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Injector Swap

It is easy to see, as long as you can see the sump plug you should be able to see in with the sump plug removed. I was looking at my sump pick up gauze yesterday with a small pen like torch.
 
Yep it's the pan with the drain plug in it! That whole box is the small sump
 
It is easy to see, as long as you can see the sump plug you should be able to see in with the sump plug removed. I was looking at my sump pick up gauze yesterday with a small pen like torch.

That's what I've seen already and looks quite clean. I think though with the crap at the rocker cover it's going to be worth the heart ache of removing that and hoping that it's all clean.

Yep it's the pan with the drain plug in it! That whole box is the small sump
Brilliant. I had it in my head that it was separate or something.

I owe everyone a drink here I think!
 
It is probably worth taking off and having a look for peace of mind, I don't think there is a gasket on it as I already tried to order one and was told by Toyota to use RTV silicon sealant .
 
No gasket, just use a rtv sealant. I got mine from my local motor factors.

I think there are 8 small bolts and it will take a bit of prying to get off as it's kinda stuck on.
 
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Fucked it.

I got hold of my torque wrench and set about putting everything back. Set it to 25nm, first bolt I do it snaps clean off on the block.
IMG_20220502_103235088_HDR.jpg


Snookered now.

Never at any point did the wrench click, it just kept going. I'm so fucking angry at this now.

IMG_20220502_103447296.jpg
 
Argh. I had the same issue (although I set the torque wrench to 35nm by mistake), but luckily I was able to get the broken bit out as it wasn't too tight.

Those bolts are use once, as they stretch.
 

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Bugger... one job leads to another :-(

Do you reckon you put more than 25Nm on it and your torque wrench didnt click, or did it snap because they were stretched and shouldnt have been reused?

Can you drill it out?
 
Not good at all. Normally as Karl says, drilling is an option with the right bit as long as you can keep it vertical at the right depth, but I'm not so sure in that location, least of all because of the swarf/bits that may scatter even with a grease dam. A right b'stard !
 
Not going to attempt to drill it out. I could, but if I screw it up it's a new head. So the options are I take the head out myself and put it in to a machine shop to get it done, see if a mobile mechanic will drill it out and sort it, or find a diesel specialist who'll just take it and sort it. Other than 4 stretch bolts (should've known they were use once, but I didn't), a head gasket, coolant, timing belt (sure why not while we're at it, given the state of the gunk) it's just labour costs now

I had a look at the Bailey's guide twice (once before, once after) and both times it states 25Nm. That's why I got the figure from. But I think it's a mix of the wrench being shite and the bolt being knackered that's left me here really.

If anyone knows of a diesel specialist in Stourbridge, or one who'll collect it, let me know.
 
Bugger, sorry to hear you are having troubles. I did a similar thing with a rubbish torque wrench with my camber bolts, you know something is not right then a millisecond later it has snapped. Gutted for you.
 
Give it a go with a sharp pointed tool and see if you can tap it anti-clockwise. I found the broken bit in mine was not tight at all and with a bit of patience it turned out.

I also used the ground screwdriver to tap a groove into it and then just turned it out.....

The other option is to drill a small hole in it and then use a easy out, but I did not want any swarf in there
 
Has someone got the page from the workshop manual? Looking here (page E39) and this is for an early 1KD-FTV engine, those bolts are torqued to 21.6Nm and are not marked as one-time use. I have a feeling, although Google isn't finding it for me immediately 25Nm is for new bolts, and 22Nm is for used bolts. Not trying to dwell on what I realise is an incredibly frustrating event, just be good to get it correct on this thread for future refernce.
 
Don't forget you will need a set of new head bolts too, as you may have the same scenario if you 're use them.
 
Has someone got the page from the workshop manual? Looking here (page E39) and this is for an early 1KD-FTV engine, those bolts are torqued to 21.6Nm and are not marked as one-time use. I have a feeling, although Google isn't finding it for me immediately 25Nm is for new bolts, and 22Nm is for used bolts. Not trying to dwell on what I realise is an incredibly frustrating event, just be good to get it correct on this thread for future refernce.
I've spent all day thinking about this, as I never thought the bolts were a one use item. Even with the Fourby4diesel videos he makes a big thing about the fuel lines being a one use item, but nothing about those forks. Not to my knowledge anyway.

The Bailey's document makes no reference (that I saw) to those bolts being one use items, and they're down as being tightened to 25Nm.

I'm going to try the sharp tool and hammer approach tomorrow after work if I can. It's a free fix if I can do it.
 
I'm studying that document you shared @Rob Cowell and comparing it to the Bailey's guide.

Something caught my eye, which I've gone to the trouble of using Paint to illustrate - FYI, the page number for this document in the PDF document is page 253:
EM-39.png


Here's a screenshot of the Bailey's guide:

Screenshot from 2022-05-02 21-52-01.png

So Bailey's reckon both the clamp plates and the banjo bolts are all 25Nm. Now am I mis-reading the document shared as the official document lists all of these as being 21.6Nm, 16Nm, and 12.5Nm? Because that's wildly different between the two documents.

Someone found this video for me:

He states that the clamps are 22Nm (and not to over tighten as you'll bend injectors, thanks mate) and the banjo bolts are 16Nm. The smaller one he reckons is 13Nm (or 12.5Nm).

So, the Bailey's guide seems to have pulled figures out of their arse.
 
I just used the Baily's guide I shared previously, 25nm for all of those, but with new bolts for the injectors
 
He states that the clamps are 22Nm (and not to over tighten as you'll bend injectors, thanks mate) and the banjo bolts are 16Nm. The smaller one he reckons is 13Nm (or 12.5Nm).

He also mentions that dodgy doc with the 25Nm! (I think theres a bit of rivalry between Bailys and Fourbyfourdiesel)

Pretty clear that the lower numbers seem to be the right ones. My service manual says 22, 16, 13
 
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