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Pull to Right When Braking

Not used vice grips but I did use hose clamps when I changed the front calipers. New hoses were supposed to go on but one of the new ones had a problem with the thread on it so the drivers side still has the original one.

Any way to test the hose without taking it off?

If its pulling to the right and thats on the right then thats possibly nit it unless the pulling occurs when you take pressure off the pedal. never use hose clamps on brake lines its a no no. One day you will hit the brakes and nothing will happem one side. it could be a problem in the back axle say left rear not engauging or left front not engauging. have you had a wheel alignment?
 
Not used vice grips but I did use hose clamps when I changed the front calipers. New hoses were supposed to go on but one of the new ones had a problem with the thread on it so the drivers side still has the original one.

Any way to test the hose without taking it off?

Not really replacement can always check if the calipers are returning responsively

Most places do a dodgey wheel alignment first time then you take it back tell them which way its pulling and they will correct it or do the job properly. I only know one place in my town that does it properly.......... You dont have more weight on the left side do you? how much do you weigh and how much does your Mrs weigh :) (sorry couldn't resist). You had them tested and suspension so wheel alignment but you haven't told us how badly it pulls to the right. does it pull or does your vehicle end up on the right hand side of the road? Have you checked for equal tire inflation as a flat tyre will have a larger surface on the road have you got one tyre low on pressure on the right side of your car do you have different tyres on one or two wheels?
 
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and yes wheel bearings will do it and they fail id they aren't adjusted properly can get some swaying in the front end if they arent adjusted properly and some squeeling if their too loose.
 
I’m not suggesting it’s your problem Mark, but I’d had mine jacked up after the DW attack on the Sunday and I couldn’t find anything amiss.

I couldn’t believe it when the very next day on Monday, the workshop found the wheel bearing shot to pieces.

I’m obviously not strong enough to ‘rattle’ heavy wheels enough to find such a fault, obvious to others.

invest in a 2 1/2' tyre lever can check anything then.
 
ureethane bushes only last about 12 months rubber last 100'000k's
 
Alignment was last done in May in a small town in North Africa, and no I don't have a lot of confidence in them doing a good job, it'll be redone this week after the trackrod end is replaced.

Not a tyre pressure problem as they are regularly adjusted for driving surface

The pull to the right is quite severe and does it with the truck loaded up for overland use and unloaded in every day use so I don't think its weight related.

I don't think the 90 series bearings are adjustable like the 80's etc
 
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has it been in a prang? Make sure they do the castor as well as the camber and toe in/out.

Did you start having trouble in may was that your last trip?

with the brake lines is there a separate line from the master cylinder for each wheel?
 
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Separate lines on the front, combined on the rear by the looks of it.

No accidents in the 6 years I’ve had the truck.

The pull started after changing the pads on the front right. No other changes were made at the time.

When I checked the brakes when I got home the front calipers had seized pistons on both sides so they had a full rebuild by a reputable company. Back on with new pads and discs then bled. Truck passed the MOT with only a track rod end as an advisory issue. I know the garage and mechanic very well and I helped during the test so no corners were cut.

Just replaced the track rod and double checked bushes etc on front right. Again nothing obvious there.
 
well thats all I can think of. is the pedal hard or soft?
 
if its soft or spongy check the left front for air in that line or damage. other than that i'm out of ideas. AHH you have a computer don't you in it ask your dealer if you can reboot it by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it in vw about 2002 when a error was registered in the computer the error would stay even if fixed until the computer was reset to default settings by disconnecting it. worth looking into.
 
How do your lower control arm bushing look like? The ones that have the cam adjustments. I had the exact same issue you're describing for a while. Replaced these (2 were bad but not terrible) and this fixed the problem. I think under breaking one side was twisting the rubber bushing pushing the wheel back ever so slightly causing the wheel to want to track to a certain side.
 
They look ok. Replaced last year then the 2 rear ones failed so they were replaced by the garage who fitted them.

The replacements were after the pull started. Garage said f ont 2 were fine and the rears bad. No idea what make though. The garage work on Dakar racers etc and is very highly regarded so I have no reason to doubt them, but haven’t ruled them out completely
 
Bit of a long shot but would steering rack bushes be a possibility? I think not myself
 
I wouldn't think so, but you can always crawl underneath and get someone to steer the wheel and see how much play is in the rack.
 
Beginning to think it may be bushes.

Went out for a drive last night, braking at 30mph and the steering pulls slightly left. Steering wheel turns about 1/4 turn to left. Above 40mph it goes right.

New track rod made no difference so it’s not that
 
Beginning to think it may be bushes.

Went out for a drive last night, braking at 30mph and the steering pulls slightly left. Steering wheel turns about 1/4 turn to left. Above 40mph it goes right.

New track rod made no difference so it’s not that

Hi Mark

A lot has been covered in this thread and I can think of only one thing not mentioned so far. A small amount of brake fluid / oil leaking onto a pad can have a dramatic effect on braking by causing the effected pad to 'snatch' at the disk. One way to test this is to brake relatively heavily several times in a row to heat up the pad and burn off the oil. If you try this and (say) the fourth and subsequent attempts at braking do not result in a strong pull to the right then that may be your issue. Good luck.
 
Just been attacking it with a big bar and there’s quite a lot of movement in the front left lower control arm Bush!

Having had these done recently it’s disappointing that they haven’t lasted 12 months even with the use I put them through. Now the question is which bushes to replace them with ? RT have Kavo or Whiteline in stock at r also able prices and I guess Toyota are pretty pricey.

Trying to upload a vid but site says no at the moment
 
Looks like a fair bit of play there.

According to Toydiy the bushes are about the £55 mark each from Toyota:
48061-35040 front 59.27 euros 48061-35050 rear 59.70 euros.

About half the price from Amayama, but shipping and taxes on top of that.
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4806135040

I fitted the Whiteline ones from RT not long ago, too early to tell how long they’ll last. They’re ok but do make for a harder ride. If they do go, I think that I’ll go back to Toyota rubber. No experience of Kavo, Febi or Febest bushes, but could be a case of you get what you pay for...........

Febest here: https://shop.febest.eu/catalog/rubber-parts/arm-bushings.html?brand=TOYOTA&model=LAND CRUISER PRADO

As they've been done recently, hopefully not too bad a job. Mine took a fair bit of shifting, both bushes and bolts. Might be best to do all four lowers..........
 
The plus side is the camber adjusters and bolts are not seized having been off twice recently. I'll do all 4 are the current bushes are dubious in quality.

I'll probably go with the Whitelines, I've used them every where else I've changed bushes after realising how bad Milners orang bushes are.
 
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