Battery Charger

TonyP

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Right, so following on from my atlernator issue, it's going to be a couple of days untill I can get it replaced, so I need a charger.... What's reasonable out there. Halfords have a few but not sure what's best.....

Something like this (linky) or is that overkill for the occational use?

Or is this better
 

Andrew Prince

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If you're going to keep the 120, probably a good idea to buy a decent charger as you might be using it a lot :mrgreen:

For occasional use, you could just buy a cheapo charger - that's what I have. Had a duff battery on my 80 once, only time it didn't work :lol:
 

Crispin

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I have a one you could use.
It's a bit of a knock-together but the output is good.

(also, your 12v bike one will work! ;))
 

Paul

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I tend to go for the ones that charge and then maintain as you can stick them on for a couple of days and if you forget them then no worries. Just remember that a fully discharged battery will only charge to about 50% on the car charging system so can be worthwhile charging up once a year. If you have two batteries you can charge from one charger with no problem, i usually buy the cheap 12" battery leads from Halfrauds and connect the two batteries off of the car (in parallel) and charge.
I have the industrial type too but not worth it for at home.
 
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TonyP

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Andrew Prince said:
If you're going to keep the 120, probably a good idea to buy a decent charger as you might be using it a lot :mrgreen:

For occasional use, you could just buy a cheapo charger - that's what I have. Had a duff battery on my 80 once, only time it didn't work :lol:

Oi cheeky! that's what I was thinking about a cheepo one, but end of the day when I buy these kind of things I always think about longer term... hmmm
 

TonyP

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Thanks Crispin, prob buy my own and just get done with it, the bike one does not have the clamps on it, has a permanent connection to he battery with a plug that you disconnect.

Out of interest (and my mind has just gone all ga ga) can you charge the battery whilst connected in the car?

I know my trickle charger for my bike can.
 

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Yes you can. So long as the carger is regulated and a propper trickle charger, it should be fine. They will never take your batteries and in turn, the whole system, over 13.8v while on trickle.
 

Andrew Prince

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TonyP said:
Oi cheeky! that's what I was thinking about a cheepo one, but end of the day when I buy these kind of things I always think about longer term... hmmm
Sorry, couldn't resist :cool:
 

TonyP

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Andrew Prince said:
Sorry, couldn't resist :cool:

:lol: no problem, I enjoy the piss take as much as anyone else.... Talking about that did your 80 get through it's MOT? :twisted:

Paul said:
Try these ones for size

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/searc ... any/page/1

You should be ok charging on the car with the domestic type unless the 120 has something strange on it that stops you?

I do like those, just want it today as I need to use the LC over the next few days... that's the problem with it being my daily drive
 

Paul

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They should have a branch nearby
 

TonyP

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Edmonton which is not a million miles away, but a ball ache to get to (on the A406).... or Peterborough which is a hour away from me... Looks like it's going to be a halfords special
 

Paul

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You know those halfords ones are known to be faulty, you use them once then have to take them back ;)
 

TonyP

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nice I forgot about that :lol:
 

Andrew Prince

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TonyP said:
:lol: no problem, I enjoy the piss take as much as anyone else.... Talking about that did your 80 get through it's MOT? :twisted:
Yes, it did! :mrgreen: The tester commented on the "holy" exhaust and the new custom fish-tail end to the pipe but everything else was fine. Amazingly my handbrake got through with no adjustment either! I thought they were going to pick me up on something, especially as the tester got mud/dust in eyes 3 or 4 times when prodding around underneath!
I'm very proud of my beast today :twisted:
 

TonyP

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Andrew Prince said:
Yes, it did! :mrgreen: The tester commented on the "holy" exhaust and the new custom fish-tail end to the pipe but everything else was fine. Amazingly my handbrake got through with no adjustment either! I thought they were going to pick me up on something, especially as the tester got mud/dust in eyes 3 or 4 times when prodding around underneath!
I'm very proud of my beast today :twisted:

Fantasic stuff.
 

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Andrew Prince said:
TonyP said:
especially as the tester got mud/dust in eyes 3 or 4 times when prodding around underneath!

Good plan actually, he was blinded so could not see any of the issues ;)

If that did work, I would have to have maced my tester with the landrover. :twisted:
 

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Paul said:
I tend to go for the ones that charge and then maintain as you can stick them on for a couple of days and if you forget them then no worries. Just remember that a fully discharged battery will only charge to about 50% on the car charging system so can be worthwhile charging up once a year. If you have two batteries you can charge from one charger with no problem, i usually buy the cheap 12" battery leads from Halfrauds and connect the two batteries off of the car (in parallel) and charge.
I have the industrial type too but not worth it for at home.


Just remember that a fully discharged battery will only charge to about 50% on the car charging system so can be worthwhile charging up once a year.

How do you work that one out Paul ?

Vehicle Alternator puts out 14.5 Volts @ 100 Amps, how can it only charge to 50% ?

Just watch with some chargers they put out 17 to 20 Volts, just so the voltage up with
a low amperage, but if you leave them on too long you will cook the battery.

The best way to charge a battery is a Regulated PSU rated at 13.8 Volts with capability of about 25/30 amps.

Steve
 

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Steve Wright said:
Just watch with some chargers they put out 17 to 20 Volts, just so the voltage up with
a low amperage, but if you leave them on too long you will cook the battery.
Those are the cheap and nasty ones and should be avoided at all costs. More so if you intend leaving it connected while still in the vehicle. No saying what will die when presented with that kind of voltage :(

Steve Wright said:
The best way to charge a battery is a Regulated PSU rated at 13.8 Volts with capability of about 25/30 amps.

Anything less than that would not be great for overnight or "rapid" charging as it would take to long. However, anything less than that is fine for trickle charging or keeping it on float while you are not using it, say during the winter or something.

it need not be a beast of a charger ;)
 

Paul

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Found this from some old notes i have from the past, i its basically that the alternator will only produce what is demanded of it rather than continuosly providing enough power to fully charge the battery.

Current demand and flow:
If you have an alternator that can produce 120 amps of current (max) and the the total current demand from the electrical accessories (including the battery) is only 20 amps, the alternator will only produce the necessary current (20 amps) to maintain the target voltage (which is determined by the alternator's internal voltage regulator). Remember that the alternator monitors the electrical system's voltage. If the voltage starts to fall below the target voltage (approximately 13.8 volts depending on the alternator's design), the alternator produces more current to keep the voltage up. When the demand for current is low, the full current capacity of the alternator is not used/produced (a 120 amp alternator does not continuously produce 120 amps unless there is a sufficient current draw).

Charging System Basics:
The electrical system in an automobile is said to be a 12 volt system, but this is slightly misleading. The charging system in most cars will generally produce a voltage between 13.5 and 14.4 volts while the engine is running. It has to generate more voltage than the battery's rated voltage to overcome the internal resistance of the battery. This may seem strange, but the current needed to recharge the battery would not flow at all if the charging system's output voltage was the same as the battery voltage. A greater difference of potential (voltage) between the battery's voltage and the alternator's output voltage will provide a faster charging rate.

As long as the engine is running, all of the power for the accessories is delivered by the alternator. The battery is actually a load on the charging system. The only time that the battery would supply power with the engine running is when the current capacity of the alternator is exceeded or when engine is at a very low idle.
 
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