Beau
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2011
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Not a good idea applying 12 volt to that solenoid, especially for more than a few seconds. That valve doesn't use anything more than 5 volts which the ECU controls, in a pulsation fashion. I kinda doubt the ECU would give up, they're generally pretty reliable but few have had caps pop and cause issues. To eliminate the ECU board, just remove it (behind the glovebox) and check the board.
It could be something else, but I'd say from what you've described so far that the solenoid is failing. Also, when you crank the engine does the tach register the RPM, it should be about 200-250. If not then the RPM sensor on the top of the pump has failed and THIS is also needed in order to start.
Regarding immobilizer, I can't be 100% sure but on the VAG cars, a wrong key/ not matched immobilizer will initially start the car and then turn off after a second or so. I would think maybe the cruiser would do something similar.
It could be something else, but I'd say from what you've described so far that the solenoid is failing. Also, when you crank the engine does the tach register the RPM, it should be about 200-250. If not then the RPM sensor on the top of the pump has failed and THIS is also needed in order to start.
Regarding immobilizer, I can't be 100% sure but on the VAG cars, a wrong key/ not matched immobilizer will initially start the car and then turn off after a second or so. I would think maybe the cruiser would do something similar.