She'd be OK if I told her it was a grand and from that chap Drew Pritchard in Wales 
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'SWAMPY' MY 02 LWB 3.0 D4D GX Colorado
- Thread starter sae70
- Start date
Chris suggested a good radiator clean was worth the effort on another thread and following the hot weekend I just had in Wales I decided to do just that. It was already on my list of things to do following a cursory glance between the cowl and the radiator from below a couple of weeks back I'd established that there may be a build of of some mud on the radiator that could possibly be causing a reduction in cooling performance.
What I found though beggars belief
Drained the precious PINK GOLD in to a clean bucket
Tore out the radiator, managing to only shear the one bolt.
Back of the air-con rad looks a bit dirty, but I'll come back to that later on.
Because the radiator is in a state that I could almost not believe!!!
This is the side facing the air-con rad.
This is the side facing the engine.
It was about two or three mm's thick on the surface!
So I set about gently rinsing it all off and through.
I then removed the viscous fan to give me more room to do the same to the air-con rad.
This is what came out of the two rads!!!!
While the viscous fan was off I tested it with a hot air gun and all worked as I'd hoped it would. I didn't suspect it of not working, but thought I'd just check while it was off. I gave the spindle a good squirt of PlusGas while it was in my hand.
I also took the chance to look inside the ATF cooler rad and this does not look the same as the copper tube one pictured in the other thread. This one looks more like a multi-layered mini radiator! I'm pretty certain that this must be the original radiator, so maybe pattern rads have a different style of oil cooler fitted.
While I was in there I popped off the cam belt cover to give it a quick check. It's not due a change till next year or 25,000miles, but I may change it while it's nice and accessible.
What I found though beggars belief
Drained the precious PINK GOLD in to a clean bucket
Tore out the radiator, managing to only shear the one bolt.
Back of the air-con rad looks a bit dirty, but I'll come back to that later on.
Because the radiator is in a state that I could almost not believe!!!
This is the side facing the air-con rad.
This is the side facing the engine.
It was about two or three mm's thick on the surface!
So I set about gently rinsing it all off and through.
I then removed the viscous fan to give me more room to do the same to the air-con rad.
This is what came out of the two rads!!!!
While the viscous fan was off I tested it with a hot air gun and all worked as I'd hoped it would. I didn't suspect it of not working, but thought I'd just check while it was off. I gave the spindle a good squirt of PlusGas while it was in my hand.
I also took the chance to look inside the ATF cooler rad and this does not look the same as the copper tube one pictured in the other thread. This one looks more like a multi-layered mini radiator! I'm pretty certain that this must be the original radiator, so maybe pattern rads have a different style of oil cooler fitted.
While I was in there I popped off the cam belt cover to give it a quick check. It's not due a change till next year or 25,000miles, but I may change it while it's nice and accessible.
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golly! (am I allowed to use that?)
Unreal amount of crud!
Unreal amount of crud!
Had the same issues with LB over heating, similar looking pics: http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/40926-Radiator-Overheating
its a wonder that there's any sand left at Lincomb considering how much we all take away with us!!!Steve, don't wash all that mud away, plant something.
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I know! I was aware that the radiator looked dirty behind the cowl, but could not believe how bad it was when I removed it! If i had not suffered with the ATF getting hot whilst up in Wales I'd've probably not bothered removing and cleaning the radiator before Lincomb. I had no idea it was as bad as it was! The silly thing is that the only thing that overheated whilst up in Wales was the auto-box and that's running its own ATF oil cooler that's no longer conected in any way to the radiator! Probably a good job as the extra heat from the gearbox may have tipped the blocked rad over the edge!!!Cant believe you washed all that out of the rad(s) and that your engine hadnt been overheating!
Ive just ordered a new rad cap and thermostat from Roughtrax to complete the cooling system overhaul
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Just had a load of parts delivered from RoughTrax and Milners ready to give Swampy a service and overhaul
Filters, genuine oil, genuine thermostat, genuine rad cap and genuine cam belt from RoughTrax
Cam belt kit with a genuine plunger and good quality NSK idler bearing, German made serpentine belt and a steering rack boot to replace a damaged one.
I've also just ordered a new LH front axle oil seal from the MD as the one on Swampy is weeping slightly.
Busy weekend planned
Filters, genuine oil, genuine thermostat, genuine rad cap and genuine cam belt from RoughTrax
Cam belt kit with a genuine plunger and good quality NSK idler bearing, German made serpentine belt and a steering rack boot to replace a damaged one.
I've also just ordered a new LH front axle oil seal from the MD as the one on Swampy is weeping slightly.
Busy weekend planned
Had a very satisfying weekend servicing the truck
Started with the Cam-Belt.
Removed the cover and got all of the marks to line up including the crank pulley marks.
Then cut the old Cam-Belt free.
I removed the idler pulley using a 10mm HEX drive.
And the belt tensioner piston using a 10mm socket.
Comparing the idler pulley that I'd removed that I'm fairly certain is OE to the good quality one that I bought from Millners I came to the conclusion that they are one of the same unit. Both have a Japan made NSK bearing and the castings are a pretty good match.
It's a good job that I decided to do a Cam-Belt service while the radiator was out as the outgoing idler pulley had started to show signs of wear and unwanted play! If I had gone with the service indicator then it was not due a Cam-Belt service for about eighteen months or twenty five odd thousand miles and that may have been to late for the old idler pulley!
The replacement belt tensioner piston was an OE Toyota packaged item and could have been the twin of the one I removed.
A quick blast of air to clear any debris and dust.
Had a quick check to make certain that the marks were still lined up. I tried to turn the Cam-Belt sprockets by hand just to see how easy it would have been to accidentally knock them around and I didn't manage to turn them easily.
I then started to put all of the new components back on starting with the idler pulley. I gave the idler pulley pivot pin a clean and the meanest smear of grease before refitting it. I've no idea if this is right or wrong, but it just felt like the right thing to do
Popped the backing washer back on.
And fitted it back on hand tight only.
Did the same with the new belt tensioner piston.
And then torqued them both up. The idler pulley pivot to 34Nm and the belt tensioner piston bolts to 13Nm.
Popped on the Cam-Belt over the lower sprocket first.
Then slid it over the top one.
Checked everything was still lined up and while holding the belt taught with one hand pulled the pin out of the belt tensioner piston to tension the belt.
All done bar fitting the timing belt cover back on.
I turned the crank over a couple of times by hand just to satisfy myself that I had not made a major error somewhere along the way
One oddity that came to light though was that the OE belt that was supplied had a different part number to the one that I removed! A quick check on ToyoDiy suggested even another part number for the belt altogether?! After some questioning and a search on t internet it was decided that these were just superseded part numbers and all was fine
Started with the Cam-Belt.
Removed the cover and got all of the marks to line up including the crank pulley marks.
Then cut the old Cam-Belt free.
I removed the idler pulley using a 10mm HEX drive.
And the belt tensioner piston using a 10mm socket.
Comparing the idler pulley that I'd removed that I'm fairly certain is OE to the good quality one that I bought from Millners I came to the conclusion that they are one of the same unit. Both have a Japan made NSK bearing and the castings are a pretty good match.
It's a good job that I decided to do a Cam-Belt service while the radiator was out as the outgoing idler pulley had started to show signs of wear and unwanted play! If I had gone with the service indicator then it was not due a Cam-Belt service for about eighteen months or twenty five odd thousand miles and that may have been to late for the old idler pulley!
The replacement belt tensioner piston was an OE Toyota packaged item and could have been the twin of the one I removed.
A quick blast of air to clear any debris and dust.
Had a quick check to make certain that the marks were still lined up. I tried to turn the Cam-Belt sprockets by hand just to see how easy it would have been to accidentally knock them around and I didn't manage to turn them easily.
I then started to put all of the new components back on starting with the idler pulley. I gave the idler pulley pivot pin a clean and the meanest smear of grease before refitting it. I've no idea if this is right or wrong, but it just felt like the right thing to do
Popped the backing washer back on.
And fitted it back on hand tight only.
Did the same with the new belt tensioner piston.
And then torqued them both up. The idler pulley pivot to 34Nm and the belt tensioner piston bolts to 13Nm.
Popped on the Cam-Belt over the lower sprocket first.
Then slid it over the top one.
Checked everything was still lined up and while holding the belt taught with one hand pulled the pin out of the belt tensioner piston to tension the belt.
All done bar fitting the timing belt cover back on.
I turned the crank over a couple of times by hand just to satisfy myself that I had not made a major error somewhere along the way
One oddity that came to light though was that the OE belt that was supplied had a different part number to the one that I removed! A quick check on ToyoDiy suggested even another part number for the belt altogether?! After some questioning and a search on t internet it was decided that these were just superseded part numbers and all was fine
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great job and great piccies! Makes me want to attempt doing mine...one day..........
Thanks for your kind words, thoughts and advice guys 
I would have continued with the post talking about fitting the new thermostat, serpentine belt and service, but the whole internet went on a 2min pause between clicks here! So I posted what I had, tomorrow for the rest fingers crossed
I would have continued with the post talking about fitting the new thermostat, serpentine belt and service, but the whole internet went on a 2min pause between clicks here! So I posted what I had, tomorrow for the rest fingers crossed
Next job was to fit the new thermostat. I decided to tackle this before I fitted the new serpentine belt as I't looked as though I'd need to remove the alternator to gain better access to the area around the thermostat housing.
As the job went on I not only removed the alternator, but the air inlet pipework from the air filter to the turbo charger!
The engine oil dip stick tube.
The alternator.
Another part of the turbo plumbing and a bracket attaching the ATF pipes to the thermostat housing.
Eventually I was able to remove the pipe housing the thermostat
New thermostat is on the left.
Due to the amount of effort involved in getting the old thermostat out I decided to test them both before putting the new one in.
So cracked out the new Coleman PerfectFlow Propane stove and got a pan of water on the boil.
Interestingly the old thermostat started to open just before the new one at almost exactly 80 C, but at 90+ C the new one had opened further than the old one.
What a god awful job fitting a new thermostat is in the D4-D! New cam belt fitted in less than thirty minutes, Serpentine belt fitted in less that a minute and a service done in under an hour. Fit a new thermostat though three hours of frustration!!! When searching through Google others speak of removing the Air-Con pump to replace the thermostat!!!
As the job went on I not only removed the alternator, but the air inlet pipework from the air filter to the turbo charger!
The engine oil dip stick tube.
The alternator.
Another part of the turbo plumbing and a bracket attaching the ATF pipes to the thermostat housing.
Eventually I was able to remove the pipe housing the thermostat
New thermostat is on the left.
Due to the amount of effort involved in getting the old thermostat out I decided to test them both before putting the new one in.
So cracked out the new Coleman PerfectFlow Propane stove and got a pan of water on the boil.
Interestingly the old thermostat started to open just before the new one at almost exactly 80 C, but at 90+ C the new one had opened further than the old one.
What a god awful job fitting a new thermostat is in the D4-D! New cam belt fitted in less than thirty minutes, Serpentine belt fitted in less that a minute and a service done in under an hour. Fit a new thermostat though three hours of frustration!!! When searching through Google others speak of removing the Air-Con pump to replace the thermostat!!!
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what a PITA !
I have a new thermostat to fit, I hope its easier on the old model
Reminds me, I must order my new oil cooler pipework (new aux cooler arrived from states yesterday!)
I have a new thermostat to fit, I hope its easier on the old model
Reminds me, I must order my new oil cooler pipework (new aux cooler arrived from states yesterday!)
Compared to the thermostat the serpentine belt replacement was an absolute doddle once I had the correct length belt!
The first belt I bought was for a Land Cruiser Colorado/Prado with Air-Con and was 1640mm long. This way to short for Swampy though! Swampy also has the heat pump thing going on and requires a belt 1933mm long!
New belt bought
New belt for Colorado/Prado with Air-Con and Heat Pump around belt for one with Air-Con only.
I reckon it takes me longer to open the door, sit in the truck and start the engine than to do this job
First thing I did was to wrap the new belt around the pulleys as in the diagram shown on top of the air filter housing, leaving a loop ready to pull over the alternator.
Then using a medium breaker bar for leverage with a 14mm socket on the end I placed it on to the tensioner pulley pulley nut and turned the nut clockwise as though doing it up. This pushes the tensioner pulley down allowing enough slack to finishing fitting the serpentine belt over the alternator pulley. When the belt is over all of the pulleys release the tensioner and the job is done.
New belt on
The first belt I bought was for a Land Cruiser Colorado/Prado with Air-Con and was 1640mm long. This way to short for Swampy though! Swampy also has the heat pump thing going on and requires a belt 1933mm long!
New belt bought
New belt for Colorado/Prado with Air-Con and Heat Pump around belt for one with Air-Con only.
I reckon it takes me longer to open the door, sit in the truck and start the engine than to do this job
First thing I did was to wrap the new belt around the pulleys as in the diagram shown on top of the air filter housing, leaving a loop ready to pull over the alternator.
Then using a medium breaker bar for leverage with a 14mm socket on the end I placed it on to the tensioner pulley pulley nut and turned the nut clockwise as though doing it up. This pushes the tensioner pulley down allowing enough slack to finishing fitting the serpentine belt over the alternator pulley. When the belt is over all of the pulleys release the tensioner and the job is done.
New belt on
