Front Diff

[Tommo&Claire]

Guys,

I'm having a problem with what i believe to be my front diff, or more specifically the pinion or carrier bearings within. I do not have the tools or the expertise to do the job myself and i must have contacted a dozen companies in this area and not one of them will touch a diff?!?!?

Does anyone have any ideas or details of places reasonably close to me (don't want to drive the thing too far) that would do this job as currently i'm "truckless" which i'm sure you'll all agree is unacceptable, particularly as its my daily drive.


TVM

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Can you get the diff off yourself? I'd have a look at it for you if it's off the truck. Always an option if there really is no one down there to sort it for you. Sorry I didn't have more time to chat to you about it on Sunday, I don't know where the rest of the day disappeared to but I meant to catch up with you again later in the day.

 

[Tommo&Claire]

I think so yes. Chris gave me a quick brief on how to do it.

If the diff is coming off anyway is it wise to replace all the bearing and oil seals in there just to avoid it having to come off again?

That would be really helpful actually, i'll drive it up to you??

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Best bet is to take it apart and see what it needs. If it needs something I don't already have or can get at a sensible price in the UK I will be doing another order in a few weeks we can get them on. Drive it up to me or courier it may be cheaper, it won't be a while you wait job but will turn it around as quickly as I can.

 

[Julian]

Tommo, is it worth putting an ARB in at the same time, much stronger diff set up

 

[Tommo&Claire]

lol!!! Claire would kill me!!

How much will one of those set me back these days?

 

[sae70]

There may be some info in my front diff thread that may help you out Tommo, its worth a read I believe that I even talk about various price options from 2nd hand complete front diffs from breakers through to complete exchange refurbs with different kinds of warranties

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...rre-clonk-jolt-from-the-front-end-of-Fiery!!!

OK, so last night went outside & weighed up the options suggested for getting the diff/axle housing out In the end I went with Chris's method of leaving everything as is & just removing the super long bolt from the top wishbone Now you do need to remove the flappy plastic covers that are either side of the upper wishbone when viewed from inside the wheel arch. You can then easily disconnect the ABS sensor wire & un-clip it from on-top of the suspension turret. You also need to remove the battery on the drivers side & a wiring loom clip & a relay from under the battery tray then the drivers side bolt will easily just pull straight out with no effort It's the same on the passenger side, I guess if you have two batteries then you'll need to remove the other battery (I don't so didn't ) but you will need to remove one wiring loom clip a clip for an air con pipe & another relay thing (four 10mm set screws) & again the bolt just pulls straight out with no effort what-so-ever (Oh don't forget the ABS sensor wire on this side as well ). Then with a small lever between the diff housing & each drive shaft (one @ a time ) I just popped them both out & moved them up & clear of the axle housing

Total time for job 30 minuets

Now just need to drop the axle housing

Will post some pictures later

Here's some photos

Forgot to mention that you need to remove the sprung 'C' clip from the flexi brake pipe to allow it to pull through a little

Bought myself a new tool from Halfords the other day It's a 16" 1/2" Breaker Bar & it's just a beautiful little tool, not so long that you can't use while laid under the truck, but long enough to be useful No more banging on the end of my 1/2" ratchet with the palm of my hand until a stubborn bolt gives in Did I mention it's a lovely little tool I've also already managed to get two other uses out of it so far One as a trolley jack handle & also as a lever to free Fierys front diff, that contrary to popular belief wasn't the bugger to get out as expected with the pinion flange on & infact just fell out of place, hitting the floor with a thud

Good Luck

 

[Gary Stockton]

Silly question - but what do you lot do with your 'working' vehicles? Do you not have a friendly Tiffy (REME type) to help diagnose at least, on base?

 

[Chris Green90]

I think the general consensus has been in the past that a front locker on the 90 is more hassle than it worth. I have always loved the idea but after speaking to Chris at the weekend it would appear that all you end up doing is breaking half shafts.

Then again I did have a couple of small sherry's so may be misquoting him. If I am wrong I'll go get my wallet.

Chris

 

[fridayman]

I think the general consensus has been in the past that a front locker on the 90 is more hassle than it worth. I have always loved the idea but after speaking to Chris at the weekend it would appear that all you end up doing is breaking half shafts.

That's the impression that I have too.

 

[Chris]

Well not quite what I said, but in truth the front end of a Collie is not as strong as you may like and adding a locker does increase the strain on the weaker parts. Used sensibly, it's an asset for sure. Ask Trevor and Tony but it's not like adding super turbo off road go anywhere mode. It's one small stage you can add before getting the winch out. I'd think that trying to get up a snowy hill in Winter it would be fantastic, but when you are utterly stuck, don't think that clicking this in will un stick you every time. You are still limited by front IFS articulation I'm afraid. Question is whether Tommo off roads his enough to warrant the additional cost.

Listening to it, the noise was constant and not a whine, more like a rumble. The diff was certainly hotter than I would expect a front diff to be and hottest toward the pinion end. The noise did not change when on and off the power but was slightly different if you cornered hard left to right. Did not sound like wheel bearing and in any case one of these had already been replaced as suspect.

The drain plug is utterly stuck and if you round that off, you'll need the diff out anyway I'd suspect. Not a huge effort to drop the diff off on one of these. As I said, I'd take the front wheels off, drop the front prop and spin everything by hand to see what you can feel moving around. You have to do that anyway! You could take the wheels off, drop the rear prop instead and lock the CD then run the engine in gear and see what's happening there. Use a dowel or something to listen to various parts of the drive train. All that lot is less than 30 mins so worth doing before diving straight in.

Chris

 

[Tommo&Claire]

think i'll be doing that before anything else then!