I learned to oxy-acetylene cut & weld as a teenager, but I've never welded with anything electric.
One secret with o/a is to choose the right nozzle. Too big and you're blowing holes, too small and you end up piling in loads of heat without getting a weld pool. But IMO once you get a weld pool going at the tight temperature (i.e. not burning) the welds you can achieve are lovely and smooth and well penetrated. You can see what you're doing at all times, particularly that critical moment when the steel "sweats" indicating it's really close to melting point.
I watched Ben's thread with interest when he was learning and I don't think it's possible to weld better than he can now.
For thin body panel welding, there are several tricks you can deploy to stop or reduce stray heat warping. I had some asbestos type putty (not asbestos but a similar material that could be re-hydrated) which when mixed correctly, could be applied around the weld to absorb unwanted stray heat.
One advantage with o/a is that rust is burned away as you go, so for eg. on a rusty floor pan, you know when you have good steel to weld to.
It's also very versatile, for brazing, cutting, and even soldering let alone freeing off rusted nuts and bolts and seized pivot bearings, bushings and the like.
Now I'm garage/workshop-less, I miss my o/a kit more than I would ever imagine.