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Who is doing what maintenance today?
- Thread starter warrenpfo
- Start date
If you have a look in Jon's build thread Clive you will see
Thanks Grant, just seen it and it's what I guessed! Nice job too. I've never bent one, but I've slid over a few tree trunks in the past, knowing that I'm sliding on the lowers.
Red Oktober
Well-Known Member
yes I know the mounts are backwards ..... was taken down separately then put together to keep all the bits together
Gary820
Well-Known Member
Fitted a new shaft seal this eve 
the rubber bit the steering column goes through on the bulkhead. Made a dividing piece for the storage area in the centre console as want to divide stuff up in there.
Bolted the new roof rack on and loaded the boot up as going to the Yorkshire Dales over the weekend, just need to pick the 80 up from the workshop, give it a wash and put some more petrol in lol.
the rubber bit the steering column goes through on the bulkhead. Made a dividing piece for the storage area in the centre console as want to divide stuff up in there.Bolted the new roof rack on and loaded the boot up as going to the Yorkshire Dales over the weekend, just need to pick the 80 up from the workshop, give it a wash and put some more petrol in lol.
silvercruiser
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Fitted a new shaft seal this eve
Bolted the new roof rack on and loaded the boot up as going to the Yorkshire Dales over the weekend, just need to pick the 80 up from the workshop, give it a wash and put some more petrol in lol.
These new dual fuel landcruisers sound great
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Gary820
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These new dual fuel landcruisers sound great
Dual as in put twice as much in as everyone else
stumog
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Stainless bolts are generally not as strong as steel they are less then 8.8. You can get a higher tensile Stainless bolt but are very expensive. I have brought them before for a job in a bakery when had to be SS. I would just leave as you have done may be add some copper slip as you assemble.
Stu
Stu
stumog
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yes you really don't want SS wheel nuts. I don't even like SS allen key head bolts. They just round off if they have been out side for a while. I went to 'undo' some on my Roofrack SS into Alley. Ended up drilling out About 20 m8 csk bolts had to buy a corded drill as well cause I killed the battery one of doing it.
stu
stu
Slipped in some new window rubbers this lunchtime. Now, not only do the windows go up and down nicely, that actually GO up and down. 18 year year old rubber had turned into something like a plastic extrusion; like cable conduit. I could barely bend them to get them into the bin. Next week, tinting. Going to be reet posh so it is.
Funny really, I put new rubbers and new motors in the other truck and they're still rubbish. Never worked out why. Rear passenger side is the only one that's any good.
Funny really, I put new rubbers and new motors in the other truck and they're still rubbish. Never worked out why. Rear passenger side is the only one that's any good.
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I wish I had that luck with mine. I've replaced all rubbers and the passenger motor/regulator. All kind of working currently but definitely need more work still.
Grant, I have been looking at this. If you look at the motor, there is a little pinion that drives the rack. as the rubbers go hard and the load increases as well as the grease drying out, the bush inside wears and the pinion starts to 'weathervane' around in the bush leading to ever more binding. I have some old ones here and I have in my mind that there is the possibility to repair the bush so that it spins centrally again. If I can, then I could perhaps offer a solution for slow, grinding old motors.
only got 1 master key and 1 aftermarket clone of the master key when I bought the current 80 so recently got a new OEM key and have just programmed the OEM immobiliser to accept it.
I don't have anything inside my keys. My old truck has a loop of wire going around the ignition key barrel, but as far as I know the plastic bit of the key is solid. My new truck is the same (no wire loop and it had a very different alarm originally). I was digging around under the truck and found the original emergency key in a box taped up underneath. That is a plain steel with no plastic bobbins on the end. So have you got a chip or something inside the moulded plastic bit Jon?
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While we are talking about keys its worth mentioning my own mistake of trying to improve remote distance by removing the battery and green board from my fob and cleaning it with methylated spirits . I've done that many a time with laptop boards without a problem but it seemed to kill my fob .
When i took it to the key shop they said i left the fob battery out too long so the key had to be reset . So if your changing the battery yourself do it quick .
When i took it to the key shop they said i left the fob battery out too long so the key had to be reset . So if your changing the battery yourself do it quick .
The later 80's have a transponder in the key for the OEM immobiliser. On these the fuel shut off solenoid has a security cover and electronic controller that only powers up if the ECU talks nicely to it, you can't just shove 12v on it. On yours you can just put a wire between the battery + and the shut off solenoid and off you go. Good and bad in both types.
