my future. The standard setup will do for now until I have a dedicated dual charge system and dedicated socket arrangement.
 
If you want to start the truck the next day, i would highly recommend not using the starter batteries. Even a manual.plug that you can switch on/off to charge a third battery which then runs the fridge, with the isolation etc from main circuit is the way to go.
 
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