LJ70 Build Thread!

[Gary820]

Console looks even better now it's coated

 

[froggy Steve]

youre in danger of becoming 'domesticated'! Lawn mower lol

 

[Craigmorley]

What clutch you put on it I've just brought new one. For 2.4 is it the same as 4runner motor.?? I'm looking at motor on Monday eve possibly leave deposit and hear it running and possibly drive

 

[clivehorridge]

I like overhead power points, Ben.

I used to have 2 in my garage, one at each end. Saves cable dragging over the bench and I had them on bungie elastics, so that they didn't hang too low. Reach up, connect, use, disconnect, and they're up and away!

 

[Craigmorley]

Hi Ben so you know if the 4runner 1kzt bell housing is the same as the hilux surf 1kzte bell housing?? Thanks

 

[Ben]

Console looks even better now it's coated

Thanks mate I'm really pleased with it.

youre in danger of becoming 'domesticated'! Lawn mower lol

I'm actually really enjoying having a garden!

I like overhead power points, Ben.

I used to have 2 in my garage, one at each end. Saves cable dragging over the bench and I had them on bungie elastics, so that they didn't hang too low. Reach up, connect, use, disconnect, and they're up and away!

Yeah their really handy arnt they, especially with a bench in the middle of the room.

Bungies are a good idea.

I did mean to have it cable tied to a piece of chain suspended from the roof, the same as the light. But the chain I bought got left in the trolley at the hardware store by mistake.

What clutch you put on it I've just brought new one. For 2.4 is it the same as 4runner motor.?? I'm looking at motor on Monday eve possibly leave deposit and hear it running and possibly drive

Afraid not, IIRC its bigger than the 2.4 one. I just bought a new clutch from Roughtrax when I fitted the engine.

One thing I regret not doing when the new engine went in was having the fly wheel machined! Mine must be a bit warped as when pulling away its a bit jumpy sometimes.

My recommendation to you would be to get a new clutch, machine the fly wheel and replace the rear main seal with a genuine one.

Having to replace any of those bits afterwards will require the removal of the gearbox and that isnt a particularly fun job!

Hi Ben so you know if the 4runner 1kzt bell housing is the same as the hilux surf 1kzte bell housing?? Thanks

No its not.

According to Toyodiy the only Hi-lux with the KZJ70 bell housing was the Hi-lux fitted with the 1KZ-T(E) engine. [TABLE="class: xref"]
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[Craigmorley]

Thanks for your replies Ben all very helpful as I'm going in blind here haha but engine all paid for and he's letting me have the bellhousing Aswell so should be here next week hopefully can't wait!! Yea I've ordered new clutch and seal. I can get flywheel bone across road in machine shop I hope. One more thing is can I use my original fuel filter housing/primer? And also the radiator cowl did is that the lj70 one? I'm going to order brand new kzj70 rad am ally one just wanted to no if I could use my lj70 radiator cowl ?? Thanks Ben ur the legend on this site! Thanks

 

[Ben]

Awesome!

Yes fuel filter and housing will be fine.

No the cowl wont fit the rad and you will need a cowl for the fan to do its job and keep the engine cool.

I ended up making one for mine. It wasnt too hard but on mine the fan is no where near center of the rad and that did complicate things slightly.

Another few things to consider.......................

Both engine mounts will need adjusting. Its not too hard to do, the pics of how I did mine are posted in the blog I posted the link to on the previous page.

The exhaust will need replacing/modifying to suit the new engine.

The electrics are reasonably straight forward but it would help massively if you've got the engine bay wiring loom out of the donor car.

Apart from that it should be reasonably straightforward.

 

[Ben]

So I finally got the center console finished!

I remembered to bring my electrical tools home from work.



Terminals, blue for single wire, yellow for the 2 wires (1 wire in and 1 piggy backing out to the other).



Crimped on and taped up.



12V cig socket and twin USB.





Screwed the console in place.





Fitted the rubber mat inserts over the fixing screws.





Pushed the fuse in the holder under the bonnet and the USB lit up a nice cool blue!





My netbook and I-pad both fit snugly in the box where they can be securely locked up.











My high lift jack still fits nicely behind the front seats.





All done!

I'm really pleased with it, its the perfect height!

The factory one is ridiculous its about a foot too low!









Just arranging a 4wd trip for Easter to the High Country!

Then I'm off to Tassie for a week.

And I'm also busy planning my Europe trip for July, got 5 weeks off work!

 

[Craigmorley]

Awesome!

Yes fuel filter and housing will be fine.

No the cowl wont fit the rad and you will need a cowl for the fan to do its job and keep the engine cool.

I ended up making one for mine. It wasnt too hard but on mine the fan is no where near center of the rad and that did complicate things slightly.

Another few things to consider.......................

Both engine mounts will need adjusting. Its not too hard to do, the pics of how I did mine are posted in the blog I posted the link to on the previous page.

The exhaust will need replacing/modifying to suit the new engine.

The electrics are reasonably straight forward but it would help massively if you've got the engine bay wiring loom out of the donor car.

Apart from that it should be reasonably straightforward.

Ok well I'll tackle exhaust obstacle later on and radiator cowl I'll have to find one that suits or does the job or could cut mine about and alter with some fibre glass with few moulds to get a good shape then paint it black hey. We'll see about that.

as for the wiring I haven't got any of that but j might just calm him see if he'll chuck it in with the engine for me.
Kzj70 rad fits same as 4runner fittings yeah?
Thanks Ben I'd love to come over there with my truck looks amazing out there!

 

[clivehorridge]

I like the red handle on the passenger side Ben, the ejector-seat grab handle I presume?

 

[Craigmorley]

Am I able to use my 2.4 down pipe or will I need the 4runner downpipe ? Thanks

 

[Ben]

Kzj70 rad fits same as 4runner fittings yeah?
Thanks Ben I'd love to come over there with my truck looks amazing out there!

The outlets are in a similar configuration but not exact! So KZJ70 rad hoses should work with the KZJ70 rad but not the 4-Runner.

I actually found on mine that the KZJ70 hoses wont work top and bottom with my KZJ70 rad, not sure if its because I'm running a bodylift but I could only get the top one to work. My bottom one is an FZJ80 top rad hose.

Fitting the wrong hoses/ones that are too stretched or pulling to one side can crack the solder around where the outlet fits to the radiator and cause leaks, thats what happened to me before I found and fitted the 80 series hose.

Am I able to use my 2.4 down pipe or will I need the 4runner downpipe ? Thanks

You should be able to, but I'm not 100% as I decided to change the route of my exhaust when I fitted the new engine.

One thing you will need is the exhaust flange off the downpipe from the donor vehicle as the flange on your 2.4 downpipe wont mate up to the 1KZ-T exhaust manifold.

I like the red handle on the passenger side Ben, the ejector-seat grab handle I presume?

View attachment 18051

Thats the shit spade!

 

[Ian Chuter]

Thats the shit spade! ??????
So you keep the Hi Lift jack behind you, out of the way, but the shit spade next to you

 

[Ben]

Yeah, I need the spade more than the Hi-lift!

 

[clivehorridge]

Yeah, I need the spade more than the Hi-lift!

That figures

 

[Ian Chuter]

Yeah, I need the spade more than the Hi-lift!

I'm with you all the way here Ben (not literally, obviously)

 

[Ben]

 

[Ben]

I did some more work on the Suzuki project.



I needed to finish mounting the rear A frame/top links.



First I wanted to weld on some chassis reinforcing plates made from 3mm steel.







I cut some 6mm thick angle.



Tacked them in place.











Drilled through the angle and bolted the A frame in place.





Cut some more angle and 6mm thick flat.



Drilled the flat.



Welded the 2 together.









Bolted them on and tacked them in position.







I wanted to remove the small chassis cross member which the fuel tank normally mounts to.



But first I wanted to add a cross member to get some strength back in the chassis.



Used a 51mm hole saw to drill through both chassis rails.







Cut a piece of tube and tacked it in place.







I could then cut the other cross member out.







I needed to finish the front spring towers next.

The passenger side one was ok.



But the drivers still needed finishing as I wasnt sure before whether or not I'd be using the original panhard rod mount or not.



Cut and folded some 3mm steel.



Tacked it in place.





Next I could add the 80 series bump stops.









I could then test the articulation with the forklift.























I needed to shorten a prop shaft for the front.



Ground the weld down.



And knocked the 2 sections apart.



Fitted it.





Then lifted it up again to check clearance.





Thats as far as I got on that project.

I've been keen to sort out some of the electrics on LJ for a while now and with the help of one of the auto electricians at work, I've now got all the bits we think we will need.



Since the 1KZ-T engine went in there has been wires that havent been connected as I didnt know where they needed to go to.





I tried connecting some of them when the engine went in and the oil pressure started working, then shot up and burnt out.



With the help of my factory service manual books the auto electrician identified a little box above the glove box, underneath the dash, which communicates with the instrument cluster and makes the gauges and warning lights work.



We opened it up.



And found some components were burnt out.





Thanks to Toyodiy's reverse search function I was able to discover that the exact same part is fitted to the much more common (down here) 75 series.





I also sourced an oil pressure sensor.





And an oil pressure switch.



With those parts we should now be able to get the oil pressure gauge, turbo lights and low oil warning lights working!

I can then tidy up the wiring loom and run everything neatly in split tubing.

All of the aftermarket wiring is now perfect thanks to the pre Simpson trip work I had done.



I finally made a start on the trolley for my welder.

Cut some steel.



Welded some of it together.



Cut a piece of 3mm steel for the top.



I allowed a gap around the edge for the weld.





Cut some 100mm x 6mm flat.



Welded them on the bottom (this is for the castors to bolt to)



Welded more bits together.





Joined the 2 U shaped frames to the base section.





I cut some 40mm long pieces of 75mm x 50mm box.



And welded them together.





Welded them in position.







I cut and folded some 2mm steel.



Cut out the end.



Laid the upturned trolley frame onto the 2mm and welded it in position.



Turned it the right way up and welded and bent some 20 x 3mm steel on.





The cut out in the top fitted a gas cylinder perfectly and the bent 20 x 3mm on the bottom kept the base of the cylinder from being pushed in towards the welder.







Cut some 40 x 5mm flat and 25mm tube.



Welded them together.



Clamped and welded it in position.



Test fitting the welder, tubes of filler rod and gas cylinder.













I need to add a chain to secure the cylinder, that will attach using a cut out like the one below and the other end will be bolted on.



I need to drill and bolt the castors on the bottom next.

Then I want to bring the welder home and start using it, then I can decide exactly where I want the hooks to be to hang the coiled up earth lead, torch, foot peddle and any other custom touches I want to add.

Then I will get it powder coated the same blue as the work bench.

 

[Edward Moyse]

Amazing work as usual Ben. Just wondering about that rear suspension geometry - aren't the arcs described by the propshaft and the arms you welded closer to the rear going to move in arcs with different radii? What stops the propshaft pushing against the real axel?


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