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Big end shell replacement

I got my ACL off Karl Webster earlier in the year. still in the glovebox because I need to source some graphogen and nobody Ii tried so far stocks it. My truck is a '93 12v and just approaching 200k miles having bought it with 184k. It runs very sweet so although I deduct that they must have been already changed, I will do them next month before going to france.
 
You can assemble the BEB's with engine oil on the shells and journals. Once assembled, you can, if you want, disable the injector pump and crank the engine until the oil warning light goes out. Then re-connect and start the engine. Shell bearings do not require running in.

Roger
 
IRLGW said:
....I need to source some graphogen and nobody Ii tried so far stocks it....
Click to expand...
As Roger says, you will be fine fitting them with just engine oil. My personal preference is to use Graphogen because it is superb stuff.

There is plenty of Graphogen on eBay though :thumbup:
 
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IRLGW said:
I got my ACL off Karl Webster earlier in the year. still in the glovebox because I need to source some graphogen and nobody Ii tried so far stocks it. My truck is a '93 12v and just approaching 200k miles having bought it with 184k. It runs very sweet so although I deduct that they must have been already changed, I will do them next month before going to france.
Click to expand...

You definatley want to do them sooner rather than later, I was quite relaxed about doing mine. Glad that i did as you can see in the picture one or two was not long before certain destruction. I changed mine with the truck on 310.000 miles.
Also i changed mine as per Roger, with the engine oil and all seems ok to me.

Cheers, Mark. New Forest-20130504-00041.jpg
 
Mark I assume they were not ticking? I talked to a farmer who wrecked 2x12 valve engines and they blew up only a few minutes after the ticking started. I have not heard of a 24 valve failure and if I did I might be thinking it was a problem unrelated to the 12 valve problem e.g. oil level neglect. Frank
 
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No Frank, they weren't ticking. I had read about the problems with them on here and bought some from Karl, I also had them riding around in the boot for awhile before I tackled the job. Once I did it I kicked myself for not doing it sooner as it really does not take long to do. Especially seeing what the old ones came out like.

Cheers, Mark
 
Ahh I thought graphogen or similar was the actual method so in that case I get on to it sooner rather than later. For re sealing the sump then is toyota gloop a must or will any gasket sealant do?
 
,did mine with clean oil no issue been in for 2k now and I used normal sealant
 
I used general purpose silicone sealer on mine some 3 years ago and no leaks yet. The best way is to let the engine drain down completely after fitting the new shells so that you don't have oil running onto the bottom of the block. I left mine for 24 hours. Then wipe off with degreaser and leave for a bit to make sure no oil is still running then degrease again and go for it. I used grease as the oil had drained out of the crankshaft and oil gallery but engine oil will be OK if you start and idle until pressure builds up. Plenty of grease is safer just in case there is a problem. Or crank over without fuel solenoid connected but it may take it out of the batteries. 5mm bead of sealer is plenty. Frank
 
The silicone sealant is called RTV (room temperature vulcanising). As Frank said, a 5mm bead is fine. Just two points, the warmer it is, the faster it goes off, so clean the block surfaces---ALL the old gasket or goo must be removed---and the bead should entirely circle all the bolt holes.

Roger
 
I bought the big end bolts from toyota as they are stretch bolts. Then I had some loctite rtv in the workshop which I used to seal the sump on. Two thousand miles and no leaks so job done.
Cheers,Mark
 
Quick question - re the BEBs on 24v - is the torque setting and procedure the same - i.e. 37NM + 90 degrees? Apologies if this is covered elsewhere - didn't spot it...
 
I'm gonna do my 24v,its seen enough miles and I've no record of any servicing although I suspect it has been looked after. Better safe than sorry!?
 
No harm in doing it although also no evidence that the problems carried over to the 24 valve - the crank, etc are the same, but the BEBs were revised.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2
 
Hi Julian - I have a suspicious ticking from my 24v when hot (silent when cold), unable to ID it, so figured it would be worth doing....?
 
I had the ticking Dave on my 12v did the beb's & still it ticked, glad i changed them as they were in poor condition, my theory is it's to do with oil, if i use 15/40 it ticks 10/40 & it doesn't !!!!!!!!! answers on a postcard please, lol
 
Mine only started after an oil change, so hoping its nothing and may well be oil spec related, but figured for the want of changing them for new ACLs then its worth doing for peace of mind. Plan on keeping the truck for a few years, so its relatively cheap insurance...
 
When I did mine I re-assembled using a mix of one part engine oil,one part STP and one part molyslip. You can indeed by special 'assembly' compounds but I've rebuilt several engines over the years and always used this mix. All you need is something to hold or maintain the lubrication for the vital first few seconds of the initial startup.
 
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