Steering Damper

[Scoop]

Has anybody successfully separated the steering damper from the relay arm ball joint? I want to reuse the damper so a forked ball joint separator is no use cos it'll tear the gaiter. Difficult to apply heat for the same reason. Resigned to renewing the damper at this rate unless I use a disc cutter!

Currently running without the damper and can't tell much difference to be honest though I rarely go much over 55 cos I'm always towing

 

[Scoop]

Has anybody successfully separated the steering damper from the relay arm ball joint? I want to reuse the damper so a forked ball joint separator is no use cos it'll tear the gaiter. Difficult to apply heat for the same reason. Resigned to renewing the damper at this rate unless I use a disc cutter!

Currently running without the damper and can't tell much difference to be honest though I rarely go much over 55 cos I'm always towing

Did it - TOP TIP -
I applied a disc cutter on the old relay arm ball joint and cut very close to the thread about half way into the ball joint. The resulting heat close to the thread was enough for me to knock it out with a soft nosed hammer

 

[Gary Stockton]

strange - I used a ball joint seperator on mine - worked ok for me. Must have been lucky

 

[frank rabbets]

Don't buy a cheap one. Not worth the wire and tinsel they are made from. Nice photo of the genuine article on their advert but crap arrived. Also too short and when checking OFF the car the tapered pins would not go into their holes. That meant if fitted the steering would be stretching the thing apart. I've seen stronger bicycle pumps. Milners have taken their picture down.

 

[Dave2000]

The correct ball joint separator does not touch the rubber, there is another method but it takes some accuracy. Use a copper headed mallet and strike the cast iron straight, using that picture as a guide the mallet head would be parallel with the grind line, the copper will not fracture the cast iron, and leave the nut on a few turns to protect the joint thread if your aim is off.

I have been using this method for years where typical joint separators do not work, and the factory one designed for whatever particular model car is not available, only last week I changed the springs on a Mercedes E class, the common failure mode is when for whatever reason when parked they simply snap and the car drops to the floor.........no seriously it really does happen. During changing the fork type would damage the rubbers as mentioned, and a 'normal' separator is simply not the right shape to get around the upper wishbone, I just had to be careful not to hit the wheel arch!

regards

Dave