TLC HJ61 total reconditioning

[oding]

I found what I was looking for in a rubber matting. a checkered design rubber matting that is 2mm thick. Perfect!!

 

[oding]

I spent the last two days shop cleaning, throw away junk and organizing for the coming year 2016.














Happy New Year evryone!!

 

[oding]

Took pictures of my shop this 2016 morning.

 

[Pat]

Do you use oxy- acetylene mix for all your heating,brazing etc? Just recently a young engineer mate talked me into using
lpg- oxy mix for heating and cutting.Appeciate your comments.You have a very tidy shop.

 

[oding]

Do you use oxy- acetylene mix for all your heating,brazing etc? Just recently a young engineer mate talked me into using
lpg- oxy mix for heating and cutting.Appeciate your comments.You have a very tidy shop.

Hi Pat, I do not use this oxy-acetylene for cutting and/or welding metal. I do not have the know how. I have this gardener who knows how to use this equipment but is not really that good. What I know is that this is an old tech. Plasma cutters and Mig/Tig welds are the new tech. They are much easier to use. You have to be skilled using the oxy-acetylene weld and are tedious, bulky and comes out expensive to maintain. They heat the metal to a very high temp and ends up warping it. Personally, Tig welding is the best but costs more than the Mig welding.

We have lots of skilled welders who are really good at using this low tech welding equipment. But they are getting to be a pain in the neck. Most of the good ones have migrated to Canada and Australia. The ones left are products of being too proud and being just plain lazy. But I've seen very good welders that you can hardly see or feel the welded joints.

Lpg-oxy mix is used here for the purpose of cutting steel only. Try the Mig or Tig weld because they are very easy to use and cheap.

 

[clivehorridge]

Hi Pat, I do not use this oxy-acetylene for cutting and/or welding metal. I do not have the know how. I have this gardener who knows how to use this equipment but is not really that good. What I know is that this is an old tech. Plasma cutters and Mig/Tig welds are the new tech. They are much easier to use. You have to be skilled using the oxy-acetylene weld and are tedious, bulky and comes out expensive to maintain. They heat the metal to a very high temp and ends up warping it. Personally, Tig welding is the best but costs more than the Mig welding.

We have lots of skilled welders who are really good at using this low tech welding equipment. But they are getting to be a pain in the neck. Most of the good ones have migrated to Canada and Australia. The ones left are products of being too proud and being just plain lazy. But I've seen very good welders that you can hardly see or feel the welded joints.

Lpg-oxy mix is used here for the purpose of cutting steel only. Try the Mig or Tig weld because they are very easy to use and cheap.

I learned to oxy-acetylene cut & weld as a teenager, but I've never welded with anything electric.

One secret with o/a is to choose the right nozzle. Too big and you're blowing holes, too small and you end up piling in loads of heat without getting a weld pool. But IMO once you get a weld pool going at the tight temperature (i.e. not burning) the welds you can achieve are lovely and smooth and well penetrated. You can see what you're doing at all times, particularly that critical moment when the steel "sweats" indicating it's really close to melting point.

I watched Ben's thread with interest when he was learning and I don't think it's possible to weld better than he can now.

For thin body panel welding, there are several tricks you can deploy to stop or reduce stray heat warping. I had some asbestos type putty (not asbestos but a similar material that could be re-hydrated) which when mixed correctly, could be applied around the weld to absorb unwanted stray heat.

One advantage with o/a is that rust is burned away as you go, so for eg. on a rusty floor pan, you know when you have good steel to weld to.

It's also very versatile, for brazing, cutting, and even soldering let alone freeing off rusted nuts and bolts and seized pivot bearings, bushings and the like.

Now I'm garage/workshop-less, I miss my o/a kit more than I would ever imagine.

 

[oding]

I learned to oxy-acetylene cut & weld as a teenager, but I've never welded with anything electric.

One secret with o/a is to choose the right nozzle. Too big and you're blowing holes, too small and you end up piling in loads of heat without getting a weld pool. But IMO once you get a weld pool going at the tight temperature (i.e. not burning) the welds you can achieve are lovely and smooth and well penetrated. You can see what you're doing at all times, particularly that critical moment when the steel "sweats" indicating it's really close to melting point.

I watched Ben's thread with interest when he was learning and I don't think it's possible to weld better than he can now.

For thin body panel welding, there are several tricks you can deploy to stop or reduce stray heat warping. I had some asbestos type putty (not asbestos but a similar material that could be re-hydrated) which when mixed correctly, could be applied around the weld to absorb unwanted stray heat.

One advantage with o/a is that rust is burned away as you go, so for eg. on a rusty floor pan, you know when you have good steel to weld to.

It's also very versatile, for brazing, cutting, and even soldering let alone freeing off rusted nuts and bolts and seized pivot bearings, bushings and the like.

Now I'm garage/workshop-less, I miss my o/a kit more than I would ever imagine.

I would love to learn oxy-acetylene welding. Just do not have the time anymore. Thanks Clive for the input.

 

[oding]

I got my welding equipment ready as I will be doing some metal works.








Finally, my shop.







The shop extension. Projects waiting in line.



My DIY sand blaster cabinet.

 

[oding]

The seats were stripped bare and treated with rust converter. Spray painted red oxide primer. Assembled temporarily before painting flat black color.

 

[oding]

Update on the seats.


































Installing the springs.











http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/...ive Restoration/HJ61 Recondition/DSC02819.jpg[/IMG

http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr44/oding912/Automotive%20Restoration/HJ61%20Recondition/DSC02820.jpg

Hope you enjoy the pictures. Everything is self explanatory. I would be willing to answer questions if any.

Have a great weekend everybody. :thumbup:

 

[Francesco]

Homeric, no question

 

[oding]

Installed anti-squeak pads.















Everything is ready. Upholstery guy will install seat cover next week.

 

[oding]

Did some electrical work on the rear portion. Everything done except for the license plate light.

 

[Shayne]

If this like button was featured on the forum when you started this thread Oding i'm sure you would hold the record for most thumbs up for a very long time

 

[oding]

Got to try on the old but still in good condition carpet.






















Just needs cleaning and a few adjustments on the fit.

 

[oding]

Also worked on some electrical connections.




Can you spot the cat. Name is Tonying.




Burnt headlight connector.





A big "Made in the USA".

 

[oding]

Prepping up the seat hardware.

 

[oding]

Door switches ready for installation.

 

[oding]

Finished painting, will apply topcoat tomorrow.














If you're wondering what are those sticks, they are bamboo sticks for barbecue.



Looks yummy.

 

[StarCruiser]

I was thinking it looked like a kebab house there for a minute Oding. [emoji4]
More good work there. [emoji4]