G
Guest
Guest
Yes JB they are the remains of the bump stops less rubber bits, and yes new
ones are best bought from Milner.
I am amazed that you even considered undoing the bolts without soaking them
in WD40 or similar for a week first. A while ago in a posting about your
front roll bar I advised that you should soak all bolts etc under the 80
for a week before you start the job. Others have often commented that it is
always advisable to do the same, one posting even being in the past week
referring to Julian's regular mantra to do it.
So you have been told enough and now you will pay the price you bad lad.
These bolts (which go into captive threads within the chassis side member
for those not familiar with them) are the most difficult to get at if you
have to remove the thread stub. To drill them out you have to drop the axle
to physically get a drill in there, not a job you will relish. (Though as
no expert on lifted suspension, for all I know you may have some extra
space between axle and chassis). You can drill them if you have a right
angle chuck drive attachment or possibly a flex drive shaft, but neither
are good to align a drill plumb parallel to the threads for a clean
extraction without damage on one side of the thread. Before you try
anything, to get them well soaked in WD40, take the wheel off and you will
find a small rectangular plug in an inspection hole above the studs. Once
off you can get some stuff in there, but remember that there is a
strengthening web inside there which restricts your arc of squirt as it were.
A parallel jawed Mole wrench on the stub may get it out before you try
drilling, but not easy as the chassis member is a curved concave here. A
pencil flame gas pen on the stub itself to warm it followed by a quenching
in cold water may also crack the rust too. If the stub is too short you may
be able to fit a piece of 3 mm strip (25mm X say 50mm) over it after
drilling an oversized hole to go over the stub. Then arc weld the plate to
the stub and twist it out with an adjustable spanner. The heat from the
welding usually is enough to make the difference using this method. Above
all, when you next go under to move a bolt/stud/nut after soaking in WD40,
twist it quarter turn out then twist it back in nearly as much, and repeat
the back/forward motion all the way till the thread is undone. (The
plumber's freezer as detailed on the 80scool list this weekend will not be
the answer here either). When you finally get to put any threads together
underneath the 80, always put some copper grease etc. on the threads.
Rust shows no favour to foul a job up, be it on a Lada or Toyota.
So there ;o) - but I wish you the best of luck with the job however you
do it, it will be no fun.
Cheers
Jon
Grand Union Canal
'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus from Bosnia
ones are best bought from Milner.
I am amazed that you even considered undoing the bolts without soaking them
in WD40 or similar for a week first. A while ago in a posting about your
front roll bar I advised that you should soak all bolts etc under the 80
for a week before you start the job. Others have often commented that it is
always advisable to do the same, one posting even being in the past week
referring to Julian's regular mantra to do it.
So you have been told enough and now you will pay the price you bad lad.
These bolts (which go into captive threads within the chassis side member
for those not familiar with them) are the most difficult to get at if you
have to remove the thread stub. To drill them out you have to drop the axle
to physically get a drill in there, not a job you will relish. (Though as
no expert on lifted suspension, for all I know you may have some extra
space between axle and chassis). You can drill them if you have a right
angle chuck drive attachment or possibly a flex drive shaft, but neither
are good to align a drill plumb parallel to the threads for a clean
extraction without damage on one side of the thread. Before you try
anything, to get them well soaked in WD40, take the wheel off and you will
find a small rectangular plug in an inspection hole above the studs. Once
off you can get some stuff in there, but remember that there is a
strengthening web inside there which restricts your arc of squirt as it were.
A parallel jawed Mole wrench on the stub may get it out before you try
drilling, but not easy as the chassis member is a curved concave here. A
pencil flame gas pen on the stub itself to warm it followed by a quenching
in cold water may also crack the rust too. If the stub is too short you may
be able to fit a piece of 3 mm strip (25mm X say 50mm) over it after
drilling an oversized hole to go over the stub. Then arc weld the plate to
the stub and twist it out with an adjustable spanner. The heat from the
welding usually is enough to make the difference using this method. Above
all, when you next go under to move a bolt/stud/nut after soaking in WD40,
twist it quarter turn out then twist it back in nearly as much, and repeat
the back/forward motion all the way till the thread is undone. (The
plumber's freezer as detailed on the 80scool list this weekend will not be
the answer here either). When you finally get to put any threads together
underneath the 80, always put some copper grease etc. on the threads.
Rust shows no favour to foul a job up, be it on a Lada or Toyota.
So there ;o) - but I wish you the best of luck with the job however you
do it, it will be no fun.
Cheers
Jon
Grand Union Canal
'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus from Bosnia