Leaking Sump

[Toyman]

I have a 2002 Toyota Landcruiser 3.0 D4D - dont know any other model details to describe it but looking at photos I thing she must be a 90 series. Anyway, as per title, the sump is leaking oil. I have never had the car off road and the sump has never been damaged but its rusted through at a joint seam. The reason in my opinion - the sump had a neatly fitted foam clad (between the cover and the base of the sump) protective cover - the foam gets saturated with dirty road water and sits there rusting the sump.

Really annoying problem because its an excellent jeep in every other way with only 110k on the clock - easily another 10 years in the vehicle. But the sump seems a bugger to get at and Ive been quoted between £1500 & £2000 for supply and fit.

Anybody tackle this themselves? If so, did you take engine out or attach from the bottom? Any idea where I'd get a good secondhand sump & if so how much would I expect to pay? Any advice appreciated.

PS Anyone else had this problem cos the dealers seem to say Im the only one in the world that this has happened to!

 

[Bounder]

I have a 2002 Toyota Landcruiser 3.0 D4D - dont know any other model details to describe it but looking at photos I thing she must be a 90 series. Anyway, as per title, the sump is leaking oil. I have never had the car off road and the sump has never been damaged but its rusted through at a joint seam. The reason in my opinion - the sump had a neatly fitted foam clad (between the cover and the base of the sump) protective cover - the foam gets saturated with dirty road water and sits there rusting the sump.

Really annoying problem because its an excellent jeep in every other way with only 110k on the clock - easily another 10 years in the vehicle. But the sump seems a bugger to get at and Ive been quoted between £1500 & £2000 for supply and fit.

Anybody tackle this themselves? If so, did you take engine out or attach from the bottom? Any idea where I'd get a good secondhand sump & if so how much would I expect to pay? Any advice appreciated.

PS Anyone else had this problem cos the dealers seem to say Im the only one in the world that this has happened to!

My colleagues rusted through and he replaced it, the sump isn't that cheap around 380 euro I think but any breakers will have one that isn't rusted for much less if the engine is blown.
I can't see that job costing 1500-2000.
I'd find another mechanic that one sounds like a robber.

 

[James Lampard]

Sorry about your rusty sump !! Glad you posted it up though as I am looking for a 90 with a d4d engine and would never have thought of checking for that they generally covered in oil on a defender !!
You may have saved me a fortune !!!
Hope you get it sorted , if you decide to sell it please let me know as it is something I would be happy to tackle if the rest of the car is good,
cheers Jim

 

[Trevor]

I've had to remove my sump as part of my engine rebuild and I'm doing this with the engine in situ, see link

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/48325-1KZ-TE-engine-rerebuilding

In short, you need to remove the front axle assembly to gain clearance for removing the sump which involves disconnecting the lower ball joints and remove the drive shaft end from the axle.

I reckon it's 50/50 whether you do it this way or take the engine part way out.

 

[Beau]

Personally I would remove the engine from on top and re seal the engine using a engine crane, less parts needing to be removed and I think it's more straight forward, but you do need the tools and of course a engine crane/hoist.

If not, then as trevor has suggested you'll need to remove the complete front axle to gain access to re seal the sump, a pain of a job I reckon

 

[wobbly]

Jeez, thats all a lot of work to remove a sump!

 

[frank rabbets]

When you have the sump off degrease it and use an orbital sander to rough up the surface and remove rust. If really bad get it sandblasted. Now to the main point...use a thin layer of fibreglass over the affected areas. It will not leak again will not rust. I had an Audi with this problem.

Frank

 

[Chrisdean]

Sorry to hijack this thread, but today I took off my front stone guard and wiped a spot of gunk off the bottom corner of the sump and a tiny pin prick hole appeared and started to pee out oil. I took it to a garage who suggested he weld a plate around it. Is this a good solution????

 

[Shayne]

Sorry to hijack this thread, but today I took off my front stone guard and wiped a spot of gunk off the bottom corner of the sump and a tiny pin prick hole appeared and started to pee out oil. I took it to a garage who suggested he weld a plate around it. Is this a good solution????

I'd just drain the oil out and pour a bottle of methylated spirit in to wash the hole then plug it with Araldite . I did that on the casing of a GSXR 1000CC about 15 years ago , the bikes still going and the Araldite is still as solid as the metal it replaced with no leak .

Meths is pure alcohol it evaporates in seconds so no need to worry about contamination .

 

[Chrisdean]

Thanks shayne.

 

[wobbly]

i used a product called petropatch on a rusty sj tank, worked a treat. Obviously no good for the OP whos problem is a joint, but fine for the pinprick hole.

 

[Chrisdean]

I've just realised that the leak is in the lower oil pan. Can this be removed with engine in situ?