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Norway - Arctic Circle - Finland - Baltics 2013

What a "cool" update Reinhard, all those fantastic glacier pictures! It's wonderful to see a glacier reaching the sea or standing water, nothing else quite like it on the planet!
 
Thanks Clive. It lies just above a lake. The glacier is pretty cool. It would have been interesting to take the walking tour on it, but the time we had there was limited.
 
did you look around the Glacier centre?

amazing spot. I spent 2 weeks camping in that valley on a university fieldtrip - as part of my Geology course - studying glaciers in several valleys in the area.

have also driven that pass over to Lom - and climbed the highest mountain in Norway which is near Lom

great photos
 
Thanks. We stopped briefly at the centre The area deserves more time for a good look around as there are other valleys and glaciers to see, as well as the surrounding mountains and fjords. All easily reached from Bergen.
 
The next morning we continued on route 15 and turned off onto Gamle Strnefjellsvegen – which must be one of the most amazing roads of the trip. Highly recommended, and there are quite a few places along the route for wild camping. The road changes from bitumen to hard packed dirt and passes through some brilliant landscape.

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At one point we passed this little beauty

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Further on we passed a ski lift that, even in summer, takes skiers up to a glacier. There were stunning views as we descended into the valley below.

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This has to be one of my favourite photos.

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Indeed Strynfjell is great location, not many people around there
we rented a cabin at a site by the Stryn lake in 2010 for a couple days and drove upto the hotel part way up Strynfjell
then hired some mountain bikes and cycled UP and up and up to that ski centre
then got chased down by a rain storm :(

nice to see your photos of the area, as we didnt travel down the track to the East of the ski centre



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and didnt manage to catch any trout in the beautifull lake stryn
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My colleague in Oslo has just handed his notice in, so looks like more trips to Norway for me soon :)
 
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It is stunning place. The thing about Strnefjellsvegen is that the new road by passes it completely so most people dont even realise what they are missing. Having said that - so much the better as it would be spoilt if there was tarmac, more people and increased traffic.
 
We then joined route 63 to head for the Greiranger – Trollstigen Road, otherwise known as the Troll Road. We first turned off the bitumen to drive up a hard packed dirt road to a peak above the road. From here we could see the road we were about to drive.

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As usual, there were magnificent views as we drove along the Troll Road.

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A couple of bikers enjoying the view and a cuppa

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They really like their old cars in Scandinavia. These were on display but we saw quite a few lovingly restored ones in use on the road

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From the Troll Road we headed for the famous Atlantic Highway, but as we emerged from a tunnel into heavy rain, we were flashed by several on-coming cars. Something was wrong. We pulled up to see what the problem was. Turns out we had a burnt out light bulb. It was late and we still had a way to go that day, so I decided to change it in the rain. Should be pretty straight forward. It wasn’t. In the hundred you need to remove the passenger side battery to get access to the headlight bulb. Did I say it was raining? Arghhh.


Anyway we eventually got to the bridge on the Atlantic Highway. One of the highlights of the trip. Impressive? Sorry to disappoint, but no, not on a calm day. You need the sea to be raging for it to be exciting. My suggestion is not to bother to go out of your way unless you want to visit the coast.

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That night we camped at Lyso Campsite so we could do some laundry, oh and shower

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The next morning we stopped at a Biltema store to get a replacement head light bulb. The Biltema store turned out to be a proper man shop. Biltema sell tools, automobile parts and garage equipment, 4x4 recovery kit, boating equipment, camping equipment and more. You could spend loads of time and cash in that store. It would be great if they had a store in the UK!!! Business opportunity anyone ?

http://www.biltema.no/no/

We drove towards Trondheim and went to Hell.

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I am sure Hell is a nice place, but we didn’t stop as we had a long drive north along the E6. The going was slow because of road was a single carriageway with road works and speed restrictions.

We passed a building decked out in US route 66 regalia and which had a few old US fire trucks parked outside.

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That evening we camped in concealed spot on an abandoned over grown road parallel to the E6 - was it the original E6?

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The next day was another long day of driving. The vegetation turned sparser

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and we were in reindeer country

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We crossed into the Arctic Circle some time in the middle of the day. On the E6 the Arctic Circle is marked by a visitors centre and a few monuments

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We spotted this 120 with a rather cool number plate in the car park

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The trees were to re-appear a little later as the altitude dropped

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We continued up the E6 but in Bognes got the ferry to the Lofoten Islands instead of continuing north.

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Shortly after landing we found a spot with a nice view to stop for the night. Again, it was a part of a disused road off the main road. And again, it was secluded enough so we were not visible from the road.


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The next morning we stopped at a Biltema store to get a replacement head light bulb. The Biltema store turned out to be a proper man shop. Biltema sell tools, automobile parts and garage equipment, 4x4 recovery kit, boating equipment, camping equipment and more. You could spend loads of time and cash in that store. It would be great if they had a store in the UK!!! Business opportunity anyone ?

http://www.biltema.no/no/

There is a chain of stores like that in the UK, I've used the branch in Kingston a few times.

http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/
 
more great photos

when we drove Greiranger it was thick cloud and raining... so good to see your photos of what it looks like :)


it was clearer when we drove Trollstigen Road, but a couple cm snow on the road! those hairpins were amazing

I have been to "Hell" station a many times on the train between Trondheim and the airport.
 
Great trip report and amazing photos Reinhard. :clap:

Thanks for sharing. :thumbup:
 
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Thanks for the feedback. Norway is a pretty epic place.

I need to prepare the next lot of pics.
 
The next morning we headed out onto the islands (all connected by bridge and tunnel). Very soon we spotted an ugly looking statue of an animal at side of the road. Then it moved. It was a moose! We had passed many signs warning of moose, but never spotted any – if Chris was here he would probably say “what do you mean you haven’t spotted any moose? They’re everywhere!!”. Anyway we grabbed what photos we could and continued inland.

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We toured the Lofotens visiting a Viking museum, and the villages of Nus and Hennigsvar. The land and sea scapes were amazing. The islands are a destination in their own right with great opportunities to enjoy nature, hike or cycle, visit the little villages and to go whale spotting.

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Some of the houses have grass insulation on the roofs. This farmer decided that his needed a little tidying up, so he brought the sheep out.

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Remember the morning’s moose? Well he was in the same area as we drove through on our way out that evening.

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This was to be the only moose we were to see throughout the whole trip.

As diesel was expensive on the islands, we pushed the fuel to the limit. By the time we decided we had pushed it too far and really need to fuel up, the petrol stations were shut – most have ‘Pay at Pump’, so not a problem usually – but it was today – it seems there was a network problem and the pay terminals were down at the pumps we passed. As the reserve light came on and unsure how much fuel was left, we stopped just off a dirt track by a fjord for the night. Unfortunately it meant we lost a few hours of driving.

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Great update - thanks

good to see the Rorbuer (fishermens huts)

really must visit Lofoten one day - and do some cycling and mountaineering and do some fishing.
it just looks a wonderful place to visit.
it is like the Isle of Skye on steroids (off there for sea kayaking on Friday)

I watched the Arctic circle race of Norway this week on Eurosport http://www.arctic-race.com/
they had a stage on Lofoten - and cycled over a bridge like the one in your photos
 
We filled up as soon as the petrol station opened. I now know that the reserve is around 12 litres so I could have gone on to the next town and maybe found fuel there. We re-joined the E6. Today we had some 800 kms to cover as we pressed towards Nordkapp. It was to be a long day through some beautiful scenery.

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From here on we were to see many reindeer

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We parked up to sleep in broad day light at 1.20am – yes the sun was still out – just short of Norskehavet where Nordkapp is located.

In the morning we continued north. We passed the scene of an accident – a biker had hit a reindeer. Rider and passenger were dazed but otherwise fine, the bike had a broken mirror, but the reindeer was lying at the side of the road and appeared to be dead.

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We stopped in the town of Honningsvag, a somewhat run down fishing town. We didn’t linger as NordKapp lay some 30kms to the north.

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Finally we reached NordKapp. There is a visitors centre with museum, restaurant and shop, and outside are some monuments. Looking north from here is the sea all the way to the Arctic, interrupted only by the Svalbard Archipelago (now there's a destination!!)

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In actual fact the northern most tip of Europe is on a parallel peninsula, an 8 km walk away. With the gale that was blowing we decided not to walk it.

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As we approached the tunnel to leave Norskehavet we saw this sign

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