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Land Cruiser 95 with 1KZ-TE -> Severe Engine issues

Makes sense using the hex as a guide!
Will make sure to mark the starting point

Please, If you don`t mind sharing where the screw is located, it will save me some guessing , cursing & wromgdiong. Have not played with this particular pump in yet (either)
I`d be genuinly much obliged Shayne
 
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The cap is on top of the spill control valve , pull it off and undo the lock nut to adjust the smaller nut pictured .

It's not an exact science i nudged mine up a little over and over again while modifying my engine over many months and eventually decided to turn it right down 3 full turns and start again , but the truck still ran though i had lost power at high rpm .

Others will tell a different story . It was Beau on here that showed me how to do it and he once ended up with a runaway engine because he had increased fuel to much .

I would disconnect the tunit before you start as its job is to interrupt messages to the pump telling it to add more fuel than the ecu would .
 
Thanks a bunch Shayne!

Spot on what I needed & as I suspected.

I will disconnect the tune for the sake of testing.
Yepp, I am aware of the danger with a runaway pump, don`t need THAT on top of everything else right now

Will let you all know how it goes once daylight breaks:)

On a side note; The cylhead has for a few reasons sort of been ruled out by me due to no cooling water loss nor any pressure buildup in the same.
I struggle to see how a cracked head would produce such sounds as in the clip.
Another bud of mine mentioned it could be a dropped inlet valve. I thoight it would drop through & onto the piston.. He said in his case the valve stem seal prevented it from going all down & the piston kept sending it up.
I doubt this is the case here...
Am I completely off track with my thinking on this??
 
That's out of my league i'm afraid , i'm just imagining what i would do if it was my truck and the simplest things should always be ruled out first . Can you imagine removing the engine and pulling it apart only to find there is nothing wrong with it :obscene-hanged:
 
In essence I do agree
I am past the stage where I want to tear down stuff just for kicks.
I am by no means afraid of the work or the challange. The timing is poor ;-)

It would be bad to rebuild the engine only to have it knocking once it is back in............:expressionless:
 
From the video, I'd agree with others and say it does sound like a main bearing has gone. But for one cheap check, disconnect the crank position sensor (located just below the starter motor) and see if the sound changes. It should. If it doesn't then change the sensor. The change in sound is very noticeable with it unplugged and it sounds very rough and knocks when it's unplugged.

I've had one scenario where I had a Volvo V70 for a short period, drove the car gingerly for a good couple months, and then one day was in a rush and gave it some umpp. A mile later it threw a mains bearing. It indicated to me that there was at least some previous bearing wear and most likely oil starvation at one point in it's life. This is where having an oil gauge may have just about saved you.
 
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Sounds like big ends to me too. You would certainly see it on strip down once the bearing caps were removed and the shells inspected. For replacements I'm not sure if Karl has ACL shells for a 1kzt.
 
Good Morning!

I will try the cranck sensor route just to have it ruled out.
Did the same with the TCV & it did indeed sound different.

I have one one occation in the past blown a con rod bearing (abit different situatuion overall but still resembeling)
It was the fluctuating oil gauge on tickover along with the sound that persuaded me to call the recovery truck.
I very much towards the conclusion that we have a bottom end case on this Cruiser motor too...

Someone who came by late yesterday mentioned it could be the cumbustion chamber assy having come loose.
I struggle greatly having to accept this to give the engine its bad knocking tone... Any thoughts??

Who is Karl & where does he stock his bearings?
I would consider using Terrain Tamer parts unless spesificly told not to.
Please advice :)
 
@karl webster who is a very helpful member on here stocks parts and has had ACL bearings on the shelf for the 80s. Not sure if he has anything for yours though but worth a try.

I've used terrain tamer in the past and they were OEM parts (front axle).

I would have thought it pretty much impossible for the combustion chamber to come loose. I'm not even sure if the 1kzt is direct or indirect injection so really my knowledge stops here.

Not sure if this would show up a big end bearing or just confuse the issue if it showed nothing but the following maybe worth a try.
Ideally with glow plugs out for ease of rotation, turn the engine over by hand and at every 90 degrees try turning it back a little and see if you can feel/hear the crank rocking between the top and bottom of a worn bearing.

I've not tried this myself and it may just be a waste of time but it may also help you decide whether to pull the engine out and drop the sump.
 
Thanks, once I know what I need I can reach out to Karl.

As for the chamber; At this point its brainstorming. Chamber is pressed in & locked by a pin.
That they become undone is news to me too...

Have tried the "turn back & forth" trick when I checked the timing. Can`t tell for certian.
IF the engine comes out, then I will certainly drop the oil pan for checks anyway. Regardsless of the top end status.

Peter
 
Thanks, once I know what I need I can reach out to Karl.

As for the chamber; At this point its brainstorming. Chamber is pressed in & locked by a pin.
That they become undone is news to me too...

Have tried the "turn back & forth" trick when I checked the timing. Can`t tell for certian.
IF the engine comes out, then I will certainly drop the oil pan for checks anyway. Regardsless of the top end status.

Peter
It looks like all the signposts point to engine out Peter. I think at that point I would be taking off the sump before anything else. I would have thought anything too end related would result in smoke of one colour or another from the exhaust.
 
I am leaning that way too StarCruiser.
As I can`t get the oil pan off without engine being freed from its surroundings (Land Rovers are better like that....)
the lump needs to be lifted out.

Agree-> TopEnd issue should produce smoke & similar.

Playing with the pump resulted in nothing btw.
 
If a big end has run you will probably have low oil pressure - but maybe not low enough to bring the oil light on. I would connect a pressure gauge and see what you are getting. I'm not sure where you would connect a gauge though, there must be a blanking plug on the oilways somewhere.

Secondly, that knock sounds a bit 'high pitched' to be a big end noise. I don't (thankfully) have a lot of experience of run big end bearings but the ones I have heard sound deeper than that. I would remove the Cam Box Cover and just check that all the tappet shims are still in place. If its had the nuts revved off it I suppose its possible that one has been dislodged - and its quicker than taking the motor out ;).

Bob.
 
You can get the sump off without lifting the engine, split the lower suspension and pop the tripod joints out of the axle, move front hub assembly/shocks to one side and tie out of the way. You can then unbolt and lift the front axle out of the vehicle, remove flywheel inspection plate and oil sender from sump which will allow you to get the sump off.

It's in the 1KZT engine build sticky, although I had issues accessing that today.
 
Both shot Big End & ConRods will result on low oil pressure.
Mu gauge is not mating with the oil plug so I did not force it. The oillight does not stay on when I start her up, even @ tickover.
Low oilpressure I have used in the past to detect a screwd bearing.

I am not sure I agree on the "high pitch".... I am no expert on this particular engine.
I have wrenched cars & engines on a daily basis for many moons now. Not many KZ-TE tbph
So I ask :)

The valve cover has been off & the cam with everything included has been inspected. Nothing wrong found on there.

Thanks Trevor!
I did have a poke around the bottom & the front diff. I recon that if I dropped the suspention & moved the front diff, then maybei I could get the pan freed. Others with way more experience told me not to go that route... just lift the lump clear.
A link would be appreciated Trevor :)

My bud who drove said he`d call me once he sorted a meeting. Lets see where this is heading

Will keep posting
 
I have no experience with this engine, but in my past I've had broken little end piston gugeon pins, delaminated main bearings, totally disappeared big end shells, and a broken crank, all of which made a similar sound as your video. The broken crank had snapped diagonally across one of the mains, and the engine ran fine apart from the noise!

After ruling out the simple stuff as Shane suggested, IMO you really need to pull the sump and check out the big ends, and/or the mains, depending on what you find, I'm afraid.

I note the sound is very rhythmical, which suggests a single big end bearing to me.
 
Thanks a bunch Trevor!

Clive; I have experienced similar engine failiures as those that You describe on other engines so I am fully aware of the fact "how bad" this may very well turn out to be.

Lying under the car when ideling, the sound is stronges on the free end. Which MAY suggest this is where the damage is. Then again; Sound does travel quite abit

As replacement engines (at least here) are all high milage engines, they do not represent the best option in terms of getting the beast back on the road. So a rebuild is likely.

I will pull the head this afternoon as it is the easiest bit to check. If that does not do it, the rest comes out.
Simple!

Will post pics
 
So lets see if this works!
Please excuse the rough video shot by my cellphone :-0 Especially the wind....


Although I don't know too much about these engines It sounds to me like the piston is kissing the head. This mey be caused by big end wear but it sounds more like a tap than a deeper knock to me. Failed BEB's have more of a rumble to them but this extended stroke caused by BEB excessive clearance can let the piston just touch the cylinder head face.
 
I will let You all know once I get my arse off this stool, empty my pot of brew & have the head off

Pics to follow nevertheless:pray:
 
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