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Lack of power and shudders when ignition turned off

Steve H

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May 22, 2010
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Hope you can help me with this, guys. My Colorado KZTE was struggling to pull itself up some of the hills in Devon last week even with the O/D switched off. I had adjusted the kick down cable up by half a turn on the thread to try and get it to kick down out of overdrive before speed dropped to below 50mph or nearly full throttle. Also when switching off the engine shakes itself to a stop and is not as smooth a shutdown as before. I have checked all the vacuum hoses and set the kickdown cable back to original setting. The only other thing I have done since this started is fit new glowplugs which I got from Roughtrax. Any ideas what to look for next?

Steve
 
Hi Steve,

Just to clarify.... had this lack of power started before you changed the glowplugs or after?

Regards,
 
Only noticed the power problem after fitting the new glowplugs. Thought I had knocked something off when fitting them but everything checks out as far as I can see. I am leaning towards maybe one of the plugs isn't sealing properly or leaking through the body somehow :think: . Only other thing with power issue is fuel filter in the tank partially blocked restricting supply. The shuddering (or running on? ) when switching off has also got me baffled as that started when I adjusted the kickdown cable on the auto gearbox. I fitted another new head back in October 2011 three years to the day and 30,000 miles from the first one which went at 123k. Been running fine using no oil or water until now.
 
Rough shutdown could indicate a problem with the butterfly in the throttle body.
Is it sticking after you adjusted the cable? If its stuck open it will cause the symptoms you describe.
 
Sounds as though you are having fuel starvation problems. If the engine is not getting enough fuel then it wouldn't want to kick down a gear as the fuel demand would be higher than at a top gear. Also I had a similar issue with a rough shut down, it turned out to be the spill control valve on the pump.

When idling does it behave rough sometimes, Is the idle smooth?
 
Been running fine using no oil or water until now.

Is it now using oil and water?

I would start by resetting the kickdown to what it was before, it does sound like a fuel starvation issue, need to rule out the change you made first.

Are you towing a caravan? Sounds like Halden Hill on the A38/A380!

Pete
 
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Thanks for all the replies, fellas. I was thinking along the same lines about fuel starvation.
Beau the tickover is smooth but seems to jump up a few rpm and then settle down again almost like a small short surge. Did yours do this ?
What did you do to the spill vave to sort it?

Bounder I have checked the butterfly valve is working and not sticking at all. I have applied a vacuum to the small valve and it closes and seals ok. I also noted that I had them piped up wrong and have put them back the right way round. Still rough shutdown. Does that small valve stay open until vacuum is applied by the engine?

Wobbly Have reset the kickdown back to original setting. It is not using oil or water at all. Sorry , bit misleading that statement. :oops:
Is Halden Hill the one that goes past Exeter Racecourse at the top? That was when I first noticed it struggling and I wasn't towing anything just loaded with enough gear for our week long holiday in Finlake (Me, my wife and son) Have ordered a new fuel tank filter and fuel filter to clean out the tank and rule those out first. If the tank filter is original its lasted 165000 miles. After that maybe I'm looking at pump rebuild. Funny thing is filled up here in Southampton, drove down to Newton Abbot and run around for a few days. Filled up and worked out mileage and came up with 29mpg :!:
 
It would be a good idea to change the fuel filter in the tank first and then take it from there. If that does not solve it, There are two filters in the fuel Pump. One below the fuel spill control valve and one at the Blockage sensor which is below the spill control Valve. Mine got blocked at about 155,000 miles.

When my spill control valve went, I was having rough idle systems at random and it would also cut out on me on the motorway randomly but she would fire straight back up.

I would recommend everyone to be using original toyota fuel filters. It I had been using OEM fuel filters then I would have not had this problem. The OEM filters have a lot more filtrations and therefore rubbish can not get through into the Pump.

If you need any help on the Pump, PM me, I have been through it all before.
 
Hi Steve,

Yes, thats the hill. Its well known as challenging!

Let us know how you get on with changing the fuel pump/line filters. It does sound like crud blocking the system.

Pete
 
Beau

How difficult is it to change the filter in the tank? I'm gathering parts for a pre-trip service, will add that in as well if its straighforward.

I agree about Toyota parts, only downside is the cost, so I tend to use them for critical parts and then reputable manufacturer (ie Blue Print) for routine items.

Pete
 
wobbly said:
Beau

How difficult is it to change the filter in the tank? I'm gathering parts for a pre-trip service, will add that in as well if its straighforward.

I agree about Toyota parts, only downside is the cost, so I tend to use them for critical parts and then reputable manufacturer (ie Blue Print) for routine items.

Pete

The complete tank needs to be removed. I have taken it out a few times now so it takes me about 20 minutes. Tank guard needs coming off, tank needs to then be trained, fuel Pipes disconnected which are in the front in the middle of the tank. There is a plug going to the tank which needs to be disconnected. This is located on the left hand side near the back Bumper area, and then the main entrance Pipes going into the tank need to be disconnected. Then undo the straps and the tank will come out. Then you will need to open the main pick up feed, and the swap the filters. And throw some fuel in the tank, and wash it out.

It is a simple Job with the right tools. Putting the tank back in together requires a little but more patience. Tank needs to be in the exact position so that the straps will reach. If doing it by your self use a jack to hold it in place.
 
Thanks.

It sounds feasible for me to do it myself, have access to a decent workshop lift so will add that to the list.

Pete
 
Right then. Been on the phone today to my local Toyota dealer to order the in tank filter only to be told that there is one fitted to mine, just the under bonnet one. There are two one way valves in the tank apparently but no filter. Could any one post the part number if they have it or put up the Toyodiy diagrams as I cant seem to get to view them.
Thanks
Steve
 
77023A FILTER SUB-ASSY, FUEL SUCTION TUBE(FOR SUB-TANK)

Thats the only reference I can see to a filter, on the diagram it sits at the bottom of the fuel suction tube.

Cheers

Pete
 
Is this what you need ??


Fueltankparts-1.jpg


Fueltankparts-2.jpg



Bob.
 
Hi Steve
I'm not as experienced as most people here but my 90's done over 250k miles and tank filter been OK, from reading "here" the tank filter is just a "mesh bag" around the fuel pick up, as the guy's here call it "tea bag filter".
Firstly - the rough shut down happens on mine sometimes after I've changed the oil filter, I accidentally knock off the vacuum pipe on the valve just behind the oil filter, I put it back on and then its OK.

Second - Power problem - is it possible air is getting into the fuel system ??. I had alot problems with mine with rough idling and slow starting which turned out to be alot of air getting into the fuel system at the tank from a very badly rusted tank fuel outlet pipe, found it accidentally when "Mr.T" told me to check the "tank filter" by blowing back down the fuel pipe from the "fuel filter end" with someone listening at the filler cap for gurgling, anyway did this and after found a pool of diesel on the ground under the tank outlet pipe, checked and found fuel outlet pipe almost broken off with corrosion, pushed the rubber pipe further up on the steel pipe and this "completely fixed my rough idling and slow starting", Even if it is not air I would still try blowing back down the diesel pipe and see what restriction if any and also it might clear the tank filter for a while to see if it runs better, anyway though I'd just mention it as the air fooled me for a long time.
Good Luck - Rob
 
Bob Yes that is just what I was looking for. Thank You

Pete Thanks for looking as well. Looking at Bobs post I concur with you so back onto my dealer in the morning.

Rob Great idea for checking out whether or not the pipe/filter is blocked . Will try that out over the weekend and see how it goes.

Once again THANKS for all the help and ideas for trying to solve this, guys. :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
 
Well today I changed the fuel filter and cleaned out the pump filters as Beau described in his posting. The fuel filter was dirty but not clogged up but was a dirty brown colour inside. When drained out the diesel in the old filter didn't seem to have any water in it. I tried Rob's tip pff blowing down the fuel lines and my wife heard the bubbling in the tank and I found no wet patches on the top off the tank :thumbup: . Thanks again, Rob. I removed the spill control valve and cleaned the filter in there as well. Changed the oil while I was at it(I had to remove the oil filter to make it easier to remove the spill valve). Not too dirty inside the valve housing but a few brown spots again floating around. Put it all together, Primed the pump and fired it up. Tickover is now rock steady and doesn't wander at all. A quick test drive and the power seems to be back and a lot smoother delivery. Will be taking a longer drive Monday night to see if alls well. Will let you all know.
Thank you for all the help with diagrams and ideas of what to look for and try. :clap: :clap: :clap:
 
Well done, glad to hear its improved.

For the next test, you can try Porlock Hill, which is twice the angle of Halden Hill. Going ups ok, coming back down can be very entertaining.....

Pete
 
wobbly said:
Well done, glad to hear its improved.

For the next test, you can try Porlock Hill, which is twice the angle of Halden Hill. Going ups ok, coming back down can be very entertaining.....

Pete

Is that porlock hill in exmoor?
 
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