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How about these for removable mud flaps http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50-Snap-...=AU_Fabric_Embellishments&hash=item2334e40d1e
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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
I wanted to drive LJ to work today but when I came to lock the door last night to leave LJ on the drive over night the key wasnt doing anything in the lock. 
So my first job tonight was to sort the lock out.
I took the door card back off and managed to oil all the linkages and get the lock working.
Door card back on.
So back to the mud flaps..........................
So just to recap........................
I want the mud flaps to be on for road use but then easily removable for when I venture off road. In the pics above they were just screwed on temporarily so I could test drive LJ.
I brought some metal home from work.
And started bending some of the 25mm x 3mm flat.
The idea being that this bent flat would hook over the rear bumper.
Bent another piece.
Welded the first bent piece of flat to a piece of 25mm angle.
Welded the other piece on.
Checked it was possible to get it on and off the bumper, as space is limited between the body and bumper.
Bolted a mud flap on.
Test fitting.
I hoped that by bolting checkered plate to the bottom it would flatten out the rubber and get rid of the creases.
Drilled the alluminium checkered plate.
Drivers side next.......................
I hadnt bought enough 25mm flat home so couldnt complete the other side properly.
But I could get the checkered plate bolted on.
Drilled the alluminium.
Drilled the mudflap.
So thats the mudflaps.
I'm thinking I will drill through one of the brackets down into the rear bumper and tap an M6 thread into the bumper and then weld some wings to a bolt head to create a wing bolt, just to be certain they wont come off while on the roads.
Once I'm happy with the brackets I will get them electroplated and then powder coated black.
My new bonnet cable turned up today, complete with courtesy air freshener and fridge magnet.
Made in Japan and looks almost identical to the genuine ones so I suspect its made in the same factory.
So my first job tonight was to sort the lock out.
I took the door card back off and managed to oil all the linkages and get the lock working.
Door card back on.
So back to the mud flaps..........................
So just to recap........................
I want the mud flaps to be on for road use but then easily removable for when I venture off road. In the pics above they were just screwed on temporarily so I could test drive LJ.
I brought some metal home from work.
And started bending some of the 25mm x 3mm flat.
The idea being that this bent flat would hook over the rear bumper.
Bent another piece.
Welded the first bent piece of flat to a piece of 25mm angle.
Welded the other piece on.
Checked it was possible to get it on and off the bumper, as space is limited between the body and bumper.
Bolted a mud flap on.
Test fitting.
I hoped that by bolting checkered plate to the bottom it would flatten out the rubber and get rid of the creases.
Drilled the alluminium checkered plate.
Drivers side next.......................
I hadnt bought enough 25mm flat home so couldnt complete the other side properly.
But I could get the checkered plate bolted on.
Drilled the alluminium.
Drilled the mudflap.
So thats the mudflaps.
I'm thinking I will drill through one of the brackets down into the rear bumper and tap an M6 thread into the bumper and then weld some wings to a bolt head to create a wing bolt, just to be certain they wont come off while on the roads.
Once I'm happy with the brackets I will get them electroplated and then powder coated black.
My new bonnet cable turned up today, complete with courtesy air freshener and fridge magnet.
Made in Japan and looks almost identical to the genuine ones so I suspect its made in the same factory.
Great job Ben, you'll sort the mud flaps eventually, a bit of alternative ingenuity required there 
Craigmorley
Well-Known Member
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- Apr 26, 2014
- Messages
- 341
- Country Flag
Hey there I spray 2pak all day every day ur right not nice stuff but u get used to it after a whil been spraying it now for 8 yrs
also nozzles to use for prime and topcoat I'd use the Sam as setting can be reduced on the gun I use 1.8 plenty for priming and just turn down for top coating. I sprayed all my truck in 2pack and 2 pack epoxy. Check my post out.
Well done one been brilliant job likening the arches lol
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
Thanks guys.
Spent an hour behind the wheel of LJ today and it drives nice although I want to get a wheel alignment done and fit a steering dampener as occasionally it feels slightly twitchy.
Cant wait for Saturdays trip off road!
Spent an hour behind the wheel of LJ today and it drives nice although I want to get a wheel alignment done and fit a steering dampener as occasionally it feels slightly twitchy.
Cant wait for Saturdays trip off road!
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Update time guys..........................
The 2.5m x 900mm x 10mm sheet of steel I ordered for a bench top was delivered and put in position, took 4 men to carry it and lift it in!
I allowed for a 50mm overhang to make clamping things to the top easier.
I got my vice bolted down.
I had to make some modifications to an ARB high mount winch bar for the front of Michaels new 80.
On the previous 80 he had these lights bolted on top of the bar but they got hit and dented the panel behind, so this time he wanted them mounting inside the bar.
I had to mount an air manifold under the drivers seat.
So I made a bracket.
Bolted it in place.
I welded up another batch of battery trays.
The next job was to countersink 2 of the mounting holes on the press.
They could then be sent off for electro plating.
I really like Suzuki Jimny's and at some point I'm going to buy one and enter Tuff Truck with it.
Anyway.....................I had to do a load of work on a customers one. I think it looked smart in silver.
I had to fit new wheels and bigger tyres to it.
My first job was to adjust the spare wheel mount so the bigger tyre would fit.
Rock sliders next.
Next I had to cut the guards and edge of the front bar.
I cut through the plastic flare on my line and then cut through the metal guard 20-30mm lower to give me some thing to bend up inside the arch, so i would then have something to teck screw to.
I used checkered sheet alluminium to seal back up inside the arches and then painted it black.
We thought we would have to trim the back slightly.
Checking for clearance.
I made some brackets and trimmed some mud flaps to fit.
I fitted the pieces of metal I'd cut and had powder coated to close in the open section of the rear flares on my bosses 80.
Then I got a little project to do on the 80.
My boss had had the idea to mount 2 fuel cans on the Kaymar rear bar to hold petrol for the chainsaw and shellite for the coleman fuel stove, as then these highly flammable fuels wont need to be carried inside the car.
This was the space available.
First job was to mock up the tanks in cardboard.
Spot the obvious mistake:
Too many flaps.
Due to the shape of the tailgate this tank fitted fine, but the other one wouldnt.
So I decided to push the bottom out 10mm and bring the top in 20mm.
We sourced some 2mm alluminiumized steel from a local 4wd company that make long range tanks.
And the weld in threaded boss and cap.
Cut and folded the first piece of steel.
Second piece.
I sat it on some 5mm plate to space it up enough to allow me to get a nice fillet weld both sides.
My boss got the TIG out for me.
Unfortunately we were out of argon gas, so I used the MIG instead.
After making the first tank I managed to get some argon for the TIG and I had to weld some very thin pipe for some adaptors I needed to make to allow us to fit a Safari snorkel to a latter model GV as the airboxes are different on earlier/later models.
The TIG was perfect for this.
I made them out of 2.5" exhaust pipe which I got flared on one end to fit snugly into the airbox, I then cut through the middle of the pipe at a 10 degree angle.
By then turning the 2 pieces around I had gained the 20 degree angle I needed.
OK back to the tanks...........
I needed to pressure test the tank.
Now I screwed up slightly here in that I connected the airline and put 155 psi into it and it expanded like a balloon.
Speaking to the long range tank place where we got the steel from they said they only use 2 psi to check tanks and that it must have been welded well to not of exploded!
We managed to press it flat again on the press.
So onto the next one.
Now the TIG was working I decided to TIG all of this one.
I pressure tested both the tanks at 2psi.
The one that I welded with MIG leaked in about 5 places, the one I TIG'd didnt have a single leak!
Welding with MIG created lots of splatter, fumes and a few pin holes in the welds. Where as with TIG there is no splatter, a lot less fumes and because your actually melting and fusing the metal together, unlike MIG where your just firing wire and amps at it, it creates 100% fusion!
So TIG is ideal for jobs like this!
Test fitting.
I then sent the tanks for powdercoating.
Oh almost forgot...............each tank holds 6 litres.
My boss said I can keep the TIG in my welding bay, and the plasma cutter if I wanted and that I should put some shelves up for them.
I had to extend the throttle cable mount on Michaels 80 to mount a cruise control cable next to it.
Again TIG was perfect for this!
We had a customers 200 series in this week that looks a bit different to normal 200's thanks to an aftermarket grill and front bar.
I like how the big lED light bar has been intergrated into the bar so well with the tube above it.
OK...............
Finally LJ!
So I had just finished developing my mudflap idea. I was pleased with it and decided to bend up some new pieces of steel to replace the pieces I bent in my vice as some of the bends wernt perfect.
And weld it all together.
Test fitting on LJ.
All welded.
Brought them home.
Had to bolt the rubber flaps on.
Next I drilled and tapped some holes.
Next I made the M6 wing bolts.
Painted them black.
I dropped the steel brackets off at the elctroplaters at 10am and by 2pm they were ready.
Then they went for powdercoating and 2 days later I had them back.
This morning I got them fitted.
As I havent refitted my drawer system yet I sorted out some recovery gear and put it in a box.
And put it in the back of LJ with some tools.
Then I hit the road.
An hour later I was at Toolangi state forrest, my playground for the day.
And I headed straight for the toughest track, which is my favorite.
But first I had to prepare for the challenge that lay ahead.
Mudflaps needed removing.
Tyre pressures needed dropping.
And the winch power lead needed connecting.
Then I was on my way.
The pics really dont do this track justice for how steep and rocky it is.
If/when any of you come to Melbourne I will take you up rocky.
A combination of it raining everyday for the past 2-3weeks, which resulted in very slippery rocks and clay + my badly worn 35's meant I was soon smoking tyres and going no where fast.
The new front suspension seemed to work well.
Despite having both air lockers in I still had no traction.
So it was out with the winch and as I was on my own and high mounts have shit free spools without converting to air free spool I had to spool all my rope out first. Super quick though with the upgraded motor.
I didnt quite have enough rope so got a strop out.
Re-rigging the winch for another pull.
The rope got tangled on the drum.
So I used the old trick of wrapping it around the bullbar and winching in to pull the tangle out.
I wanted to check the front suspension so put a wheel up on the bank.
This revealed that the tyre was rubbing against the spring, I suspect because the panhard rod isnt long enough now the suspension has been raised so much.
Stopped for lunch.
I carried on.
Jumped out to check out an interesting looking side track.
I resisted the temptation to drive this bog hole of a track.
But even the main track I was on had lots of water.
I was a little concerned about the next track as it drops down to a creek and if my winch stopped working I wouldnt get back up the track I was driving down or up the other side.
This is one big steep slippery hill!
With both lockers in I floored it in 1st low and got about a 3rd of the way up.
Then I winched.
Eventually I emerged on a track on the edge of the forest.
Back onto a main track.
And heading home.
I stopped just before the main road.
To fit the mudflaps and clean the windows, lights, number plates and mirrors.
Got home.
Gave LJ a light rinse.
OK...............
So how did LJ do I hear you ask.
Well very well really!
The new EFS shocks on the front soaked up all the bumps beautifully!
The longer wheel base has made a noticeable difference in that LJ barely lifted a front wheel all day and taking corners at speed on dirt roads felt a lot safer as the back end didnt keep stepping out as much and it felt a lot more sure footed .
But in hindsight I should have had the 37s' on as then I wouldnt have had to winch as much and could have seen if/how much I was lifting wheels compared to last time I drove it:
So I might go back tomorrow with the 37's fitted.
The 2.5m x 900mm x 10mm sheet of steel I ordered for a bench top was delivered and put in position, took 4 men to carry it and lift it in!
I allowed for a 50mm overhang to make clamping things to the top easier.
I got my vice bolted down.
I had to make some modifications to an ARB high mount winch bar for the front of Michaels new 80.
On the previous 80 he had these lights bolted on top of the bar but they got hit and dented the panel behind, so this time he wanted them mounting inside the bar.
I had to mount an air manifold under the drivers seat.
So I made a bracket.
Bolted it in place.
I welded up another batch of battery trays.
The next job was to countersink 2 of the mounting holes on the press.
They could then be sent off for electro plating.
I really like Suzuki Jimny's and at some point I'm going to buy one and enter Tuff Truck with it.
Anyway.....................I had to do a load of work on a customers one. I think it looked smart in silver.
I had to fit new wheels and bigger tyres to it.
My first job was to adjust the spare wheel mount so the bigger tyre would fit.
Rock sliders next.
Next I had to cut the guards and edge of the front bar.
I cut through the plastic flare on my line and then cut through the metal guard 20-30mm lower to give me some thing to bend up inside the arch, so i would then have something to teck screw to.
I used checkered sheet alluminium to seal back up inside the arches and then painted it black.
We thought we would have to trim the back slightly.
Checking for clearance.
I made some brackets and trimmed some mud flaps to fit.
I fitted the pieces of metal I'd cut and had powder coated to close in the open section of the rear flares on my bosses 80.
Then I got a little project to do on the 80.
My boss had had the idea to mount 2 fuel cans on the Kaymar rear bar to hold petrol for the chainsaw and shellite for the coleman fuel stove, as then these highly flammable fuels wont need to be carried inside the car.
This was the space available.
First job was to mock up the tanks in cardboard.
Spot the obvious mistake:
Too many flaps.
Due to the shape of the tailgate this tank fitted fine, but the other one wouldnt.
So I decided to push the bottom out 10mm and bring the top in 20mm.
We sourced some 2mm alluminiumized steel from a local 4wd company that make long range tanks.
And the weld in threaded boss and cap.
Cut and folded the first piece of steel.
Second piece.
I sat it on some 5mm plate to space it up enough to allow me to get a nice fillet weld both sides.
My boss got the TIG out for me.
Unfortunately we were out of argon gas, so I used the MIG instead.
After making the first tank I managed to get some argon for the TIG and I had to weld some very thin pipe for some adaptors I needed to make to allow us to fit a Safari snorkel to a latter model GV as the airboxes are different on earlier/later models.
The TIG was perfect for this.
I made them out of 2.5" exhaust pipe which I got flared on one end to fit snugly into the airbox, I then cut through the middle of the pipe at a 10 degree angle.
By then turning the 2 pieces around I had gained the 20 degree angle I needed.
OK back to the tanks...........
I needed to pressure test the tank.
Now I screwed up slightly here in that I connected the airline and put 155 psi into it and it expanded like a balloon.
Speaking to the long range tank place where we got the steel from they said they only use 2 psi to check tanks and that it must have been welded well to not of exploded!
We managed to press it flat again on the press.
So onto the next one.
Now the TIG was working I decided to TIG all of this one.
I pressure tested both the tanks at 2psi.
The one that I welded with MIG leaked in about 5 places, the one I TIG'd didnt have a single leak!
Welding with MIG created lots of splatter, fumes and a few pin holes in the welds. Where as with TIG there is no splatter, a lot less fumes and because your actually melting and fusing the metal together, unlike MIG where your just firing wire and amps at it, it creates 100% fusion!
So TIG is ideal for jobs like this!
Test fitting.
I then sent the tanks for powdercoating.
Oh almost forgot...............each tank holds 6 litres.
My boss said I can keep the TIG in my welding bay, and the plasma cutter if I wanted and that I should put some shelves up for them.
I had to extend the throttle cable mount on Michaels 80 to mount a cruise control cable next to it.
Again TIG was perfect for this!
We had a customers 200 series in this week that looks a bit different to normal 200's thanks to an aftermarket grill and front bar.
I like how the big lED light bar has been intergrated into the bar so well with the tube above it.
OK...............
Finally LJ!
So I had just finished developing my mudflap idea. I was pleased with it and decided to bend up some new pieces of steel to replace the pieces I bent in my vice as some of the bends wernt perfect.
And weld it all together.
Test fitting on LJ.
All welded.
Brought them home.
Had to bolt the rubber flaps on.
Next I drilled and tapped some holes.
Next I made the M6 wing bolts.
Painted them black.
I dropped the steel brackets off at the elctroplaters at 10am and by 2pm they were ready.
Then they went for powdercoating and 2 days later I had them back.
This morning I got them fitted.
As I havent refitted my drawer system yet I sorted out some recovery gear and put it in a box.
And put it in the back of LJ with some tools.
Then I hit the road.
An hour later I was at Toolangi state forrest, my playground for the day.
And I headed straight for the toughest track, which is my favorite.
But first I had to prepare for the challenge that lay ahead.
Mudflaps needed removing.
Tyre pressures needed dropping.
And the winch power lead needed connecting.
Then I was on my way.
The pics really dont do this track justice for how steep and rocky it is.
If/when any of you come to Melbourne I will take you up rocky.
A combination of it raining everyday for the past 2-3weeks, which resulted in very slippery rocks and clay + my badly worn 35's meant I was soon smoking tyres and going no where fast.
The new front suspension seemed to work well.
Despite having both air lockers in I still had no traction.
So it was out with the winch and as I was on my own and high mounts have shit free spools without converting to air free spool I had to spool all my rope out first. Super quick though with the upgraded motor.
I didnt quite have enough rope so got a strop out.
Re-rigging the winch for another pull.
The rope got tangled on the drum.
So I used the old trick of wrapping it around the bullbar and winching in to pull the tangle out.
I wanted to check the front suspension so put a wheel up on the bank.
This revealed that the tyre was rubbing against the spring, I suspect because the panhard rod isnt long enough now the suspension has been raised so much.
Stopped for lunch.
I carried on.
Jumped out to check out an interesting looking side track.
I resisted the temptation to drive this bog hole of a track.
But even the main track I was on had lots of water.
I was a little concerned about the next track as it drops down to a creek and if my winch stopped working I wouldnt get back up the track I was driving down or up the other side.
This is one big steep slippery hill!
With both lockers in I floored it in 1st low and got about a 3rd of the way up.
Then I winched.
Eventually I emerged on a track on the edge of the forest.
Back onto a main track.
And heading home.
I stopped just before the main road.
To fit the mudflaps and clean the windows, lights, number plates and mirrors.
Got home.
Gave LJ a light rinse.
OK...............
So how did LJ do I hear you ask.
Well very well really!
The new EFS shocks on the front soaked up all the bumps beautifully!
The longer wheel base has made a noticeable difference in that LJ barely lifted a front wheel all day and taking corners at speed on dirt roads felt a lot safer as the back end didnt keep stepping out as much and it felt a lot more sure footed .
But in hindsight I should have had the 37s' on as then I wouldnt have had to winch as much and could have seen if/how much I was lifting wheels compared to last time I drove it:
So I might go back tomorrow with the 37's fitted.
Last edited:
Brilliant Ben, well done!
Just the drawer system to refit now... Job done
Just the drawer system to refit now... Job done
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- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
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- Country Flag
Brilliant Ben, well done!
Just the drawer system to refit now... Job done
I wish that was all that was left to do!
I was on my own, that video was from the previous time i drove it. The video shows how much lJ was lifting wheels going up that track, I'm hoping with the wheel base stretch that that will be a thing of the past, but I need to fit the 37's and drive it to really see, no good being on a winch line as thats pulling the front down.
Richard Jackaman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2010
- Messages
- 246
Looking good.
Did you get your steering damper sorted?
Did you get your steering damper sorted?
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
Thanks.
No not yet, depending on how I mount it I might need to turn a piece on the lathe with a tapered hole in it to suit the ball joint. I might still mount it behind the diff in the original position. I need to have another look and see if its possible.
Before I get it tracked I want to fit adjustable panhard rods and all new track rod/tie rod ends.
Superior do adjustable panhard rods:
http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/store.php?cPath=10_16_1624_2914
We deal with them quite a bit at work so I will find out what the cost price is tomorrow.
I also found an OME part number for a front adjustable panhard rod but I'm sure the price must be wrong:
http://www.arbil.co.uk/4x4/products/omesb8133-adjustable-panhard-front-rod.html
I will see what ARB HQ make of that part number tomorrow and get a price and availability.
These are the rod ends I'm thinking of getting:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Pcs-Re...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4173a9f54d
Or if I do move the steering dampener to in front of the axle I could fit this set off an earlier model, the earlier models obviously have the steering dampener mounted differently and thats why one of the rod ends is different:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Pcs-Re...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4173a9e873
Or even a Japanese made set:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Relay-Ti...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d417bb77d
I've also thought of a load more things I want to do to LJ before the trip! Its going to be a busy few months.
No not yet, depending on how I mount it I might need to turn a piece on the lathe with a tapered hole in it to suit the ball joint. I might still mount it behind the diff in the original position. I need to have another look and see if its possible.
Before I get it tracked I want to fit adjustable panhard rods and all new track rod/tie rod ends.
Superior do adjustable panhard rods:
http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/store.php?cPath=10_16_1624_2914
We deal with them quite a bit at work so I will find out what the cost price is tomorrow.
I also found an OME part number for a front adjustable panhard rod but I'm sure the price must be wrong:
http://www.arbil.co.uk/4x4/products/omesb8133-adjustable-panhard-front-rod.html
I will see what ARB HQ make of that part number tomorrow and get a price and availability.
These are the rod ends I'm thinking of getting:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Pcs-Re...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4173a9f54d
Or if I do move the steering dampener to in front of the axle I could fit this set off an earlier model, the earlier models obviously have the steering dampener mounted differently and thats why one of the rod ends is different:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Pcs-Re...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4173a9e873
Or even a Japanese made set:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Relay-Ti...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d417bb77d
I've also thought of a load more things I want to do to LJ before the trip! Its going to be a busy few months.
Tie rods
Just as an FYI Ben, I have ordered the first set you listed there from that seller thinking they would be better as they have grease nipples etc. They do not fit Bundera's. From what I can tell that kit is to suit 75 series. The 2nd set listed does fit the 80's Bundera like mine (Not yours, but I understand you want them to change to front steering damper) That seller is quite helpful though, I would send them an email and ask for thread diameters, and pin sizes (2 different pins in landcruisers, and 2 different thread diameters - 21mm and 23mm. Also one is left hand, one is right hand thread on both arms.
From the cruisers I have looked at, front arm (draglink) is usually 21mm, and rear arm (tie rod) is usually 23mm.
There is also more than one size of tapered hole for the steering damper. Although a bright bloke like you with access to a lathe would be able to cure that problem if you come across it.
I found it more helpful in the end to go to a parts store like Bursons or similar and using their reference book find probable matches, then get one off the shelf and see in person if it will fit.
I have those superior arms fitted to one of my bundys too. Seem great, but I haven't had much to do with them yet
Just as an FYI Ben, I have ordered the first set you listed there from that seller thinking they would be better as they have grease nipples etc. They do not fit Bundera's. From what I can tell that kit is to suit 75 series. The 2nd set listed does fit the 80's Bundera like mine (Not yours, but I understand you want them to change to front steering damper) That seller is quite helpful though, I would send them an email and ask for thread diameters, and pin sizes (2 different pins in landcruisers, and 2 different thread diameters - 21mm and 23mm. Also one is left hand, one is right hand thread on both arms.
From the cruisers I have looked at, front arm (draglink) is usually 21mm, and rear arm (tie rod) is usually 23mm.
There is also more than one size of tapered hole for the steering damper. Although a bright bloke like you with access to a lathe would be able to cure that problem if you come across it.
I found it more helpful in the end to go to a parts store like Bursons or similar and using their reference book find probable matches, then get one off the shelf and see in person if it will fit.
I have those superior arms fitted to one of my bundys too. Seem great, but I haven't had much to do with them yet
Last edited:
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- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
Thanks Dave.
Thankfully I havent ordered any yet.
I've just got all the part numbers off Toyodiy, so I will call my local main stealer tomorrow and get a price.
I will also contact the company who I got my bonnet cable from as looking at their website they seem to sell a lot of Japanese made spares.
I will also get a price from Terrain Tamer and Bursons.
Thankfully I havent ordered any yet.
I've just got all the part numbers off Toyodiy, so I will call my local main stealer tomorrow and get a price.
I will also contact the company who I got my bonnet cable from as looking at their website they seem to sell a lot of Japanese made spares.
I will also get a price from Terrain Tamer and Bursons.
tonytoyota
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2010
- Messages
- 1,800
- Country Flag
Hi Ben top job it's looking good . tonytoyota.
cool
cool
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- Country Flag
Thanks guys.
All the new tie rod/track rod ends got ordered yesterday from Terrain Tamer. Just waiting for a price back for the panhard rods from Superior, although my mind is pretty much made up on those anyway.
I've worked out how I'm going to do the latch on the rear bumper, then that can be sent for shot blasting, electro plating and powder coating.
I've put the drawer system back in place and its clear that I had a lot of wasted space at the sides of the drawers around the wheel arches and also inside the rear quarter panels, so I've got a few ideas to maximize that space.
I need to fit some new rear shocks and I also want to convert the rear to 3 link. I'm thinking I will make my own bottom links out of some nice thick walled seamless tube and make them 10-15mm longer to push the rear axle back slightly. I'm hoping only pushing it back a little bit will avoid the issues I've had with the front regarding spring perches and panhard rod mounts.
Lots still to do but I am making progress slowly.
All the new tie rod/track rod ends got ordered yesterday from Terrain Tamer. Just waiting for a price back for the panhard rods from Superior, although my mind is pretty much made up on those anyway.
I've worked out how I'm going to do the latch on the rear bumper, then that can be sent for shot blasting, electro plating and powder coating.
I've put the drawer system back in place and its clear that I had a lot of wasted space at the sides of the drawers around the wheel arches and also inside the rear quarter panels, so I've got a few ideas to maximize that space.
I need to fit some new rear shocks and I also want to convert the rear to 3 link. I'm thinking I will make my own bottom links out of some nice thick walled seamless tube and make them 10-15mm longer to push the rear axle back slightly. I'm hoping only pushing it back a little bit will avoid the issues I've had with the front regarding spring perches and panhard rod mounts.
Lots still to do but I am making progress slowly.
Can I borrow you for a couple of months Ben?
There's a few odd jobs needing doing on the 80....
There's a few odd jobs needing doing on the 80....
Chas
Well-Known Member
Can I borrow you for a couple of months Ben?
There's a few odd jobs needing doing on the 80....
Get in line Clive.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,058
- Country Flag
I leave for my holiday to the UK a week tomorrow.
But when I get back I will only have about 4-5 weeks before the big trip and now I'm at TAFE Thursday nights I'm not going to have much time to do my own stuff at work and I've still got loads to do on LJ before the trip.
On a more positive note.............................
Just been and seen my accountant and done my tax return and I'm getting a Lot back!
So when I get back I can order my new tyres, OZTent RV3, awning and all my electrical bits!
