Injector Swap

[karl2000]

I think all those numbers look quite good to me. Have you got a manual or an auto, and did you have the aircon or any accessories turned on? If so turn everything off so theres no load on it, and see what % you get for the calculate load value. Thats a good indicator of overall health apparently. (ideally the closer to 12 the better on an auto - manual is different). The higher it is, the closer you are to needing injectors! (just a rule of thumb but...)

Injector feedback for 4 is well in spec I think.

I think you're alright - nice engine!

 

[TonyP]

I think you want to be +-3, especially when cold, so those look fine to me

 

[mwhtc]

I think all those numbers look quite good to me. Have you got a manual or an auto, and did you have the aircon or any accessories turned on? If so turn everything off so theres no load on it, and see what % you get for the calculate load value. Thats a good indicator of overall health apparently. (ideally the closer to 12 the better on an auto - manual is different). The higher it is, the closer you are to needing injectors! (just a rule of thumb but...)

Injector feedback for 4 is well in spec I think.

I think you're alright - nice engine!

It's an auto, and I think the aircon - sorry "aircon", fecking thing don't work - was on. And those values were when they were warm because Techstream was such a PITA to get running.

I'll have a sleep on it, I think I might just do them as everything is off and I'm doing the EGR stuff. It is a bit bag of spanners though when cold, noticeably so, and took longer to go away the warmer it got. The fuel lines to the injectors have been off once before, you can see with the nuts, and I think it went to Toyota for washers in the past. So while the 3 might be ok and the 4th is in spec, it couldn't be too far away from it being due.

 

[karl2000]

I think warm values are what you want and its more numbers than just the injector feedbacks to look at - ie main injection period, injection volume, pilot 1/2. Also fuel pressure worth looking at (is it jumping or relatively stable and near the target) especially if you have the old SCV. I think they all look alright on yours. The other thing to check - Is the oil pickup clear?

I dont think the numbers suggest they need doing, but sooner or later everything does and if you're half way there anyway and in the mood, why not! Will save you doing it later, when you're not in the mood!

The load you had of about 14% would probably drop by another % or so if you had the aircon off which would take you very close to the 12 target. Another indicator all is probably good.

 

[Tractionman]

As per Karl. All the parts needed may be cheaper now than later...?... maybe ?

 

[mwhtc]

I've not gone further than this, as I'm about to find my endoscope and inspect the pick up. I was going to do that anyway, but this is what I've got right now.

I'm not an expert, but I think I'm right to assume this sludge at the top shouldn't be there?

 

[TonyP]

Nooo, that does not look good at all. I'd be curious to know what state the oil pickup strainer looks like.

Also curious as to the injector seats and seals.

This is mine when I changed the injectors

 

[Juddian]

Hell fire how many thousands of miles did that poor engine have to endure between oil changes, i don't believe it was just injector seals responsible.

Seen two engines with carbon build up as bad.
One was the typical neglected Ford CVH lump, and one V12 MB engine stripped down on my MB indy's bench, both cars suffered neglect of fresh decent oil for many thousands of miles.

 

[mwhtc]

Struggling to get the damn app to work for longer than 2 seconds on the phone for the endoscope.

If the pick up is clear, would I be alright to just clean the sludge I can see?

@Juddian From memory the last Toyota service was at 100,000 miles, then I've got receipts for the last 15/20,000 miles. This is the first service I've done since I got it last year. So if it's done anything well, who knows. 20/30,000 miles unaccounted for in terms of servicing?

 

[Tractionman]

I just used my phone with flash to get decent enough pictures to confirm.

 

[Juddian]

Yeah, i've also seen a stripped down PSA 1.6 Diesel (of doom), poor little neglected bugger went some 30k miles between oil changes, resulting unsurprisngly in a blown turbo due to oil starvation, but when they stripped it the entire inside of the engine including the intake ports looked like your rocker area.
It was an Irish based turbo specialist who stripped and provided dozens of photos.

Be interesting to see if the inside of the sump/crankcase show similar carbon build up, i would definately have the small lower sump off and judge then if the main sumpe needs to come off as well for clean up.
The problem with such build up is what to do about it, flushing oils i don;t think will tackle such build ups, then yopu have the danger of clumps breaking off and blocking the oil pump intake.
You've got lots of cleaning ahead, good luck.

 

[mwhtc]

I've managed to get it working, and took a video of it. It looks quite clean in an honesty for the bit I can see. As in, all that you can see through the sump plug hole.

I was expecting something similar to the head, full of gunk, but in all honesty it looks quite clean. So I'm going to leave the sump as it is. As for the rocker, I'm going to clean the bits holding on to the injectors as they look like they have the worst of it. In and around the cams, while it looks black, it doesn't look like sludge.

I've also managed to smash the screen on my phone by laying on the ground. I'm having a wonderful day.

 

[TonyP]

The small sump is easy to take off and will give you a better idea as to what it looks like. Worth the effort in my opinion. Just get some sealer for when you put it back.

 

[mwhtc]

I'll take a look at it, probably tomorrow as I'm running out of time for today.

The injector closest to the front is stuck solid. It will not give an inch. The other 3 are fine and loose, the one closest the bulkhead was initially stuck but freed up of its own accord.

Any solution to an injector that's stuck fast before I go all caveman on it?

 

[mwhtc]

Really sorry for hijacking the thread, only realised this.

Got the stuck one out, have a look at the state of it. The stuck one is at the top.

Closer...

Notice, if you will, the top one doesn't have a washer. I've not taken it off, so it either never had one, it's burnt away to nothing, or it's still stuck in the engine!!!

 

[mwhtc]

It was stuck in the engine, I got it out by using a pick tool.

Fourby4diesel makes this look so bloody easy, but he definitely earns his rate I can tell you all.

 

[TonyP]

This was my no 1 injector when I took it out, so similar to yours

 

[karl2000]

Engine still seemed to be running well, even with all that sh*te in it? Must count for something!

Any details in the service records of what oil was used?

 

[mwhtc]

Engine still seemed to be running well, even with all that sh*te in it? Must count for something!

Any details in the service records of what oil was used?

Yep. Like I said before, it was getting more and more clattery when cold and took longer to go away, and I stopped driving it the moment I declared the new pope with the white smoke on start up. It had, for ages, blew black smoke under hard acceleration, but a monthly thrashing reduced that significantly.

Dug out the servicing, up until 89,754 it was done at Toyota. So all we can assume there is that they used Toyota spec oil.

Other 3 services make no mention of type of oil used. Just that engine oil went in to it.

 

[mwhtc]

My last question for tonight in regards to this small sump.

I've not, amazingly, had the sump guard off so not really had chance to look, but is the small sump fairly obvious to see? Is it the part of the sump I've already probed with my endoscope with the drain plug attached to it?