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Big end shell replacement

Been there. I had a set that were good right up until the last set. And they were terrible. it's a very odd phenomenon. Doesn't account for the swarf though.
 
Agreed, fortunately the crank looked like it had just left the factory and all the plastigauge values were spot on.
 
As it's not a hard job to do and the new shells are relatively cheap, it's hard to believe anyone not doing theirs. Mine were in good shape, but finding them as bad as others on this post would make your hair stand on end!
 
As long as the plastigauge readings were OK they will be fine. I don't know if ACL bearings last as long as TOYO ones.

Frank
 
I got a set of ACL shells with the truck I bought the other week and will be fitting them soon. Where can I get the streach bolts from?
 
Mr T I think. Mine came in remarkably cheap considering, about a pound each IIRC.

I'm sure you'll get some better and more "local" offerings in a while Derek, in fact scroll back up this thread because all of this has been done to death, I think. :thumbup:
 
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I got a set of ACL shells with the truck I bought the other week and will be fitting them soon. Where can I get the streach bolts from?
Derek, don't ferk about...... fit genuine and forget :thumbup:
 
Mr T I think. Mine came in remarkably cheap considering, about a pound each IIRC.

I'm sure you'll get some better and more "local" offerings in a while Derek, in fact scroll back up this thread because all of this has been done to death, I think. :thumbup:

:lol: I've just checked the bill still in my bag and the bolts cost me the equivalent of £3.50 each! Sorry guys.:oops:
 
My thoughts:

I have just purchased bolts from my local Toyota dealer and they were £86. Shocking as they are worth about three quid but such is life. Ive gone for Milner bearings at £33 which I think should do me for the rest of the vehicles life expectancy as its on 177k now.

I wouldn't skimp on reusing stretch bolts unless i was in a pickle and then I would torque up to spec plus 90 degress and give them a bit of a confidence tweak for good measure. Its common sense mechanics really as you don't want to be significantly over or under torqued on any bearing but a 4.2td is a dirty great diesel lump not a highly strung formula 1 engine. :)

As they say your mileage may vary.

Don't leave your cambelts too long either if you offroad regularly as the plastic timing cover isn't water/mud/sand/grit proof and it is a really easy job. 20 minutes if you aren't changing the water pump and you dont need any special tools. I tend to do cambelts and tensioners quite often with a pump on every other change so they are still change more often than spec. My 80 was smoking and it turned out the diesel pump timing was a little bit out as the new belt didn't quite line up so the old one had stretched a bit.

Paul
 
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I hope your an active member for some time Paul and I'd be curious to see what the bearings are like in 50,000 miles time. Looking forward to opening an engine up that had acl bearing fitted to see how they look for signs of wear.
Nobody really knows what good or bad to put in these engines. One thing I would say is they are a finely bit engine though and the internals do need to be right.
 
My 1994 HDJ80 has clocked 165,000 miles. I need to get my BEB's done don't I? How much money should I put aside for the job (parts and labour?) Can anyone recommend an 80 Series specialist around Cardiff or South Wales please? Thanks in advance for your help as I'm obviously new to the Forum.
 
Hi Owen. Cost of the parts is around £150 (bolts and bearings) labour should be half a day in the garage. If you want the parts drop me a pm. Thanks
 
or save yourself a bundle of labour money and DIY. :think:

Put the money you would hand over to a garage into buying some decent tools.
They will never go to waste keeping a cruiser ticking along.

Plenty of info around on the web and guys on this forum happy to help out if stuck.
Bit messy but not difficult

Can recommend one of these to help separate the sump: http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=5245&cat=1087 .
This tool turns separating the sump into a breeze although I believe a kitchen knife can also be used.

Dave.
 
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