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Rustproofing, updating methods and products.
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Rob Cowell
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Isn't the point of Krown to stop getting more rust? Rather than turning existing rust into something blacker. I thought it looked good, although only 6 months on.
Jon_Tallis
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Did they actually do anything? If that was my truck I'd be asking Mr Krown for my money back.
By way of comparison, my 80 looked similar 12 months after Dinitrol treatment. The garage took one look, emailed the pics to Dinitrol who confirmed they had used the wrong rust-converter first time round (long story). Garage redid the entire treatment free of charge, including stripping off the old Dinitrol and re-prepping the while underside. 5 days work!. 2 years on, looks like the day it was done, if a bit muddier.
I know who I'll be using in future......
By way of comparison, my 80 looked similar 12 months after Dinitrol treatment. The garage took one look, emailed the pics to Dinitrol who confirmed they had used the wrong rust-converter first time round (long story). Garage redid the entire treatment free of charge, including stripping off the old Dinitrol and re-prepping the while underside. 5 days work!. 2 years on, looks like the day it was done, if a bit muddier.
I know who I'll be using in future......
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What I understood from the way Krown works is as Shayne said, it will seep in beyond rust and protect actual metal. If this is the case, todays pics showed a bit more black patches as compared to prior treatment.
Dosent it mean those thick brown rust is now gone and Krown protecting black metal beneath?
Is 6 months too early to check?
Mr.Krown told if I am not worried about how underbody looks and need protection, Krown will do it.
This whole concept of rust is new to me. Somehow this most dangerous thing was never mentioned to me by any mechanics prior to buying Landcruiser.
Dosent it mean those thick brown rust is now gone and Krown protecting black metal beneath?
Is 6 months too early to check?
Mr.Krown told if I am not worried about how underbody looks and need protection, Krown will do it.
This whole concept of rust is new to me. Somehow this most dangerous thing was never mentioned to me by any mechanics prior to buying Landcruiser.
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I was skeptical so wasted many hours on sleepless nights trawling google investigating how and why it works - or doesn't , so i laid my money down and got exactly what i expected .
I've described it before on the forum as industrial strength wd40 , they jet wash under the truck and don't even wait for it to dry because the Krown disperses water , its an oil film that doesn't dry . Its an alternative method of rust protection .
Most if not all others demand intensive preparation with wire brush etc followed by rust converter all of which turn rust black , then they coat it , which is to say its painted and looks pretty .
Air and moisture cause a chemical reaction known as rust and Krown blocks both while designed to seep into new stone chips and the like .
I wish now i'd have used rust converter before visiting Krown just so everything was black - but only because it would look better .
For me the beauty of Krown is that it hides nothing so if something needs attention you can see it . I've a post on here somewhere discussing how on removing my fuel tank and cleaning it back to bare metal i found rust under a very thick protective layer that might have been factory Toyota . I'd never have known it was rusting had i not removed the "paint?" . I will try to find a link .
I've described it before on the forum as industrial strength wd40 , they jet wash under the truck and don't even wait for it to dry because the Krown disperses water , its an oil film that doesn't dry . Its an alternative method of rust protection .
Most if not all others demand intensive preparation with wire brush etc followed by rust converter all of which turn rust black , then they coat it , which is to say its painted and looks pretty .
Air and moisture cause a chemical reaction known as rust and Krown blocks both while designed to seep into new stone chips and the like .
I wish now i'd have used rust converter before visiting Krown just so everything was black - but only because it would look better .
For me the beauty of Krown is that it hides nothing so if something needs attention you can see it . I've a post on here somewhere discussing how on removing my fuel tank and cleaning it back to bare metal i found rust under a very thick protective layer that might have been factory Toyota . I'd never have known it was rusting had i not removed the "paint?" . I will try to find a link .
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Read your post Shayne, what you did was dismantle the whole car, clean, repaint and rebuilt it. Thats best way if it can be done. That’s impossible in current generation.
I was thinking for a while, how do we find a real world proof that Krown is working. Nothing against it but it’s natural curiosity to make sure we are giving the best.
Maybe an update after 1,2 or 3 years later from cars that only had Krown and no other products on it.
For first time I looked under my other car. It’s in worst situation than Landcruiser, I will use that as my test as I think it ll die of rust in a year or 2 so ll see how long I can extend its life with Krown.
I was thinking for a while, how do we find a real world proof that Krown is working. Nothing against it but it’s natural curiosity to make sure we are giving the best.
Maybe an update after 1,2 or 3 years later from cars that only had Krown and no other products on it.
For first time I looked under my other car. It’s in worst situation than Landcruiser, I will use that as my test as I think it ll die of rust in a year or 2 so ll see how long I can extend its life with Krown.
I think 6 months is too soon to tell if Krown has done anything worthwhile, especially as road salt has only been down for the last 6 to 8 weeks depending on where you live.
For myself i'm going to carry on as i have been hosing salt residue off the underside fairly regularly and then spraying ACF50 on twice a year, i also gave the main chassis a good smearing with waterproof grease just before winter, this process which started with an initial full internal and external with Bilt Hamber's products has as far as i can see halted time in corrosion terms and the vehicle seems no worse for the tin worm than when we bought it just over 5 years ago, however its mucky as hell underneath as one would expect so not as pretty as a clean dry painted underbody would be.
Just yesterday i fitted some new rear pads and discs onto our 2008 Forester plus a new rear drop link, underneath is absolutely solid, not a sign of subframe or suspension rust and that's been having its ACF50 spraying each year.
Oil based wet products seep into all the nooks and crannies, still have plenty of ACF50 but if that runs out and i'm still physically able to get underneath and do the business then i'll try chainlube, but even after the 3 hours or so working on the Forester yesterday on a thankfully mild wind free day my knees especially were giving me some gyp so the day will come when i won't be able to do this any more.
For myself i'm going to carry on as i have been hosing salt residue off the underside fairly regularly and then spraying ACF50 on twice a year, i also gave the main chassis a good smearing with waterproof grease just before winter, this process which started with an initial full internal and external with Bilt Hamber's products has as far as i can see halted time in corrosion terms and the vehicle seems no worse for the tin worm than when we bought it just over 5 years ago, however its mucky as hell underneath as one would expect so not as pretty as a clean dry painted underbody would be.
Just yesterday i fitted some new rear pads and discs onto our 2008 Forester plus a new rear drop link, underneath is absolutely solid, not a sign of subframe or suspension rust and that's been having its ACF50 spraying each year.
Oil based wet products seep into all the nooks and crannies, still have plenty of ACF50 but if that runs out and i'm still physically able to get underneath and do the business then i'll try chainlube, but even after the 3 hours or so working on the Forester yesterday on a thankfully mild wind free day my knees especially were giving me some gyp so the day will come when i won't be able to do this any more.
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My truck in the link never went to Krown but my 80 did .
You seen where it had run onto paint on my truck and it wasn't easy to remove from that shiny surface so it stayed there through more than 2 years of the truck getting dirty and getting washed , its a waterproof product for sure . Krown makes no claims to cure or dress up rust its aim is to stop rust in its tracks .
I posted a youtube vid perhaps on this thread of an Americans Krown treated rustbucket pickup truck one year on and he felt some of the worst rust had flaked off as the Krown seeped under it whilst the rest including a bit newly welded in looked the same .
Get a rattlecan of Krown , use a wire brush on a drill to clean a small shiny new metal spot somewhere you can easily see . Spray the Krown over it and it should remain shiny for as long as the Krown lasts .
You seen where it had run onto paint on my truck and it wasn't easy to remove from that shiny surface so it stayed there through more than 2 years of the truck getting dirty and getting washed , its a waterproof product for sure . Krown makes no claims to cure or dress up rust its aim is to stop rust in its tracks .
I posted a youtube vid perhaps on this thread of an Americans Krown treated rustbucket pickup truck one year on and he felt some of the worst rust had flaked off as the Krown seeped under it whilst the rest including a bit newly welded in looked the same .
Get a rattlecan of Krown , use a wire brush on a drill to clean a small shiny new metal spot somewhere you can easily see . Spray the Krown over it and it should remain shiny for as long as the Krown lasts .
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That looks good. I stuck a hose pipe in mine and let the water flow for ages to clean it all out. Make sure the water has somewhere to go, you can see it getting cleaner inside when the water runs out clear. Once I did that and dried it all out I painted the inside, before lanoguarding the lot.
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Finally tested this hose extension. It was really good one as I managed to get water into small holes of chasis. There was lot of hard mud inside chasis and it took a while to flush it out. It looks like its moving from rear to front as I was using water pressure so had to move from rear to front many times and use long nail to unblock and move stuff. Only managed to do passenger side of chasis today. With all this mud inside blocking chasis, Krown wouldn't have spread inside chasis properly.
Tractionman
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Where the he'll does all this mud keep coming from Raj, you doing muck away or sommat?
I thought Krown were supposed to do all the cleaning before application ?
Have you tried just the front up, just the back up when you're power flushing, might encourage more out of the chassis holes. IIRC the ends of the chassis rails have plates welded over the ends, so you won't get any out of there.
I thought Krown were supposed to do all the cleaning before application ?
Have you tried just the front up, just the back up when you're power flushing, might encourage more out of the chassis holes. IIRC the ends of the chassis rails have plates welded over the ends, so you won't get any out of there.
Gr8Yota
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Just read through the entire thread… I have always used Waxoyl on my 70 and now on my FJ. Each year I rub down any rust spots and re-coat… My 70 still looked like new underneath after 13yrs in the mud.
But what next… about to get a new vehicle. I want to try just painting it while it has no rust - add a good coating to the new chassis. I would like to be able to keep it looking good and no sticky wax to contend with.
Any recommendations for paint please?
But what next… about to get a new vehicle. I want to try just painting it while it has no rust - add a good coating to the new chassis. I would like to be able to keep it looking good and no sticky wax to contend with.
Any recommendations for paint please?
I used this for the top coat on the 120 chassis:
www.frost.co.uk
Eastwood 2K Ceramic Chassis Black Satin Underbody Coating
2K Satin Ceramic Chassis Black — Eastwood's most durable, chemical-resistant, and easiest-to-spray Chassis Black yet! Highly chip-resistant Incredibly UV-resistant Gloss level Approximately 25-30% Chemical-resistant Dries fast Requires Eastwood's 4:1 Urethane Activator- Click the image to...
www.frost.co.uk
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Firm called Rustbuster do a treatment on their premises of derust treat and paint think a lot of classic cars have used them I have used the DIY kit on my trailer but had the advantage of using a local sand blasting company to get rid of several layers of nato green paint and some original red oxide the paint itself is as thick as bitumen paint then you mix in a hardener and paint or roller on all I can say about it is its bloody hard stuff used two colours black for the chassis and outer body and grey for the inside of the tub and bottom of the tub and would use it again if I got another trailer I think it's good stuff
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Yes I too kept thinking the same. After Krown treatment I drove car in mud for testing
and forgot about it. I only cleaned wheels n body after that mud drive.On Sunday I tried watering by lifting only one side and also attached a small silicon rubber tube to hose extension and pumped water into smallest holes of chasis. I am sure it’s 90% clean. Now ordered a snake camera to look inside.
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Krown is a Canada product so to quote from the comments below the vid
"As a Canadian who's vehicle sees salt yearly, Krown used to be decent before when they had a thicker coating, over the years I've noticed they reformulated it to be thinner and more watered down, IMO it's not effective at all. Not mention the technicians only spray where you can see and drill a bunch of holes in your vehicle frame. I wouldn't recommend it."
