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120 Series Packing system

Gary Stockton Feb 28, 2010

  1. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    So I started my packing systemdesign today, with Google Sketchup. What a pain to design it - but I think I've got the basics of the frame done:

    PackingFrame.jpg

    Getting the angles at the back for the seat-backs was a bit awkward ...

    PackingFrame2.jpg

    I can't afford the fancy Platinum drop-down fridge slider, so I'll get the Waeco one, which wil go in the 'box' on the left. SWMBO's a porg, so it has to go down low unless I carry a foot-stool for her, and that's not going to happen! The vehicle still has to go up another 60mm ....

    On the right will be two drawers approx 850mm deep, with tie-downs on top for other 'stuff' ...

    Not sure whether to hinge the wings or leave them as shelves. And I haven't decided whether to close them off at the front and rear either ... Decisions, decisions ...

    Will update as I go along. Behind the packing frame will be the Dog Guard, which I installed this afternoon ...
     
  2. Crispin

    Crispin Administrator Staff Member Guru I am in great_britain

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    nice!

    The two pieces that stick out one each side, do they fit over the seat clips?

    Once done(ish) you gonna share the file? ;)
     
  3. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    Yep - the 'wings' go over the side seat mounts with about 5mm clearance. So if I hinge them, I can stick stuff in there, but if I leave them fixed they become useful shelves / mounts etc. for maybe compressors etc.

    There's enough room behind the fridge area to mount the 3rd battery properly, in a plastic box from Staples and a battery holder thing from Halfords - all-in about £12.50 vs the £40 or so other folk want ... :p
     
  4. Crispin

    Crispin Administrator Staff Member Guru I am in great_britain

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    How about jack access? Would the wings hinged up give enough room to open the flap?

    Why not shorten the drawers slightly and build in a void in the rear for one of them water bags I saw on another forum? ;)
     
  5. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    hmm - forgot the water tank - it has to go behind the drawers with a pump and hose :oops:
     
  6. Crispin

    Crispin Administrator Staff Member Guru I am in great_britain

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    If you shortened the whole lot and built in a box, the bag would fill and expand into the box. Might not get full use of it all but would be neat and out of sight.
    Depends on the depth of your fridge though.
     
  7. Chris

    Chris Super Moderator Supporter I am in europe

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    Need any bits welding on that? Or is it all chip board and screws (I hope not)

    C
     
  8. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    Won't be chip board. Not sure what I'm going to do for a frame - yet :p
     
  9. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    OK - I'm going back tot he drawing board on this one - will post an update asap. But the fundamental design will remain - just got to make the wing on the left flap up in front for the toolbox (jack and tyre pliers / tyre plugs) and add in the water tanks at the back. I'll also put in an 8" deep drawer under the fridge I think, for kitchen basics ...

    Watch this space ... ;)
     
  10. Crispin

    Crispin Administrator Staff Member Guru I am in great_britain

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    Could you not include a hinged leg under the fridge slide? The idea being, heighten the fridge slightly and when you slide it out, there is a leg that drops out from under the fridge. The fridge can then tilt down but it's weight then rests on the leg which is inturn, resting on the bumper / boot floor etc.

    Not sure if that makes sens or is even worth it? It would afford some more room under the fridge as well as allowing not so tall people into the fridge.
     
  11. Chris

    Chris Super Moderator Supporter I am in europe

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    Crispin,

    quote It would afford some more room under the fridge as well as allowing not so tall people into the fridge

    Are you suggesting that Gary gets his own beer? :lol:

    C
     
  12. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    I looked at sliders that can tilt - quite expensive, and then everything in the fridge moves around. re-priced the Platinum slide from BOAB but too expensive still. Have now found a genuine WAECO slide unit that's quite pricey but resolves a few design issues for me :shock: (like I won't have to make the whole slider unit - yes, I know it's probably cheaper like that but time is starting to become an issue now ...)

    So I think I'll chop the left wing in 1/3 - 2/3 values to ease access, and add the drawer under the fridge. I'm also going to decrease the lower-level depth - my measurements get me 950mm deep by 1045mm wide for the base (want to check my measurements?? Remember the table on the door takes room ... :? ).

    I've found a 70 litre water tank (Fiamma, good brand) for a good price, so that'll go in the lower rear part of the system with a pump on the right wing and a hose out the right hand side to be next to the table, with a nozzle to actuate the on-demand pump. 70 litres seems enough, but do you know how much a female uses to shower with? :shock: :lol: :lol:

    I may leave the top drawer out and leave room for packing ammo-boxes, gear-bags, toilet, etc.

    So, for the aficionados - I'm going to use that fancy chop-board stuff from B&Q (Oriented Strand Board, Exterior). But what thickness to use? I was thinking about 8 - 12mm for the bottom and sides, 8mm for the top and 8mm for the centre section? And then with a ply-wood cover-over at the back. Then to cover the lot in marine carpet again, like the table ...

    I think :? :lol:

    Now to find someone who's better than me at woodwork (see - I knew I should have listened to Mr Mudge for 'O' Levels .. :cry: )
     
  13. Crispin

    Crispin Administrator Staff Member Guru I am in great_britain

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    My appologies. I should have seen the error. Ignore my "leg idea" Gary, just keep the fridge as low as possible.
     
  14. Jon Wildsmith

    Jon Wildsmith Super Moderator Supporter Guru I am in england

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    8mm seems a bit thin Gary, I'm using 9mm to skin a steel frame! If you're not going side to side unsupported then I'd say 18mm good quality ply. If you're going side to side only supported at the sides then even that will bend ;)
     
  15. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    There'll be a centre support as well. Still wondering about the internal frame with wooden skin, but have absolutely zero welding skills or equipment :shock:

    So I'll go with the 9mm sheet for the floor and centre bit, and the 15mm for the top, with end bits and inserts / braces etc at 11mm. If it breaks, it breaks - the wood isn't terribly expensive anyway :cry:

    Need to get some turnbuckles also to hold it all down, and some cargo-rail for the top with tie-down rings to lash it all down ...
     
  16. Paul

    Paul Well-Known Member I am in england

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    Don't forget some ventilation for the fridge.

    The last project i did like this i went to homebase with all the sizes of the larger panels (mapped out on a chart to minimise loss) and they cut it out for free with a decent chop saw. Had this done once (just to get it in the car)and the guy there was very good so always asked for him, not sure about other stores though. Also, if you hit the button on the desk where they cut the wood it starts a countdown and if they dont get there in 2 mins you get 10 percent off.
     
  17. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    Cheers - was going to take a cutting list anyway - but a bit worried because when I did that for the rear door table, I gave the instructions (written, to avoid any issue with accent.. hmmm - written - maybe that was the problem) to the numpty on the big saw, who looked at the paper, then cut my carefully-chosen, non-warped ply board in half - nowhere near what was asked ... :evil:

    There's (hopefully) plenty of circulation for the fridge - if not, I'll stick one of my spare computer fans in there ...
     
  18. Andrew Prince

    Andrew Prince Well-Known Member

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    Gary,
    Could you not get some fairly light guage angle iron to make a frame? You could just drill holes in the angle iron and bolt together with some rubber spacers/washers between pieces to allow for some play and keep the rattles down. So no need to weld. You could even bolt some braces across the corners if you need to stiffen it further. The one plus of bolting something together is it would be removable in parts or in total. All you would need to do this would be a grinder (or something suitable to cut & trim the angle iron) and a drill.

    I think when you start going for 18mm board to try and get some structural strength, you're going to add a lot of weight for a barely adequate job. I would think that a light angle iron frame and thinner boards would be the same weight or lighter and would be significantly stronger (and take up less volume because there's less material involved).

    Just a thought :geek:

    Cheers,
     
  19. Jon Wildsmith

    Jon Wildsmith Super Moderator Supporter Guru I am in england

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    If you design it, including dimensions of individual pieces, then you'll probably find me or maybe Chris could glue it together for you. Most of the time involved in creating something like that is in designing it not, building it. If you supply plans with all the piece lengths etc worked out already your truck doesn't even need to be here to build it.
     
  20. Gary Stockton

    Gary Stockton Super Moderator Supporter I am in zimbabwe

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    That could be hysterically funny - the eiffel tower in the back of my truck!!

    Ok, I'll give it a go :D
     
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