1KZ-TE engine rebuild

[sae70]

That's insane that is Trev! I was stood not four foot away from you when that engine stopped due to the water ingress and can't believe that you got that kind of damage from water ingress on tick over! You weren't even driving along, but talking to us all out of you window. When you think that we spent an hour or more stripping it all down and you then drove it home!!! What a beast

 

[Trevor]

I suppose that shows what forces are going on inside the engine even at tick over. When you think of what could have failed, crankshaft, gudgeon pin or the piston itself then maybe Mr Toyota picked the right metal for the conrod as the likely fail point.

I am suprised that it drove 100 miles home with virtually no vibration, I looked at the bore today on Number 4 and no untoward signs which is encouraging. I will run a honing tool through all of them seeing as I have the opportunity and it makes sense to re ring the pistons and change the BEB's, again as I have the opportunity.

Good lump that 1KZ-TE.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

That's insane that is Trev! I was stood not four foot away from you when that engine stopped due to the water ingress and can't believe that you got that kind of damage from water ingress on tick over! You weren't even driving along, but talking to us all out of you window. When you think that we spent an hour or more stripping it all down and you then drove it home!!! What a beast

Ingested water into a 1 litre Suzuki engine---SJ 410---at just above tickover. Snapped a rod that then punched a hole through the block.

Roger

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Quality bearing shells from, for instance, Vandervell will be the equal of OE parts. The same goes for the piston rings. For safety I would have the other two conrods checked for straightness.

Roger

 

[silvercruiser]

Wow major surgery Trev. when my dad hydrolocked(spell) he's TD5, it bent two of the conrods but the diffrence was only 40 thou, when we got them out you couldn't even see a bend, but we put them on a engineers flat plate and they had twisted. so worth checking. Good luck with the rebuild.

 

[Trevor]

Next little job was to remove the "oilers" before I can run a deglazing tool through the bore.

I whipped these out with a 12mm socket.

Now it's ordering of bits,

Awaiting a quote from Toyota for

3 oil seals for the front axle
BEB's
Big End stretch bolts
Cylinder Head stretch bolts
Replacement bolt for the one I rounded off behind the cylinder head
Replacement rubber washer thing from the air intake pipework.

Independant garage for gasket set and piston rings

Milners for oils, oil filter, air filter, timing belt, tensioner and sump plug

Karl for 2 con rods

It will take a few days to get the bits and pieces together which hopefully will also give me enough time to shake off a kidney infection which is a tad painful, I'd rather not be crawling around the truck at the moment.

 

[sae70]

Don't forget to get a quote from Simon Holton for the Yota parts, he was cheaper than my local MD even with the postage

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/45097-Simon-Holton-Gen-Toyota-Parts

 

[silvercruiser]

Don't forget to get a quote from Simon Holton for the Yota parts, he was cheaper than my local MD even with the postage

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/45097-Simon-Holton-Gen-Toyota-Parts

Yeah i got a good price from him for my water pump

 

[frank rabbets]

The conrods must have their original caps. All four must be the same weight. I don't know the tolerance on these rods but that should be easy to google on a general search if not in the FSM. Also in the FSM it will tell you whether or not the numbers on the rods are for obtaining the correct sized shell, if so the crankshaft journals will also have a number so using the two you can order the right size. I always use plastigauge to check the running clearance. It's cheap, easy and foolproof. The bores MUST be glaze busted. This gives a matt finish to the cylider walls so that the new rings will wear down to fit the cylinder profile exactly whilst gradually polishing the bore so wear stops. If you don't glaze bust the bores the new rings will not wear to the cylinder profile and the engine can burn oil. When I did the 80 the Toyota shells came in the sizes I ordered.

You should be able to hire a glaze buster and use it in an electric drill.

Wish I was doing an engine again.
Frank

 

[Trevor]

@ Frank, the con rods are marked with a number 1 on the side face at the bottom and I've asked Karl if he can supply the same. The BEB's are Mark 3 on mine so easy enough to replace. The FSM talks about some marks on the crank and have lookup table to reference the correct BEB's, no such marks on my crank but not an issue as the BEB's are marked.

I had always intended to re hone the bores as it seemed the right thing to do, never knew why until now so thanks for that. My mate who works at my local garage is bringing one over for me to use.

 

[Trevor]

Part III

It's been a while since posting up, I've been busy working out where to get my bits from, getting cash together to carry on and generally getting my head round some of the technical aspects.

Simon Holton at Toyota has been incredibly patient and helpful with all sorts of parts queries and quotes and the parts list breaks down like this:-

Toyota

Conrod Bolts
Front crank oil seal
Front Diff oil seals x 3
Driveshaft snap rings
Injector seats and washers
Rear Quarter trim clips
Other oddments

Roughtrax

Timing belt
Tensioner
Pulley
Head Bolts

Milners

Oils
Air filter
Oil filter
Fuel Filter

AE Engine Parts (UK)

ACL BEB's

Independent Garage

Head Gasket Set
Piston Rings

As it has been a while since working on the truck and with the continued help of MrDelmonti (Ed) from the forum we cleaned up the mating surfaces of the engine block top, bottom and sump. with 1500 wet and dry, WD40, elbow grease, lots of tea and a few swear words. This is Ed and he's sitting on the Naughty Battery, he can only come down when he starts laughing at my jokes.







I needed to replace the bent conrod and even with discount, the Toyota price was still too much. I bought another partial block that still had the pistons and conrods in, the block was a known runner which had originally suffered with a knackered head and sitting in the garage of another forum member on here about 25 miles away.

I got this home and decided to pull all the pistons/conrods out and transplant into mine, after a closer look I decided to change 2 of the piston heads for my originals as mine where in better condition. The FSM talks about heating the piston heads to a certain temperature and then you can push the gudgeon pin out.

So while Mrs Trev was out I "borrowed" a saucepan and boiled the kettle, while that was boiling I removed the retaining clips holding the gudgeon pin in. You can just see in the bottom left of the picture the screwdriver prising the clip out from the hollow in the piston. If the ends of the clip are not at the hollow, use the end of a flat blade screwdriver on the end of the clip to move it along until it lines up. It takes a bit of force to get moving and be careful not to gouge any metal from the piston.



Once these are pried out, be warned they will ping for miles, I nearly got the cat twice.

So piston in saucepan and pour in the boiling water



After waiting for about 90 seconds and handling with a "borrowed" tea towel, lift the piston out and drain the hot water, then you can push the pin out really easily.





The gudgeon pins are matched to the piston heads according to the FSM, so I made sure that the correct pin got transferred with the correct piston head. Once the disassembly process was done I put the very hot pins in the sink with cold water and then put the piston head back in the saucepan to reheat and boiled up more water (the piston head doesn't need to lose too much temperature before it contracts to the point where you cant insert the pin)

So with a hot piston head and cooled gudgeon pin it was pretty easy to reassemble.

I had read a lot and seen on YouTube the need to check the piston ring end gap and file them if needed, my mate at the local garage said that they never do this and just fit the rings as they will be in spec. I decided to check anyways.

First thing I did was lube the bores with clean engine oil and squeeze the ring closed, insert into the bore to 120mm as detailed in the FSM and then use an old piston upside down to square the piston ring off.





Then using feeler gauges, check the end gap.



These pictures are not at the 120mm depth but for illustrative purposes, turns out they are all in spec and can be fitted as is, just like my mate said they would but I have peace of mind having done it myself.

The next task was to clean the piston tops with 1500 wet/dry and WD40, I still need to do the piston ring grooves but will be borrowing a piston ring tool to get the 2nd ring out.

Front axle was the next task, I thought it would be a good idea to change the oil seals and I had concerns that I might have broken the air pipe for the front difflock so wanted to check that out while it's off the truck.

Armed with these of we went



Split the casing and cleaned up the mating surfaces of old sealant.





Connected the airline and checked for leaks, all okay fortunately.



Applied new sealant



Put back together, and fit oil seals, decided to do the prop seal when its back on the truck.





After needing some advice from the forum, I replaced the injector seats and seals in the cylinder head. Seat goes into cylinder head, washer goes into seat with rounded profile to the top, then screw in injector and torque up.







Interesting that Haynes and FSM have different torque figures, Haynes say 54Nm and FSM 64Nm so I went with the FSM.



Finally torqued up the glow plugs

 

[mrdelmonti]

Just so you all know, I'm not normally a scruffy, shaggy looking bonnet monkey, that's purely just to make Trevor feel better about being "destroyer of conrods".

Happy it's making some progress again now.

 

[Trevor]

So tonight myself and "Bonnet Monkey" above have spent ages with broken piston rings, wet and dry and other tools to clean the pistons up ready for re ringing.

Don't think we've done a bad job (hopefully)

 

[Beau]

Just a word of warning trevor, be careful when torquing up the exhaust manifold main studs as they are known to break. The heat cycles it goes through along with age and rust means it's tensile strength weakens over time. The last thing you want is a broken stud stuck in the head. Hopefully you'll have no problems.

It's finally coming together! Looking good

 

[Ben]

Great update Trev.

Nice to see it all going back together.

Hoping to see some pics of Lil Blue in action at the next Lincomb.

 

[AndyCook]

Looks like a difficult job. But good progress.

 

[silvercruiser]

Well done, those pistons look lovely and clean. Your soon be back out playing in the brown stuff.

 

[Trevor]

Had a productive day.

Installed the new piston rings as per the FSM guide







I checked the piston ring clearances once fitted with feeler gauges and all was well.

Then came the fun part, deglazing the bores. I was a bit nervous to begin with but my mechanic mate dropped in for a cuppa so he supervised.





I lubricated the bores with engine oil and this was the result after two passes, the drill was running at a fairly slow speed whilst maintaining a steady up and down motion in the bore and never allowing the deglazing tool to stop in the bore itself. I.E keep it running when withdrawing.





I did one more pass and was advised not to take any more off, I cleaned the bores out with a rag and petrol. I then cleaned the crank journals in the same way before fitting each piston.

After installing the new BEBs, these were given a light coating of oil, as well as the cylinder bore to ease the piston and new rings in.

Using a smear of oil, I laid a piece of Plastigage onto the journal, using my old conrod bolts I torqued up the BEBs and then undid to check the clearances.







Finally refitting with the new conrod bolts and then cranked the engine over by hand to check for any binding, I did this procedure one piston at a time. This was to ensure that if any binding was felt then you would know which piston installation was causing the problem.







The only trouble I had installing the pistons was that the piston ring compressor, being made of thin metal, would sometimes slip into the bore a tiny bit and need adjusting to allow the actual ring to pass through. The piston top was gently tapped down with a wooden hammer handle and as soon as any resistance was felt, you could actually detect a slight change in the sound being made and this was the sign to stop and reset the compressor before carrying on. Gently gently is the way forward here.

Then it was a case of refitting the piston oilers, no photos I'm afraid but make absolutely sure that the locating pin at the end of the arm is actually locating in its receiving hole, do the bolt up to about three quarters and then get your hand up to the little arm and check it pushes into it's hole. If not, remove and check the end of the arm is straight, use some pliers and gently straighten and it will fit the second time you try.

This is a very satisfying sight for me.





All in tolerance and cranking over smoothly......nice.

Last job today was to refit the oil pickup pipework and the sump.

Cleaned the sump with a rag and lots of petrol.



If anyone is doing this with the engine in vehicle then I would recommend using a jack to support the bottom of the sump and give yourself about 3 inches gap between sump and block to attach the pipework. Start off by putting on the outside nut of the oil pickup pipe, this is easily reached by hand and then do up fully. This will give you enough thread for the second nut to be fitted to the stud on the other side of the union.

This was the only way I could get the second nut on by hand, by adopting a backward stance and hand through the chassis gap. You will be doing this by touch only so make sure you have a telescopic magnetic picking up tool in case you drop this into the sump.

You will need a 10mm Aviation spanner to reach this from the front of the sump to tighten, it's a PITA but is doable.





Now you can offer up the bolts for the front supporting legs. Be very careful not to crossthread these as I managed to do with the second one. The supporting legs are under a lot of torsion once located properly and this is why I got the second bolt in at the wrong angle and didn't hand tighten as much as I should have done.

The only tip I can offer up here is to thread some nylon rope around the second leg and out over the chassis leg to the side of the vehicle and have an assistant pull in various directions until the holes line up.

Instead of me then applying sealant to the underside of the block and bolt the sump into position, I now need to rethread the hole with 3 inches to play in. I am not taking this sump off again!!!

Off to a couple of well earned cold ones now.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

It's looking good.

I used to allow 10ft-lbs per litre for the starting torque on a freshly bored block. For a run in engine you could easily halve that figure.

Roger

 

[TonyP]

Great progress Trev, can't wait to see LB run again