Rustproofing, updating methods and products.

[Tractionman]

Good job Robert was on the ball with the mud Raj. After having it commercially cleaned, then the garage who did your repairs cleaned it ? , looks like they didn't bother. Good decision not to have those clowns at the garage to treat the underside, and go elsewhere.

 

[Juddian]

Indeed Tractionman, glad i have the kit to clean the undersides properly meself seeing the professionals seem incapable of removing mud, as with almost everything else these days you want a job doing proper you got to get down and do it yersen.

 

[Raj]

Karl it was an old VW transporter

 

[Raj]

they

Dealers didn’t do anything except the suspension job. It’s typical business men. They talk big n deliver only the most beneficial products to themselves I ll take care of the rest of the car is atleast in minimum good condition. I did take off a lot of mud from underside while polishing the car, Rob took of some

 

[Raj]

Sometimes we can’t blame anyone, Covid changed everything. Hotels increased prices, car dealers are among those badly effected

 

[Tractionman]

Yep, very true Juddian, the only way to be certain. If the 'experts or specialists' miss mud when cleaning, what else do they miss and cover up, when given the complete job ?

 

[Tractionman]

Raj, covid did change a lot of things, and a lot of businesses lost. but covid doesn't affect the man on the jetwash's professionalism. He has it, or he doesn't
Glad you're in a better place with your lc now, and its done and behind you.

 

[Raj]

I got the sprinkler idea from this thread, when I went to pub meet I asked Trevor what the big hole behind the tyre was. This hole was full of mud. He told it’s across n I can water that hole. Then I dared n left low speed water hose into that hole all water came out from other side with mud.
next time I don’t need to pay anyone to do this job

 

[Tractionman]

Loads of good member info like that on here Raj. That's the sort of jobs we like, no cash changing hands.

 

[David]

Mine at Krown a few weeks ago having a touch spray last done in 2018, on the whole I'm pretty pleased with it but the truck had zero rust when 1st applied

 

[MisterCruiser]

I have rust treated my 90 series a few times now since I bought it 7/8 years ago, got the sills welded / patched when first bought it, then I have been cleaning and painting it every 2nd/3rd yr since. Had to get them same patches re-welded (done by myself and a mate this time) around yr and half ago along with some new patches. All in the sills except for 1 or 2 patches towards the very rear of the chasis frame. I done a good big job on it that time, I cleaned it all down to clean metal, removed fuel tank, etc,,, grinded / welded / painted with Owatrol rust preventitive liquid, and then painted 2 coats of Owatrol black paint. Was a good weeks work during lockdown.

I was looking under it last weekend and it seems to have held up well, a lot of the paint is gone off the sills but there are no new rust holes, just surface rust I think, I'm going to clean up the just the sills again now and re-paint them as they seem to be the main weak point on mine, my chasis is very good, but to be honest it's becoming a pain in the balls having to keep on top of it every 2 yrs or so.

Is there really a "job" you can do on it that'll last 10 yrs. I'm not convinced, the majority of folk saying they got such treatment to last 10 yrs had it applied to a much newer vehicle where it wouldn't have rusted anyway. Mine is 24 yrs old and I think at this age your looking at re-treating it every 2/3 yrs max.

I have avoided wax-oyl and Schultz such products except for on wheel arches as I was told if the finish cracks and water gets behind it it will trap it and rot it so I have always went for the more laboursome painting method thinking it was a better job but I'm not sure now. I might try the Schultz on the sills this time round. That epoxy paint mentioned above sounds interesting if it will last longer, not sure whats involved in applying it though.

 

[Raj]

Hi MisterCruiser,
That’s a lot of work you did to maintain. I gave the car at Krown n it’s a 3 hr wait. As mentioned if it’s stopping rust at its current position, it seem to be good alternative with a recoat every 2 years

 

[Tractionman]

3 hours ? Hardly time for a brew !

 

[Jon_Tallis]

I know lots of people recommend Krown but I'm a bit sceptical that they can do a really through treatment in just 3hours, especially on an older vehicle. Also their own description of their preparation seems like it's intended for fairly rust-free vehicles.
I opted for Dinitrol treatment when I got my '80 at a licensed Dinitrol service centre. Preparation involved full steam-clean, heated dry-out, hand removal (scrapers and wire brushes) of all visible rust and loose or flaking underseal plus 3 coats of rust converter, coating and sealer. Took a week to complete! Wasn't cheap but come with a 5 year anti-corrosion warranty provided they re-inspect it annually.

 

[Juddian]

That's a thorough job Jon Tallis, and no none of this work is cheap.

As Mister Cruiser, i did mine originally with Bilt Hamber's stuff, but even that was starting to flake, so blasted the loose off with my L shaped lance.
Been using ACF50 for a couple of years now chain lube would probably do the same job), it goes on easy, especially if heated it goes through a garden sprayer well.

This year i recoated the insides of the chassis with BH's cavity waxes, then smothered the chassis back axle and suspension parts where i could get in waterproof ( marine use) grease, then sprayed all over especially in difficult to reach areas with ACF50, then couple of weeks ago gave the undersides another blast with ACF50 so ready now for the winter.
Just doing the spraying its a now only a 15 minute job once the motor is up on all 4 ramps, but i make sure to cover the drive in cardboard or an old carpet, it drips for a few hours after spraying.

So far this method is working out well, tile will tell, its probably not what the purists would like to see, ie nicely painted etc, but really there's too many areas and too many hidden crevices on a Cruiser for such niceties, but of course it needs a top up every year so is really just an alternative DIY method.

 

[Jacob100]

It took a lot longer than three hours when I went to Krown. We had a full day at Dudley Zoo and Rob was still hard at work when we got back.

 

[Tractionman]

Realistically, there couldn't have been much prep in that amount of time, yet alone the treatment ?

 

[Raj]

I was asked to come back to Krown after 2 years but I ll get sprayed every year but next year ll do it in September just before winter. I would like to do it Juddian or MrCruiser way but that’s way above my skills n capacity so Krown every year for peace of mind

 

[Juddian]

No skills involved really Raj, its overalls hat safety glasses and face mask, then hope you don't get too much slop on the driveway and earn the wrath of the lady of the house.
Back when all there really was for this purpose was Waxoyl the job was a nightmare, you'd have to heat the stuff in hot water and you'd still be getting regular blockages trying to spray it on, i always reckoned the best thing to do was tip the first canful over your head because you'd end up covered in the stuff anyway so might as well get it over and done with.
And the stink?, awful which would last for months on end.

I reckon your way is best, drive to Wolves, drink tea, eat biscuits, go for a wander, pay the man and drive home...yep your method beats mine into a cocked hat.

 

[chadr]

I just saw this on my YT feed, probably not suitable for In-situ work but looks great for components once off the car.