as you all know by now ive been havin problems with the electics in my car and it not starting, well i think ive got to the bottom of it now only to find another problem. with all the messing about i had to charge the batteries so this morning i fired her up and went for a run, went through the town and on to a country road put my foot down abit and then a steady drive a couple of miles home and all was well. when home i thought i would pop the bonnet to see if everything was still tight and noticed the bottom rad hose was sucked in? been busy rest of the day and not had time to look but thought i would put the problem out and see if anyone has had similar or knows of cause?
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
rad hose
- Thread starter j555fjr
- Start date
Well it pretty much has to be negative pressure doesn't it. Could be a simple stat failure. Did you try to take the rad cap off (carefully) if the hose had re-inflated then I would suggest that flow through the rad was probably alright. Not complex systems really - as in, there are many components to have to consider to find the answer. The truth is though that it's easy to jump to a diagnosis. And without more info, these first suggestions are often best guesses..
Chris
Chris
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
Sorry buddy - what's that got to do with it? It wouldn't be the cap. That is supposed to be sealed and if it leaked then water would be blown out. At the very least it couldn't be responsibility for negative pressure.
It's much more likely to be the stat. But that is only a starting point.
Chris
It's much more likely to be the stat. But that is only a starting point.
Chris
The stat has a bypass hole in it which I figure is big enough for the pump to circulate just enough water to keep from killing the engine. The gauge is so inaccurate and pretty dead in the middle that it would have to be boiling for the needle to really show that much until it was ready for lift off to he honest. It could be a collapsed hose too. We're offering you starting points here in the absence of much else to go on. But it's not going to be the cap either way. You did ask.
I have seen lots of rad and cooling issues, but not seen a collapsed hose very often. As I said, they consist of some hole, some pips a pump and a rad. Not a lot else. If the pump is pulling hard and can't get flow, it will probably suck a hose in. My concern is that the hose that is collapsed is before the stat so it would be pulling against the block side of the unit. It would be odd that the hose before that was being sucked in. But you never know. The other thing could be a blocked rad - with the thermostat open. That is why I asked about lifting the cap off. If the air rushed in and the hose inflated then that would be one thing. A blockage in the engine or top hose perhaps. But if the hose stayed flat then I'd guess that the rad or hose itself was the culprit.
Chris
I have seen lots of rad and cooling issues, but not seen a collapsed hose very often. As I said, they consist of some hole, some pips a pump and a rad. Not a lot else. If the pump is pulling hard and can't get flow, it will probably suck a hose in. My concern is that the hose that is collapsed is before the stat so it would be pulling against the block side of the unit. It would be odd that the hose before that was being sucked in. But you never know. The other thing could be a blocked rad - with the thermostat open. That is why I asked about lifting the cap off. If the air rushed in and the hose inflated then that would be one thing. A blockage in the engine or top hose perhaps. But if the hose stayed flat then I'd guess that the rad or hose itself was the culprit.
Chris
I will have a look into it tomorrow if I'm not snowed in! Off to bed now to sleep on weather it's worth keeping the car or not, seems to be one thing after another, might brake it up or just put it up for export. People slag off landrovers but I've had dozens of all ages and never had this much bother. I've even had a mid 80s fourtrak that I would of set off anywhere in it was so reliable but this thing I never know if it's going to get me to work!!!!
Let's remember that these are old cars. I don't think that any of us have bought one and just jumped in and driven without some issue or service item. On mine, the only thing not really working is the oil pressure gauge. It's nearly 18 years old and I have just driven halfway round Wales these weekend on some pretty rough lanes and it's still purring. So don't judge it too harshly, they are mighty trucks. I wouldn't look on a hose being flat as major stuff. That could happen on any car.
If you can get it straight, you'll see why we have these and not Landrovers.
Chris
If you can get it straight, you'll see why we have these and not Landrovers.
Chris
Dave Docwra
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2010
- Messages
- 1,591
Has the rad frozen up in this bad [strike:14qbcubi]wether[/strike:14qbcubi]weather up north?
If I actually had the time, I'd take you up on that. As long as it doesn't include the words, "Measure end float drift mean average displacement clearance and replace with correct shim" I'm happy doing it. I like the words "Unbolt and replace". Nice and easy.Something odd going on as I said, but nothing very complicated I'm sure.
Chris
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2010
- Messages
- 5,520
Would a sucked in hose have an equal inflated/hard hose on the other side of the blockage when symptom occurs. Is it always sucked in or just when running ie; not a distorted hose?
Frank
Frank
The water pump isn't really a pump, in that it can't generate any real pressure. It just splashes about helping to push the water round. Also, the cap is supposed to allow water both ways - hence the overflow bottle with a pipe that goes right to the bottom, so it can accomodate overflow, but also allow water back into the system. If you're loosing water, then the level in the overflow bottle drops, so it must be getting back into the system somehow. If the cap isn't working as it should, then as the water expands it can flow to the bottle, but as it cools and contracts it can't get it back, hence the collapsed pipe. Of course, it could be the pipe has collapsed internally and is therefore not able to take any reduced pressure.
What was the cap you put on it? Genuine? Not all caps are the same.
What was the cap you put on it? Genuine? Not all caps are the same.
Lorin
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2010
- Messages
- 1,463
You're not the first to have this thought....
or this one!
'Chris's Cruiser Services'
..... 
In the absence of that though I'd second Chris's advice - they're old trucks! Mine has needed more than a little TLC
but despite all the things going wrong and needing fixing (and there's been a few.... 
) it has never actually stopped working or failed to get me home. Not something I'd have the same level of faith in an old LR being able to achieve 
j555fjr said:
or this one!
j555fjr said:
'Chris's Cruiser Services'
..... In the absence of that though I'd second Chris's advice - they're old trucks! Mine has needed more than a little TLC
but despite all the things going wrong and needing fixing (and there's been a few.... ) it has never actually stopped working or failed to get me home. Not something I'd have the same level of faith in an old LR being able to achieve
This is why I asked what happened when he took the cap off. If the system was under 'vacuum' due to a faulty cap - then releasing it would allow air to rush in if nothing else. But this didn't come back as an observation, hence why I didn't think it was the cap. If that makes sense.
Chris
Chris
Similar threads
