1kz-te Rookie!

[Beau]

If the clutch packs are gone then I don't think you'll hear any noise. In my case, I didn't let it get as bad as yours before having the box re-built. If it is the clutches then replacing the trans fluid can actually make matters worse because the cleaner oil is harder for everything to grip. The problem really doesn't sound electrical and sounds more mechanical. And I would say the boxes are pretty bulletproof in general. I wish I could throw another suggestion of what it may be but it's looking like a box out job.

 

[EldoradoSAM]

I know nothing about automatics but reading your description of what happened prompted me to wonder how often you use your transfer box . Gearbox is not connected to the wheels if your transfer box fails . Have you drained that yet ?

Shayne I have not drained it yet but now that you mention it I will. And the transfer case was out few months back as I didn't have 4x4 because the chain was missing. So it was over hauled and the chain added.
I don't know if everything was done 100% accurate... But it did seem to work fine. (Then again I'm the Rookie)

 

[EldoradoSAM]

I’ve no idea Sam, maybe @Beau can throw some light on that one.
His experience sounds closest to yours. Fingers crossed it’s not your box. Worth analysing the atf for metal particles.

SC, I'm starting to think I should have it rebuilt. Either way I will have to take it down to check it out properly and that will cost... If it gets the rebuild then I know whats in there. Clutch packs/bands, whatever it is. Still have to drop it to confirm....Do you think i should go with a rebuild kit?
I was offered complete trans/transfer case that came out of a Hiace bus that was road driven.(not off-road)
What would you do?

 

[EldoradoSAM]

Drained the transfer case oil.. It looks awful. And I'm very surprised at the amount... Not sure but I really think there should of been more in there..

 

[StarCruiser]

I think you first need to identify what exactly is wrong. I’m no expert on 90s but if you can find out if the transfer box is ok then you know the engine is ok so the problem by process of elimination is in the auto box. Me, I’d go for the road driven box if it’s fully functioning and not too many miles. I also would be listening to Beau’s advice more than me as my info is generic and not 90 specific.

Albeit a bit low looking, that oil doesn’t look too bad to me from here. It would be grey and slime with metal particles in it. Put a magnet in the corner of a plastic bag and swirl it around in the oil. Any steel particles will show up.

 

[EldoradoSAM]

I think you first need to identify what exactly is wrong. I’m no expert on 90s but if you can find out if the transfer box is ok then you know the engine is ok so the problem by process of elimination is in the auto box. Me, I’d go for the road driven box if it’s fully functioning and not too many miles. I also would be listening to Beau’s advice more than me as my info is generic and not 90 specific.

Albeit a bit low looking, that oil doesn’t look too bad to me from here. It would be grey and slime with metal particles in it. Put a magnet in the corner of a plastic bag and swirl it around in the oil. Any steel particles will show up.

Ok SC Thanks. Ill post an update as soon as I have one. I had to sit and think of anything out of place when driving. And since I had the work done on the transfer case there has been one thing that caught my attention. Sometimes when accelerating from a stop, the engine check light would come on and you can feel a power drop. At which point i had to take my foot off the gas and let the RPM drop to a 1000 then the light would turn off and i could proceed. Might be the transfer case because that started after the box came down to add the chain.

 

[Shayne]

Bob Murphy where are you ? he's the forums tranfers box whiz kid .

I can't remember now but theres a small spring loaded ball bearing thats very easy to lose and sometimes gets stuck in the box , whether or not this might explain your symptoms i can't say but if theres no bits of metal in your drained transfer oil there is at least hope .

 

[StarCruiser]

Your check engine light could be a whole host of things. Needs to have the diagnostic done. @Beau is probably your man for shedding light on that. I doubt it has anything to do with the transfer case as there’s unlikely to be anything but a road speed sensor in there.

Easy items to check are intake pipework for splits or loose connections post turbo.

 

[Beau]

It's probably worth actually dropped the trans sump and searching for metal inside. There are 3 tiny round magnets on the bottom side of the sump and it will attract any loose metal shavings/wear. So even though you drained it, these pieces may not have flown out with the fluid. Won't cost anything either and if you see major wear/shavings you know that is your problem.

Now the transfer box doesn't have any kind of fluid related couplings so based on your symptoms I wouldn't say that's the problem. If the chain or something mechanical was at fault, then it probably wouldn't shift at all.

As with SC, probably cheaper and easier to go with a known good running box. These things are not known to fail unless the fluid gets contaminated, and they can take a fair bit of abuse once the fluid temps don't cook.

 

[EldoradoSAM]

Bob Murphy where are you ? he's the forums tranfers box whiz kid .

I can't remember now but there's a small spring loaded ball bearing thats very easy to lose and sometimes gets stuck in the box , whether or not this might explain your symptoms i can't say but if there's no bits of metal in your drained transfer oil there is at least hope .

Shayne, I know the ball bearings you are speaking of. The guy doing my transfer case a few months back dropped one in there and had the get a magnet to retrieve it. And I just did the magnet test @StarCruiser suggested but there was nothing in there.. I also checked the trans oil..A couple fine particles but nothing alarming.

 

[EldoradoSAM]

I think you first need to identify what exactly is wrong. I’m no expert on 90s but if you can find out if the transfer box is ok then you know the engine is ok so the problem by process of elimination is in the auto box. Me, I’d go for the road driven box if it’s fully functioning and not too many miles. I also would be listening to Beau’s advice more than me as my info is generic and not 90 specific.

Albeit a bit low looking, that oil doesn’t look too bad to me from here. It would be grey and slime with metal particles in it. Put a magnet in the corner of a plastic bag and swirl it around in the oil. Any steel particles will show up.

SC, I did some checks on that road driven box today. Guy says it's a 2wd box. Says I can have someone use the parts inside to rebuild mine...Then he says he has a 4wd one... Wants some pics of mine to confirm they match. I was told that my model is all time 4wd?
(1ke-te kzj95w-gkpst) @Beau ?
I've seen that grey and slime oil from the transfer case before. I change the oil a while back. And also there was no metal shavings in the transfer case oil.

 

[StarCruiser]

You certainly need to check you are replacing the box with an exact same box. Same engine, 4x4 with the same model number and anything else Beau comes up with.

 

[Beau]

Yup, all 90's are permanent 4wd. Now, I don't know if this is for sure, but I'm thinking once the Box code is identical alongside internal gear ratios, you might be able to bolt on your transfer case to the box and get it to work. However, because we can't confirm 100% whether it's the box or transfer case, your best bet is to eliminate all possibilities and change the entire unit over from a similar match.

I still think you should drop your current box sump and check internally for metal wear. At least then you can be more confident it's the box and not transfer case related.

 

[StarCruiser]

I wondered if that were possible but guessed the output would be to a UJ rather than to a transfer box but it’s possible they made the shaft the same I guess. Just remove the flange maybe? Dont know, further investigation would be needed on that one.

 

[EldoradoSAM]

Quick Update: Took out the ECU after doing some reading last night..Will also drop the sump .. And here's what I've found on ECU.... What do you guys think?

 

[StarCruiser]

Looks like a track that’s got warm and had the lacquer peel away. Can’t see the state of the track underneath but it looks to be intact.

What made you look at the ECU? Does the ECU control the gearbox or just the engine?

 

[EldoradoSAM]

Looks like a track that’s got warm and had the lacquer peel away. Can’t see the state of the track underneath but it looks to be intact.

What made you look at the ECU? Does the ECU control the gearbox or just the engine?

SC, I zoomed in a bit and it might not be all intact. Brings a lot of questions. Are there more bad components on that track? Or elsewhere on the board? What can cause this?
I looked there because, when I got the car back after that engine rebuild, I noticed the alternator 100A fuse was bridged.. So I bought one..Didn't install it right away.... Then that "bridge"burned a few weeks back.
Also after describing my issues to a few friends, one said it may not be the trans itself but a pressure solenoid under the trans..
Then i started googling...lol ,came across this. check the second post from.. BurnsTACP.
That made my inquiring mind want to know.... Then I read Eggpattern's comment and had to give it a shot..
I wanted to change the trans filter anyway. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a343f-shifting-issues.914141/page-2

 

[EldoradoSAM]

Yup, all 90's are permanent 4wd. Now, I don't know if this is for sure, but I'm thinking once the Box code is identical alongside internal gear ratios, you might be able to bolt on your transfer case to the box and get it to work. However, because we can't confirm 100% whether it's the box or transfer case, your best bet is to eliminate all possibilities and change the entire unit over from a similar match.

I still think you should drop your current box sump and check internally for metal wear. At least then you can be more confident it's the box and not transfer case related.

Thanks Beau, I don't think the box he has is a correct match. Over the phone he said he saw a stamp on it says 3080.. After looking that up I don't think it matches mine. I will be checking under the sump tomorrow.
What do you think of the ECU??

 

[StarCruiser]

SC, I zoomed in a bit and it might not be all intact. Brings a lot of questions. Are there more bad components on that track? Or elsewhere on the board? What can cause this?
I looked there because, when I got the car back after that engine rebuild, I noticed the alternator 100A fuse was bridged.. So I bought one..Didn't install it right away.... Then that "bridge"burned a few weeks back.
Also after describing my issues to a few friends, one said it may not be the trans itself but a pressure solenoid under the trans..
Then i started googling...lol ,came across this. check the second post from.. BurnsTACP.
That made my inquiring mind want to know.... Then I read Eggpattern's comment and had to give it a shot..
I wanted to change the trans filter anyway. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a343f-shifting-issues.914141/page-2

Ok, just to clarify here, before you had the engine rebuild the alternator 100A fuse wasnt bridged? When you got it back it was bridged? After a while the bridge fused (to open circuit)? You now have a new 100A fuse fitted which is intact.

If this is the case it sounds like there’s more going on here. I won’t yet say your trans is fine, you’ll probably need to confirm that by looking at the magnets.

I wonder what caused the fuse to blow in the first place. Might be worth asking your rebuilders. This makes me wonder if there is a fault with the alternator. Maybe the diode pack is breaking down or the regulator is pushing out too much voltage. Worth checking with a multimeter for DC voltage and AC voltage at the battery and at the alternator.

As for the ECU, gently scrub the track with a stiff toothbrush to remove any loose lacquer and inspect the track for breaks. It may be worth having the ECU tested if you have someone who can do this near you. We have ECU doctor in the UK but not sure what you have available where you are so checking it yourself might just sort it but really it needs testing to be sure.

Good work by the way.

 

[EldoradoSAM]

Ok, just to clarify here, before you had the engine rebuild the alternator 100A fuse wasnt bridged? When you got it back it was bridged? After a while the bridge fused (to open circuit)? You now have a new 100A fuse fitted which is intact.

If this is the case it sounds like there’s more going on here. I won’t yet say your trans is fine, you’ll probably need to confirm that by looking at the magnets.

I wonder what caused the fuse to blow in the first place. Might be worth asking your rebuilders. This makes me wonder if there is a fault with the alternator. Maybe the diode pack is breaking down or the regulator is pushing out too much voltage. Worth checking with a multimeter for DC voltage and AC voltage at the battery and at the alternator.

As for the ECU, gently scrub the track with a stiff toothbrush to remove any loose lacquer and inspect the track for breaks. It may be worth having the ECU tested if you have someone who can do this near you. We have ECU doctor in the UK but not sure what you have available where you are so checking it yourself might just sort it but really it needs testing to be sure.

Good work by the way.

No it was not bridged before the rebuild. Yes after a while it was an open circuit. Yes I installed a new 100A fuse.
I will be removing the pan to check for metal shavings. And also removing and testing solenoids. I don’t have a clue what caused the damage to the fuse and rebuilder has moved from area. Um, how do I test alternator and what voltage am I looking for? I do have a multimeter but I don’t think I should start the engine as I’ve drained trans and transfer case.
Sending ECU to the UK isn’t an option lol.
I spoke to a shop here that says they have one in stock for $300 usd. But I’ll have a better look at mine first. Google has proved to be a friend in this circumstance.
I’ll still inquire about someone testing it properly.