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Gearbox swap, info please

Well indeed thanks again everyone for all your advice, have decided to stick with the Auto after hours perusing websites to find a good manual alternative in the same condition for a similar price.
I will be fitting an oil & transmission cooler though.
Previously have had 3 Automatic cars, first many years ago, went wrong early on, second was the Audi Allroad, let me down suddenly with no reverse gear, 900 quid just to repair it.
Then I go & buy the 80 as a replacement
Words fail me!?. Blatetently I am the ideal candidate for Nut Job of the Year
 
I have to wonder if the people at Toyota had offered the late 24v 80 in a choice of manual or auto (in the UK), just how many manuals they'd have sold from new.

Not many I'd guess, thats why I (and Gav) have strived to build our own versions. I guess Toyota wanted to push the petrol version at that time but they were really high end price wise (more than the equivalent Range Rover) My petrol 80 had Chris Eubank as its first owner when he was world champion so I guess he wasn't bothered at the time about how much it cost to buy or run.

I've just worked out why my 24V import has diff locks and others don't, its a "Snow" version, it has a sticker on the inside of the bonnet stating so.
 
I've heard of the 'snow version' before but never any evidence of what it actually was. Neat.
 
Check to see if there is a small roller blond behind the grill and in front of the radiator. Mine has one until the Safari Intercooler was fitted. I think this was to aid warm up in snow areas.
 
Check to see if there is a small roller blond behind the grill and in front of the radiator. Mine has one until the Safari Intercooler was fitted. I think this was to aid warm up in snow areas.
Isnt It to stop mud getting into the radiator on mud crossings.
 
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It to stop mud getting into the radiator on mud crossings.

So it is to be sure, and to avoid the fan VC being damaged trying to displace water instead of air, with the added benefit of not having a vast amount of water distributed over the engine bay.
 
So it is to be sure, and to avoid the fan VC being damaged trying to displace water instead of air, with the added benefit of not having a vast amount of water distributed over the engine bay.

Wandering off topic here.

My rad blind was tatty so it went to the bin, there have been a number reasons cited for it being there. It has been said to stop mud/snow and aid engine warm up times.

I think it is better suited to stop blockage of the condenser and radiator when going through long grass? The grass seeds get drawn into the fins in the condenser and radiator and block them, then the engine starts to overheat. Along comes the hosepipe to flush them out, the seeds absorb the water and swell up, now the rad is blocked even more and the seeds are going nowhere. If I have been through long grass in the campo I use an air line to blow from the engine side, easy peasy when you have an electric engine cooling fan.

regards

Dave
 
Wandering off topic here.

My rad blind was tatty so it went to the bin, there have been a number reasons cited for it being there. It has been said to stop mud/snow and aid engine warm up times.

I think it is better suited to stop blockage of the condenser and radiator when going through long grass? The grass seeds get drawn into the fins in the condenser and radiator and block them, then the engine starts to overheat. Along comes the hosepipe to flush them out, the seeds absorb the water and swell up, now the rad is blocked even more and the seeds are going nowhere. If I have been through long grass in the campo I use an air line to blow from the engine side, easy peasy when you have an electric engine cooling fan.

regards

Dave
Interesting point there Dave. I wonder if you could reverse the engine cooling fan for a few minutes to blow the seeds out?
 
You can reverse the fan, but for an electric fan to work at it's best the blades have to be designed with the rotation direction in mind, so in reverse it would not be very effective.

Airline is much easier.

regards

Dave
 
Owners manual says the rad blind is to keep engine up to temperature on cold days. With global warming the 100 did not come with it lol.
 
Owners manual says the rad blind is to keep engine up to temperature on cold days. With global warming the 100 did not come with it lol.

I recall you mentioning this before Frank, given the size of the OE fan and the amount of air than can be pushed through the rad I doubt it was/is that effective? Engine temperature control is the job of the thermostat, I think stopping the fan going round would do more to assist warm up, in particular when stationary by not blowing cold air over the block?


regards

Dave
 
Its fairly common in colder climates and used to be a more common feature on older cars to keep the engine up to temperature in cold weather by fitting a blind or simply blocking part of the rad with cardboard Can't see something from a Snow edition being for mud or water myself.
 
Years back I do recall blocking rad areas thinking it helped the engine keep warm, but if the thermostat was working correctly it was no big deal. Putting a little more thinking time into the snow version, what if the blind was to stop snow blocking the radiator? If you block all the fins/tubes then the engine is bound to overheat if the snow packed against it hard enough?

Takes me back to the days of setting fires under the truck diesel tank in winter before winter grade fuel really worked, the engine radiators used to get impacted with snow making the engines run hot, perhaps it was a snow blind on the 80?

regards

Dave
 
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