Rustproofing, updating methods and products.

[chapel gate]

and probable have to be a lot deeper for equivalent strength. im guessing there would also be more flex, which is good in a HGV or unimog, less so in a 4x4.

 

[karl2000]

Didn't Toyota use open frames in some vehicles? I'm sure I remember seeing some (probably on youtube) but don't remember what they were!

 

[SteveJB]

Someone on here was boxing up a chassis on either a 70 series or 40 series Iwan I think it was on his build thread

 

[karl2000]

Karcher Kärcher Chassis Underbody Cleaner Brand New Discontinued Free p&p in UK | eBay

Applying underbody wax. I’ve only opened the lid to visually check the contents. Suitable for all vehicles from 11 cm – 38 cm.

ebay.co.uk

These are discontinued and you don't see them around much anymore.

 

[Tractionman]

Probably because everyone is using the cheaper garden sprinkler method Karl, although not as powerful.

 

[Mike M]

Hi folks,

Just thought I'd provide my experience with lanoguard.
I have been using the spray on lanoguard for almost two years now and spraying the underside every 6 months October and March when I service the cruiser. I normally use the Moto spray but I've used chassis guard with glass flakes in Shultz cans previously and sprayed directly on top of Granville rust converter. The photo is from today and considering everything was topped up in October, I'm not that impressed and it's something I've been noticing that each time I'm topping up, more work is needed so it's getting too labour intensive. I reckon it's just too thin a product and washes off but i have had good results with the grease and Moto spray in and around the engine bay and using the grease on bolts and brackets.

So, I'm going to give Corrolan a go as it's still a lanolin based product but more like a thick wax. As usual, everything orange underneath will get a wire brush and rust converter first then spray on the corrolan.

Couple of things to note, it doesn't smell like sheep's piss like lanoguard and it's around £11 plus vat for a litre. It will need thoroughly heating up on a stove or something before spraying as it's a thick wax at room temp and it's not clear like lanoguard but a sort of light brown colour.

Anyways, this is just my experience. The car originally had the full dinitrol treatment 3 years ago when I brought it into the UK but this needed attention in areas after one Scottish winter lol. I'll update once ive sprayed this stuff on with pics and see how it lasts.

Thanks

Mike

 

[Juddian]

Mike M, just shows what a Scottish winter or two can do.

Just to cheese everyone off, have a poke nose at these two vids from one of the Youtube channels i watch, enjoy the inspections underneath and compare the chassis which look like a 12 month old UK version.

Does the chassis paint on those two look like what was once applied to ours, cos to me looks like a different, better, standard of original painting.

 

[Tractionman]

Looks nearly as good as mine !

 

[Mike M]

Yeah definitely and 70s sure like to rust so mine gets alot of tlc.
I don't think mine was much different from those in the videos, bit fresher probably as mine only had 4k on the clock with its first 3 years in Japan.
Certainly seen some rotten cars in the states if they are in the rust belt. I watch the Southmain Auto repair channel on YouTube and he gets some rot boxes to fight with. Worth a watch.

 

[karl2000]

I watch the Southmain Auto repair channel on YouTube

+1 good for electrical diagnostics too

 

[Raj]

I asked a garage if they can change all fuel lines, break lines and AHC lines. They look rusted, lot worse than the Lexus in above video.
The garage said they can do break lines themselves but fuel n AHC lines have to be ordered from Toyota. After these weak links are sorted, rest of the car is solid.

 

[karl2000]

How much did they quote you for all that @Raj? Are they really that bad?

 

[Raj]

Karl I didn’t ask ask how much it ll cost. Next Monday I ll get the alignment and ask them approx price. These are not immediate concern but they are rusted (I can’t see clean pipe, it’s all bubbly with rust) so eventually I ve to change. I am planning budget n will get them done for peace of mind. If I can getaway without changing, it ll be good

 

[karl2000]

I had a brake pipe burst on my old Mercedes ML - looked fine on the outside, but apparently they rust from the inside out!

Low range is very handy when you've only got a handbrake

 

[Raj]

brake pipe burst

This was my concern, can this happen while driving? And is there any backup safety mechanism if break or fuel pipes go off while driving

 

[chadr]

My Collie is off the road currently due to a burst brake pipe. Luckily happened when I tried to move it off the drive and not whilst on the move!

I ordered the rear brake pipes from Milners and have them but due to where the truck is parked (very close to the side of my house) it's difficult to gain access.

I'm probably going to have to get it recovered to local garage and ask them to change the pipes.

 

[karl2000]

This was my concern, can this happen while driving? And is there any backup safety mechanism if break or fuel pipes go off while driving

I think it can happen any time - the brake pipes weaken, then under the extreme pressure of the brake fluid when braking, it bursts.

The experts here will be able to explain it better, but my understanding is the the design of the brakes puts the front and rear brakes on different circuits, so if one fails the other should still work. But once you have a leak in one, it all deteriorates, you will lose fluid, your pedal will eventually fall to the floor and you'll lose them all. Obviously if you have a brake master cylinder failure, you will lose front and back at once.

Mine went after the car had been standing a while and the leak was at the back. So the fronts still worked for a short while, but it was obvious there was a problem when braking.

The handbrake (traditionally, anyway - dont know about these fancy electronic handbrakes) is mechanical -its on a cable and doesn't use the hydraulic brake lines. So in a complete failure, thats all you have left. I was always taught that if the brakes went, slow down on the gears as much as you can then use the handbrake to bring it to a complete stop. Low range was handy in the ML because it increases engine braking so you put less strain on the handbrake. Only for emergencies though obviously!

I think if your fuel pipe went, you'd end up with engine warning lights as your fuel pressure would drop. How much warning you'd get depends on the failure I suppose.

Brake pipes on the ML lasted 17 years

 

[Juddian]

Every now and then, usually at brake service time i put excessive pressure on the brake pedal and hold it there for a while, hoping to find any weak point in the safety of my drive rather than on the road.

I have suffered unexpected complete brake failure, many years ago driving my sisters Wartburg Knight.
Coming down the slip road A1 s/b at the Welwyn jct if i recall, foot went straight to the floor but fortunately i've never been one for approaching junctions ate breakneck speed and the truly excellent handbrake did the job well, just as well because two stoke engines have little in the form of engine braking regardless of whether the free wheel device is on or not.
After a while the brakes returned, i changed the fluid and that situation never repeated.

Have had brake fade a few times, namely on my '71 Mustang which sported a 5.7 V8 and unassisited drum brakes all round, any braking from the easily reached 3 figure speeds would result in violent shaking.
Wish i still had it mind, worth a fortune now.

Have no intention of ever owning a vehicle with electric park brake, that joins robotised gearboxes reagrdless of how many clutches they might have as no ta.

 

[Tractionman]

Raj, if brake pipe fails it wont stop, - if fuel pipe fails it won't go, lol....... I'll get my coat !!

 

[Raj]

Thank you Karl. That’s helpful. I ll get all my cars inspected. I never washed my cars underneath, didn’t knew about rust until I got Landcruiser