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Steering Rack Play/Knock

MarkW

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Aug 20, 2014
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morocco


So some of you will have read about the knock on the drivers side front wheel during the Morocco trip, further inspection has revealed that the inner joint needs replacing.

As today is dry (ish) I decided to make a start, having removed the boot the play in the joint is clear but there is also movement in the main shaft from the Steering rack.

Is this play normal or do I need a new rack?????
 
There is a tensioner to allow you to adjust slack in main steering rack.
There is a bolt and locknut on drivers side, facing rear wards.
Don't over tighten as steering will end up binding, you can also replace the bushing that applies the tension


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If you adjust your rack play, I'd really appreciate how you went about doing it. I have some play and would like to sharpen it back up...
 
On a Colorado there is a common issue with the rack mounting bushes. These wear and allow the whole rack to move side to side when steering. This is all movement that SHOULD go into steering input. Clearly Mark's ball joint is stuffed there and needs doing, but you need to check the mountings too. The bug nut shown in the video relates to a pre load of sorts and doesn't typically seem to need a deal of adjustment. With no other obvious play, get someone to rock the steering wheel back and forth with the wheels on the ground and the engine off. You will be able to see if the whole rack is sliding back and forth in its bushes. Any more than a few mm and it should be an MOT failure.

When mine went, it was a very new problem and even Toyota didn't seem to have seen it before. I had Milner rebush my rack for me (I did say it was a long time ago) and that cost me £50. But the difference it made was huge. People have since done the same repair and had good results. Made easier if you have a decent workshop and you're not scrabbling around on the drive.

That little torque gauge is nice and I happen to know that Trevor at Freedom 4x4 has one. They are very expensive. Might be worth you asking Trev to have a look. He's pretty close to you.
 
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New ball joint on fairly straight forward job except a FB Spanner is needed which needs to be quite thin. Getting the old one off was ok but getting the new one tight was more of a headache.

All not helped by horizontal rain and howling wind. I'll need to get back under to check the inner side is tight then tighten the lock nut, peen over the locking washer and do up the boot clamps.

All parts came from RT for £30 delivered the only complaint is the supplied metal tie for the boot are a bit iffy.

If your overlanding in a 95 I would suggesting bunging a spare joint in the spares box particularly on higher mileage trucks with off road use, its cheap and simple job to do on the road providing you have the right FB Spanner but a failure could be serious in the middle of nowhere. The knocking does seem to give good warning of a problem sometime before the whole steering comes apart
 
All finished, in summary replacing the inner joint is possible with the rack on the truck and without removing the outer track rod, however peening over the lock washer is a bit tricky as the ARB gets in the way
 
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